Project MyCorona

Buffy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Location
Burlington, NC
Well I was cruising CracksList yesterday and came across a very nice looking 2000 XJ Sport with the 4.0L engine. It is rust free and with some minor body dings here and there. I got it from the second owner and is still very original. The engine has a rod knocking so a new engine will be in order. I think I will just buy a crate engine and swap it out and will probably go for a trans rebuild/replace while it is out. Also thinking about a 3 maybe 4 inch lift and go for about a 31” to 33” tire. I am new to these things so not sure what’s available but I know it’s a ton. Feel free to share words of wisdom or suggestions. The best part is I picked it up for $700.00. :cool::D

Now for some pictures:

8022ef3c99824a4695127c69ddcd5c93.jpeg


d64fd22ffc6c454994ee64eb52c11e75.jpeg


7d00ca4873a640c4856f89e30ce1f994.jpeg


687156aa9cf44a738837cf92a24c1d4c.jpeg


1050a5f95ce84e53956f8eb4b226f25c.jpeg
 
Wow nice jeep. I remember when mine was that clean. I would recommend the Rubicon express super ride 3.5 kit with the full leaf packs.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
 
skyhighZJ said:
The rod knock may be a cracked flex plate unless there is obvious sign of a true rod issue (lose of oil pressure etc.). Automatic cherokees are notorious for cracking the flex plate around the bolt holes to the crank shaft and sound very similar to a rod knock.
Click to expand...

this may be the case as the engine revs very smooth. Other than the knocking sound the engine runs great. The owner never said it ran hot or anything like that.
 
It’s easier to drop the trans and check than pull the engine so maybe smart to just drop the trans/t-case and scope it out before going off the deep end. The 4.0/AW4 is a stout combo. I wouldn’t throw the wallet at it if you don’t have to. Last XJ I had was at 445,xxx and still wheeling strong with some simple maintenance items to keep it happy. If you want to do a “soft” rebuild (gaskets, timing set, oil pump) that might be an option though to ensure more years of service. About the biggest issue with the AW4 I ever had was over heating. I replaced the pump and seals added a remote cooler and never hand another problem.
As noted, put frame stiffeners on it as one of the first upgrades!
-Steering box stiffener/reinforcement plate.
-Lift
-Tires
-Upgrade axle components accordingly.
 
I see several companies offering the frame stiffeners. Is there one company that is better than the others? I saw a “complete” kit that looked like it covered cross members the works. I think I would only need to worry with the rails, I hadn’t seen anyone else mentioning the other areas.
 
I talked with the owner again when we met to notarized the title. He says his son was told by a mechanic that there was coolant in the oil. Not sure how they determined that but will drain the oil and see what I see before i make any decisions.

What company would you guys go with for the frame plates? Steering box plate?
 
I used JCR. Not that they were any better but they’re from Michigan and I gotta support my home State Lol. I did miss and fronts. Used the JCR steering box brace too.
 
I used Ruffstuff for the frame on my sons but they were a bit hard to get on correctly. The Iron Rock Off Road parts he bought later seemed very well made.
 
Nevermind what everybody else said.... Stiffen the frame up, pull that crapped out 4.0 out, and do an LS swap and a 5 speed :D
 
Nice xj! As to frame stiffeners the Iron Rock Off-road stiffeners IMO are the best design because they aren’t crazy thick to where they add unnecessary weight and they wrap underneath the unibody in more than just the vulnerable areas which really helps keep the rails from twisting. If you plate it, plate the whole thing from bumper to bumper. There can be issues with the unibody cracking at the edge of the welds where the stiffeners end. And listen to the others about doing stiffeners before you ever wheel. I didn’t do that and I’m going to hate life when I install a set this fall.
 
Well I verified the engine is definitely toast. Will probably go with a crate motor. S&J Motors has one with a 7 year 100k mile warranty for about $2200.00 after all the dust settles.
 
I’ve found a TJ Rubicon rear Dana 44 for sale. They are proud of it for sure but I was told TJ axles were highly sought after. Is the $2400.00 asking price too much? 4:10 gears and locker?
 
So I’ve been advised to not waist my time putting a locker in the Dana 35 or really spending the money on it. Specking out an axle at ECG is bumping $3,500, the Rubicon axle is $2,400. What is an affordable option? The Rubicon axle seems cheap compared to new. This will not be a hard core wheeler but not of an occasional trip with the wife. I have a 9 inch at the shop but it would need to be narrowed. Looking for some options, I am only going to be running 33s.
 
Buffy said:
So I’ve been advised to not waist my time putting a locker in the Dana 35 or really spending the money on it. Specking out an axle at ECG is bumping $3,500, the Rubicon axle is $2,400. What is an affordable option? The Rubicon axle seems cheap compared to new. This will not be a hard core wheeler but not of an occasional trip with the wife. I have a 9 inch at the shop but it would need to be narrowed. Looking for some options, I am only going to be running 33s.
Click to expand...

Get a 8.8 ford axle . Similar widths( add 3/4 "wheel spacers), same bolt pattern. Fairly tough, and easily found cheap.
 
Ford explorer 8.8s were available with 4.10 gears and are a very easy swap. Also, 4 cylinder TJs with a manual transmission had a 4.10 dana 30 front that are bolt in for an XJ. That will allow you to sell your running gear without having to shell out for regearing and rebracketing. The Dana 30 front will be fine with 33s or even reasonable use on 35s. The 8.8 will be good to go with 33s or 35s.
 
Dylan W. said:
Get a 8.8 ford axle . Similar widths( add 3/4 "wheel spacers), same bolt pattern. Fairly tough, and easily found cheap.
Click to expand...

This or find an 8.25 out of an XJ/MJ that can swap in.
 
Back
Top