Project Sh*tShow

NCJeeplover said:
I'm waiting on someone to develop a kit that retrofits an electronic parking brake caliper to a 14 bolt. I've talked to Brennan Metcalf about making a kit (he makes a kit for early jeep dana 44's Electric Emergency Brake ( EEBrake ) Rear Bracket Kit, 41-75+ Jeep), but he said it was a low priority. I know f150's use an electronic caliper with a vented rotor.
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Ford does use an electronic ebrake but their rotor thickness is much smaller than the typical chevy rotors that are used for disk brake swaps. Your comment here now has me hunting to see if I can find another OEM that uses electronic ebrakes with a thicker rotor.
 
Wilwood makes some that will fit the Chevy rotor but they are $370 each and it’s only an ebrake so you would still need a standard caliper. Brackets for them could easily be made since they give all the dimensions of them
 
adamk said:
Ford does use an electronic ebrake but their rotor thickness is much smaller than the typical chevy rotors that are used for disk brake swaps. Your comment here now has me hunting to see if I can find another OEM that uses electronic ebrakes with a thicker rotor.
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I put in some effort searching and didn’t find much. Some people looked into Tesla parking brakes or the wilwood kit. You’re right caliper thickness becomes the primary issue. I am either setting up the OEM disc sterling parking brake or a np205 mounted parking brake.
 
NickMaul said:
I put in some effort searching and didn’t find much. Some people looked into Tesla parking brakes or the wilwood kit. You’re right caliper thickness becomes the primary issue. I am either setting up the OEM disc sterling parking brake or a np205 mounted parking brake.
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The 205 mounted parking brake would be much simpler since the rotor thickness doesn't need to be all that much. I'm still searching because this concept really intrigues me for some reason (plus I need a parking/ebrake still on my rig)
 
so the 2020 GM HD trucks all supposedly have electronic parking brakes. The rear rotors on those trucks look to the be right thickness, but they are also hat in drum style. I cant find any pictures of the ebrake assembly to understand if it is electronic drums or an ebrake caliper. Google doesnt seem to provide much value other than people having issues with them.
 
adamk said:
The 205 mounted parking brake would be much simpler since the rotor thickness doesn't need to be all that much. I'm still searching because this concept really intrigues me for some reason (plus I need a parking/ebrake still on my rig)
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It would be nice to know how complex the wiring part of the electric parking brake is. A lot of the kits and retro fit articles still have people paying $$$ just for the controller. I was hoping you could just have a 3 position momentary 12v switch to clamp or release the caliper. Might have to take a leap of faith and just order one off of eBay and tinker with it.
 
NickMaul said:
It would be nice to know how complex the wiring part of the electric parking brake is. A lot of the kits and retro fit articles still have people paying $$$ just for the controller. I was hoping you could just have a 3 position momentary 12v switch to clamp or release the caliper. Might have to take a leap of faith and just order one off of eBay and tinker with it.
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Do it and report back.

@NCJeeplover Sorry to hijack your thread
 
NickMaul said:
It would be nice to know how complex the wiring part of the electric parking brake is. A lot of the kits and retro fit articles still have people paying $$$ just for the controller.
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In the above link, Brennan kinda describes a little bit of how it works....

"In its most simple form, the parking brake motor is just a 12V motor that is reversed by swapping polarity. One direction makes makes the park brake function go on. The opposite direction makes the park brake function go off.

The park brake motor only needs to be released to the point that the rotor is free to move. This typically only takes a second or two of motor activation.

The clamping force is determined by the amperage to the motor. The factory control system uses a current limiting driver for this. A control system in its simplest form can use something like a DPDT momentary switch to control both motor direction AND both motors at the same time. My general theory for controlling the motors would be to use a auto-resetting breaker to set the clamping force at say ~10amps per motor. The release side of the motor circuit would use a ~15amp per motor circuit to ensure that you always have more power to release the motor than you do to activate the parking brake. This bias can be adjusted based on if both caliper motors are wired together, or if they can be activated separately."
 
Not much "work" to report, but it is now titled, registered, and insured so it kinda street legal.... If ypu disregard the lack of fenders and seat belts. Just trying to figure out a rough running issue. Code 42 will pop up along with another one about VSS.

Also I have been going back and forth about the rear suspension. I am on the fence about leaves... I am considering 4 linking it (more correctly have it done) any guess as to cost vs gains? The current plan is to kinda daily it, my drive to work is only 12miles.
 
Most definitely link the back. There's atleast a dozen or more companies that offer universal 4 link kits now. The improvement in ride quality, handling, power transfer, braking, etc make it all very worth it. And one less thing to worry about.
 
Got the rear floor closed up if only temporary. I used horse stall mat, worked really well. Replaced the front locking hubs. Then promptly drove it into town stopping at my LGS and Ingles.

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You road trip ready yet?
 
Got the shocks mounted.

I am kinda okay with how they came out... I mean they work, made driveability 1000% better.

Next MAJOR ISSUE is the rear driveshaft, with the height and length of the wheelbase it bangs on the yoke under decel so I need switch to a cv style and turn the pinion up.
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So after almost 2years of this thing being in the jeep and the 20years in the blazer I think the motor has finally failed. Well maybe, after get back from town I noticed the temp was climbing and the fans weren't helping and there was some bubbling from the heater.

The coolant smells funny and the rad is pretty gunked up inside so I am wondering if the headgasket failed (going to dive into that tomorrow)

My question to the collective is... fix the tbi 5.7 (cheapest) or save up and swap in an LS? If keeping the sbc do I throw any "performance" parts on it? If LS swap which one? Is there only certain ones that will mate upnto a SM465?
 
What is the general consensus down here on inner fenders? (I came from mud where it is important in keeping water and mud out) The 40" are hitting. Most high clearance fenders remove the inner.
 
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