Project - No Ducks Givin' - A done right (for me) CJ Buggy

How bad am I fucking myself if my pan hard is shorter then my drag link? The angles are identical and they are parallel from front and top. My sharpy in a compass drawing says the bump steer is very minimal but all I've ever had was "SAME LENGHT" beat into my head. Is it one of those on paper its going to bump steer but in real world its not going to be notacble? Or am I going to cuss every time I hit a speed bump at the mall and its going to break my wrist?

Not going for "high" speed but want to be comfortable on the roads.

Thoughts?

This is at ride height with about 7" up and down from there. It will have hydro assist.

20241008_134312.jpg
 
rswords said:
How bad am I fucking myself if my pan hard is shorter then my drag link? The angles are identical and they are parallel from front and top. My sharpy in a compass drawing says the bump steer is very minimal but all I've ever had was "SAME LENGHT" beat into my head. Is it one of those on paper its going to bump steer but in real world its not going to be notacble? Or am I going to cuss every time I hit a speed bump at the mall and its going to break my wrist?

Not going for "high" speed but want to be comfortable on the roads.

Thoughts?

This is at ride height with about 7" up and down from there. It will have hydro assist.

View attachment 425834
Click to expand...

My LJ has “1 ton” aftermarket steering. The angles are really close but the track bar is probably 3-5” shorter than the drag link. It’s drivable but it definitely bumpsteers.
 
rswords said:
That's good to know.
How close to level are the bars?
Click to expand...
IMG_0073.jpeg


Not a great picture. They’re not level, but are very close to parallel with each other. The difference in length causes the bump steer. This will all be taken out eventually when I do the ton swap.

Just get them as close as you possibly can to the same length and get them to parallel as you can to each other and it will be ok.
 
Picked up a good 5.3 with a stage 1 truck cam for this project.
20241012_134328.jpg



Then the Daughter was sick today so i stayed home with her. Figured I'd strip my factory harness for the 5.3 down.... she just wanted to lay on the couch and have me close so i figured id just do it in the living room.... man what a bad idea that was. But it's stripped and just needs some wire loom.

20241015_170312.jpg

20241015_185358.jpg
 
Took the day off work today to run some errands, go to the DR and spent the afternoon working on the juggy.

Added some front recovery points, and started getting the body mounted to the frame.

20241017_161215.jpg

20241017_161231.jpg

20241017_161158.jpg



So my sliders at my rockers are 1.75x.120 wall. I have some of the ruffstuff stiffener things and I also have some 1.5" .120 wall tube. I need to slug the ends of it anyway to attach it to the frame in the rear and front, thinking of just doubling up for .250 wall thickness total.

20241017_161142.jpg
 
Psssst, not sure if Warn still sells these , but I've never regretted this purchase. they're a little heavy but damn near indestructible (.250" steel ), lots of attachment points both on the side as well as underneath , stylish too
Screenshot 2024-10-18 at 4.19.40 PM.png
 
1980CJ7 said:
Psssst, not sure if Warn still sells these , but I've never regretted this purchase. they're a little heavy but damn near indestructible (.250" steel ), lots of attachment points both on the side as well as underneath , stylish too
View attachment 426436
Click to expand...

I have some.plate on the way to do something similar. I have some spacers in place between the rail amd body right now
 
BTW, I like that body mount you fabbed up, looks like those could serve as roll bar supports too
 
Another lunch another hour.... Made an upper link bracket for the front need to mount the rad and make sure it all clears.
20241023_132610.jpg

20241023_132615.jpg


Got a pair of Fox 2x3 bumps cans and mounts for the front thanks to some help from Cameron @ Poly Performance. He's on the board I think.
20241023_082627.jpg


Also picked up a set ok Yukon shafts and super joints for the 60. Have some Yukon hardcore hubs on the way.
IMG_20241023_113503.jpg

IMG_20241023_113457.jpg
 
If anyone wants to know a LS, TH350, and 203/205 doubler fit in a Goat built Subframe.... with some minor cutting and a shoe horn... Still need to add a tail support the the 205.

Next is pull the body and drivetrain, re-seal the cases, rebuild the tranny add some supports/tube clean up the fab on the chassis, blast and paint then start the top side.

20241024_163325.jpg
20241024_170312.jpg
20241024_142311.jpg
20241024_143045.jpg
 
Had my partner in crime today so didn't get alot done but she did want to go to the shop some.

After watching a new Disney princess movie.... the red girl is :smokin:

All I really did was replace the link brackets for the upper links in the axle side to have vertical bolts then flexed it out a bit. 12" shocks are going to be PLENTY in the rear.

I need to work on my links a bit to get the pinion pointed up a bit more. It's 30-35* and 30" long at droop right now. (Didn't pull a string so just eyeballing the angle finder)

20241027_130017.jpg
 
Back
Top