Project "Armageddon" Quigley E250

heres a old add
 

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baggednissan said:
Those are Eagle wheels
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I think you nailed it...series 121.
Can't believe you found that. I think mine might be a satin version. Thanks

Edit; Actually as some mentioned I think they are dodge sport wheels from circa 2000.
Anyway, enough of that....
 

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I had a set of those in the late 90's on you guessed it a nissan hardbody my 2 out of like 20 of those trucks
It's strange how you remember stuff like that but don't ask me what I had for supper Wednesdays:laughing:
 
I have several ambulances that body style junked and a complete 3/4 van 2x4 that ran and drove when i bought it several years ago. I think it might have the same engine set up in it. I should have about any part you need except the 4x4 van parts. I have several 4x4 pu around that model. But i am located in Harlan, Ky.
 
LT1JEEP said:
I have several ambulances that body style junked and a complete 3/4 van 2x4 that ran and drove when i bought it several years ago. I think it might have the same engine set up in it. I should have about any part you need except the 4x4 van parts. I have several 4x4 pu around that model. But i am located in Harlan, Ky.
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Cool. I'll keep you in mind. Main thing I'll need if I get it running and driving is a doghouse to cover the engine inside. Most everything else is just maintenance items.
Thanks, Daniel
 
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Just finished re-installing the AC,PS pump, crankshaft pulley and belts.
The new carb from National arrived and here it is. I have a couple questions if anyone knows.
1) After installing carb should I use a small funnel and ad a few ounces of fuel to the bowl? There are two bowls so do I ad fuel to both? I've seen some people do the above so mechanical pump has time to get fuel from tank...
2) this carb is nearly identical to mine. Only difference's I see are the bottom plate of carb has access to adjust 4 screws on corners. Mine had been covered by factory but someone broke the 2 on front side of carb open for adjusting.
Also, this carb has 2 tubes. 1 to top of each bowl. My question is what are these for? Mine has two plugged holes but no pipe/tube.
I'm thinking the carb by National looks pretty good.
 

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Thanks. From what I can tell they went to a canister when it had all the emissions etc.

Hopefully after mounting carb and tank this thing will come alive.
 
This was a "why'd I buy this day."
This morning I was looking forward to finally getting it running....nope
I installed the new carb yesterday so today was Install gas tank day....ad fuel and fire her up.
I got the tank installed. It went ok but might have some crap in my ear that fell from the frame.
Basically, Fuel just wouldn't come to the carb. After all sorts of hoping it would I took off the mechanical pumps inlet hose and there was a.bit of fuel. I then ran a piece of fuel line from the pump nipple to a jug with gas. I cranked it for about 15 seconds 3-4 times and it drew nothing from the jug.
I'm assuming I need a new pump?
It did sit for 18yrs. Did I diagnose it ok?
Thanks
 
hunterdan said:
Basically, Fuel just wouldn't come to the carb. After all sorts of hoping it would I took off the mechanical pumps inlet hose and there was a.bit of fuel. I then ran a piece of fuel line from the pump nipple to a jug with gas. I cranked it for about 15 seconds 3-4 times and it drew nothing from the jug.
I'm assuming I need a new pump?
It did sit for 18yrs. Did I diagnose it ok?
Thanks
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Yesā€¦ That is the right way to diagnose the fuel pump. I had the same issue and had to replace the fuel pump on my old Buick in March since it had been sitting in a garage untouched for about five years.
Once I replaced the pump, it could empty a 1 L bottle in no time flat
 
braxton357 said:
Email Holley tell them you have a stock 351w in a van and want drive it down the highway, then spent $400 on a new one, this is the only way you are going to get it driving worth a shit I promise you.
Chock the wheels then get under the van, one of the arms on the side of the trans goes to your throttle linkage on the carb hopefully still and is the kickdown, the other is your gear selector. Pull the linkage off the selector arm and move it out of park manually. It's possible the pawl is rusted to the parking gear after sitting so long. You're going to need to pull the trans pan anyway now would be a good time
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Well I can't say you didn't warn me.
Today I installed the new mechanical fuel pump and the oil pressure switch while there.
It fixed my fuel problem and the van is now running really well.
While admiring it running and checking for leaks...I found one. It's leaking at the transfer tube where it enters the front bowl. From what I can find I believe it's an o ring.
After some reading, some say if it's a new gasket to just remove the front bowl and re install the tube making sure to seat the o ring. Others say it will tear the gasket.
View attachment 409267
So how do y'all vote?
Pull the bowl and fix the leak?
Send carb back and let National carb fix it?
 
hunterdan said:
Well I can't say you didn't warn me.
Today I installed the new mechanical fuel pump and the oil pressure switch while there.
It fixed my fuel problem and the van is now running really well.
While admiring it running and checking for leaks...I found one. It's leaking at the transfer tube where it enters the front bowl. From what I can find I believe it's an o ring.
After some reading, some say if it's a new gasket to just remove the front bowl and re install the tube making sure to seat the o ring. Others say it will tear the gasket.
View attachment 409267
So how do y'all vote?
Pull the bowl and fix the leak?
Send carb back and let National carb fix it?
Click to expand...
After looking closely where transfer tube goes into front bowl I could see some o ring hanging out. Lol
I took the tube loose to inspect and found it is split. I went to AZ and advance with no luck. I guess I'll get carb company to send me a couple...
 

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hunterdan said:
After looking closely where transfer tube goes into front bowl I could see some o ring hanging out. Lol
I took the tube loose to inspect and found it is split. I went to AZ and advance with no luck. I guess I'll get carb company to send me a couple...
Click to expand...
They should carry o ring assortment kits
 
Update:
It's running good and I just installed a set of 285/75/16 AT's on it.
Now I'm working on getting the shifter out of park.
It's and 86 and from what I've read it doesn't have anything to do with brake lights or electrical. It's all mechanical.
I did just install a ignition because I had no key. I was hoping that would resolve the shifter issue but it didn't.
Any idea what the problem could be?
Shifter will pull back but won't budge down at all.
Thanks
 
Monkeynono said:
Didn't they have some rod that attached to the lock cylinder that when the key is turned then you can move the shifter?
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There is a rod that lays on top of the column. It moves up and down as I turn the ignition forward and back.
When I open the hood I can see where the linkage starts at the column as it comes through the firewall. Maybe it's binding right there at that collar. Mine is a bit rusty but I've never had a vehicle have a problem in that area. All the linkage is a bit rusty but I've been hitting it with PB blaster every few days and nothing looks bound by rust etc.
 
hunterdan said:
Update:
It's running good and I just installed a set of 285/75/16 AT's on it.
Now I'm working on getting the shifter out of park.
It's and 86 and from what I've read it doesn't have anything to do with brake lights or electrical. It's all mechanical.
I did just install a ignition because I had no key. I was hoping that would resolve the shifter issue but it didn't.
Any idea what the problem could be?
Shifter will pull back but won't budge down at all.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Iā€™d get under it. Unhook the linkage and see if the trans rod is Stuck
 
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