Project Sloan 93 yj

Atlas shifter mod front is forked rear is round
 

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Exhaust in! You don’t realize how many spots you didn’t get paint on until it’s on a lift, gonna switch to brushwork for the rest of this project

Mason muffler came in under quote and the results are awesome
 

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Got a 2 speed fan, high and low. Planning to run a thermostat switch with 190/165 setting to run high fan, and a dash switch powering a relay for low fan. I could switch low fan on for crawling with continuous low and the thermostat would kick on at high temps, it would also be a fail safe as 2 circuits would have to fail to have a no fan situation
 
Anyone have experience with Eldorado combo e brake disc calipers and universal cable kit?

I’ve got a set on order that will fit in place of the 3/4 ton chevys I have on. Need the e brake for safety inspection.
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Using the cylinder heads for all chassis grounds and a 2 gague from battery negative to the block (filed off paint and used dialectic grease to prevent rust). Will still run ecu direct to battery leads as Holley recommends


 
Shreddinlettuce said:
Anyone have experience with Eldorado combo e brake disc calipers and universal cable kit?

I’ve got a set on order that will fit in place of the 3/4 ton chevys I have on. Need the e brake for safety inspection.
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I didn't know Buncombe did safety for something that old? Mine only get a nothing inspection and is good to go.
 
Monkeynono said:
I didn't know Buncombe did safety for something that old? Mine only get a nothing inspection and is good to go.
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There’s a checklist. Lights brake turn head (they actually check for min brightness, e brake, wipers, tire tread, seat belts if they came in the car etc. it’s pretty Mickey Mouse but the lights e take and wipers are the main ones
 
Let’s see if gravity bleeding is better than the phoenix reverse bleeder. I got no pressure in the pedal after 2 rounds reverse bleeding. Then lots of bubbles came out gravity bleeding
 

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Copied from a Chevy forum, found my problem. The brakes may well be bled, but the bore in the master cylinder doesn’t engage with the plunger from the hydroboost. I used a corvette style because the suburban master has 7.5” over center to the cap and corvette is only 3.5”.

Now I’ve gotta buy a compatible master cylinder.


I wanted to put a a little info, hope this helps out.
There are two normal types of master cylinder pistons when it comes to the input seat. Shallow bore (left pict 1) and Deep bore (right pict 1). Most commonly, Shallow bore styles are used with power brakes, and Deep bore types are used in manual set ups. It is now common in the aftermarket to use Deep bore pistons in all master cylinders, and convert them to Shallow bore style by inserting a "plug" into the bore. (shown below the Deep bore master on the right). Here's the catch. The fit from a booster or hydro to the piston should be set at "zero" lash. Think of setting up a solid cam at .000" to .002", basically zero lash. If the output rod from the booster/hydro is not letting the piston return 100%, you may (not always) have some brake drag problems. I have found it to be VERY common, with new aftermarket masters, that the plug is too long. usually .070" to .100", yes, almost 1/8". You should be able to bolt the master flush to the booster/hydro without compressing the piston into the master. I cut the plugs down in a lathe, but they can be ground or sanded.
Another way to adjust this is with the booster output rod (pict 2) most - not all - are adjustable at the tip of the output rod on the booster. Sorry, but most hydroboost unit are not adjustable. Checking the master/booster fit should be standard practice on any new brake install, just like setting valves. Hope that helps out.
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Don’t have a chop saw wanted a clean straight cut, Nashar fork cutter I bought back in my bmx days for the win

My draglink is 37.5”, trac bar is 29. Lots of bumpsteer with the soft springs I have. Looking at rockjockstrap website the jl rear bar is 38 +/- and has a hump at one end for the exhaust. That hump is right where my 3rd link happens to be. Got a cheap Amazon bar with a double adjuster nut setup and cut 1/2 inch off the adjuster and rod and I’ve got .125 of adjustment at 37.5. Now to make an outside the frame track at mount and put the sway bar on the first hole and cut off the other 2 for clearance
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Temps were getting up to 240 during test runs after about 5 miles. This is the 2nd e fan I’ve had the first came with the rad and was weak af. The 2nd was the highest rated derale fan from summit and fully shrouded, a lot better, but the thermostat switches kept failing to turn on. So I hardwired it, still overheating. 4 corner steam port goes to the highest point in the system, burped rad, 18lb rad cap, nothing worked.

So I’m going mechanical fan. Also, hated the look of a grill bar, and wanted to section the grill for more access. Also wanted to remove the fenders as they limited travel. I’m going to move the grill hoop behind the radiator, make rad mounts on the grill hoop that make the rad parallel to the fan for shrouding, section the grill, and use some Chris Durham fender deletes, then notch the hood where I get tire rub at full stuff. Might get a Durham hood in the future.
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Shreddinlettuce said:
Temps were getting up to 240 during test runs after about 5 miles. This is the 2nd e fan I’ve had the first came with the rad and was weak af. The 2nd was the highest rated derale fan from summit and fully shrouded, a lot better, but the thermostat switches kept failing to turn on. So I hardwired it, still overheating. 4 corner steam port goes to the highest point in the system, burped rad, 18lb rad cap, nothing worked.

So I’m going mechanical fan. Also, hated the look of a grill bar, and wanted to section the grill for more access. Also wanted to remove the fenders as they limited travel. I’m going to move the grill hoop behind the radiator, make rad mounts on the grill hoop that make the rad parallel to the fan for shrouding, section the grill, and use some Chris Durham fender deletes, then notch the hood where I get tire rub at full stuff. Might get a Durham hood in the future. View attachment 443024View attachment 443025View attachment 443026View attachment 443027
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What did you use for the fender filler?
 
Chris Durham makes them in Aluminum by request or 10 gage steel. His website sucks so they’re hard to find.

cdmracing.com

Front Lower Fender Insert - TJ / YJ /cj extreme cut

Chris Durham Motorsports is a manufacturer of unique products and solutions for hardcore Jeep and racing enthusiasts. Drawing on decades of competition experience and recreational trails nationwide, Chris Durham Motorsports provides products, components, and solutions for off-road enthusiasts...
cdmracing.com cdmracing.com
 
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