Quick plumbing Q

RatLabGuy

RatLabGuy

You look like a monkey and smell like one too
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
Churchville, MD
My garage is the basement for the house. classic low (7') ceiling.
I would like to remove the pipe in the pic below to along more headroom for hanging a 4Runner top.
This is the drain line coming from the tub. I have not seen a fitting like this before; the house was built in '64 so yeah, has a fortune in copper pipe and some gems like this.
awww.rewazule.com_David_Tub_pipe.jpg

Am I correct in assuming that this conifguration is like a modern P trap, and hence i could just replace it with that? I'm actually thinking maybe an S trap higher up just under the tub, then angle straight in to the collection pipe so as to maximize headroom. Or do you even need anything for a tub?
 
I posted something but it did not come in.

Here I go again in teh short version. Yes, it will work but it will drain slower and get clogged easier. Just run cleaner every so often and you will be ok.
 
Ok... my drainage is a little slow now. Prob b/c that thing is ful of my thick-ass nasty hair...

Maybe the better question is - what is the "right" way to do this, and eliminate the 5" I'm losing right now?
I assumd an S-trap would be easiest to clean out from time to time, esp sicne I have easy access?

EDIT - I have read 1-2 misc posts online that suggest S-traps are now against code and P is the new standard. Is thsi correct? i can deal w/ a P if I have to.
 
If I were needing the room, I would re-route all the pipe over closer to the wall with PVC drain pipe. Take out the copper and sell it, it's a money maker now! Might make enough on the copper to pay for all the PVC pipe. Looking at the way that one is designed, no wonder it's draining slow IMHO
 
i agree with chip id try to deal with the problem from the other side... Snap a pic of whats over there, might be able to take advantage of some existing stuff on that side..

but id start with sending it to the wall with a good slope, while its still above the floor joise, then use the joise as part of your P/S trap integration then back to the drain from the other side...
 
check your local code to see what is acceptable. How do you plan on attaching the pvc to the copper? A compression fitting that size is expensive. You can sweat that joint, but you gotta make sure there isn't any water or crap inside the pipe or you'll have to keep re-doing it
 
I'm assuming thats 2" copper

You'll need
(2) 2" NO-HUB couplings
2-4 (depending on routing) 2" pvc 45's
2" PVC trap
2-4 (depending on routing) PVC couplings
1 PVC 90
10 ft of 2" PVC
glue
primer

I'd put the trap up high as possible and route the outlet straight over to the trunk line.
 
it's actually 1.5". I was a bit surprised at that myself.
What type of trap is better, S or P.
And what's the 90 deg for?
 
1.5" is pretty much standard for older houses on lav/sink/tub drains. hard to tell from the pic exactly what the angles are, but you should be able to get away with trapping it right around the floor joist, then running straight into the Y fitting. i would certainly also incorporate a cleanout T in there also since you'll be losing the drum trap (which is installed upside down btw).

you'll want to use mission bands instead of the no hub bands troy mentioned, they're for cast iron only. mission bands are technically made for transitions from cast iron to pvc, but will work in your application. don't forget to put 1/4" per ft. of fall/grade on the line.

i'm not up on the code in forsyth co., but most in nc are moving to or have gone to requiring purple primer on pvc. not that you're going to get inspected for something so small, but it will look better to a home inspector when/if you sell.
 
Thanks. I have a can of the regular PVC goo, not sure on primer though.
Sorry, I took the pic at kind of an angle.
If I can keep all the new fitting to 2" or less below the joist, that will be a major improvement. There are other pipes 'n stuff in other places that are about that low and in the way anyhow.

Now why didn't the builder forsee me wanting to suspend a top from this ceiling... I mean, Come On, Man!
 
RufusTheRam said:
i'm not up on the code in forsyth co
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Forsyth requires purple.

90 for the turn back to parrallel the trunk line 45's for the various turns (if needed) to get back to the wye

see below (new cyan, existing red)
 

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no need for the 90 imo (again, just judging from the pics). for obvious reasons (flow), you want to minimize any turns especially on a 1.5" line. unless it's a make it or break it situation for fitting the top where you want it...
 
I like the idea of running it along the joist then jogging over, as in Troy's pic.
It's not a make it/break it deak, BUT actully by having that jount there, I can increase the angle of the line going into it (coming from the trap) to help the flow along a bit.
Although, I am suspicious that the stupid A/C condensor line (black/copper) is gonna get in the way.
 
hvac lines are just soft copper, you can move them around to an extent. up to you, but i'd leave the 90 out unless you really need to create that space in there. just my experience as a plumber...
 
BTW Ratlab

my house is a circa 1961 so i feel your pain

However my San line is service weight cast iron...but came with the lovely canister trap, as well as the copper supply going up right thru the joist like yours is

With copper where it is....better keep your basement locked! Crackheads are likely to break in with a sawzall and cut out all that copper for scrap :lol:

I've got a few jobs where I don't have a con-ex box and have been painting my big stuff black to keep the midnight creepers from taking it (they think it's iron pipe)
 
CasterTroy said:
With copper where it is....better keep your basement locked! Crackheads are likely to break in with a sawzall and cut out all that copper for scrap :lol:
I've got a few jobs where I don't have a con-ex box and have been painting my big stuff black to keep the midnight creepers from taking it (they think it's iron pipe)
Click to expand...

I was at TT&E in Garner today (scrap yard) working on a lift. while I was there, 3 different vehicles came in with NICELY rolled copper tube with foam jacket and caps on the ends (AC line) and as they were waiting in line the occupants (juvenile punks) stripped the insulation off and tossed it back in the car. the whole while looking over thier shoulder. was pretty amusing.

if only there was a way to prove where they got it
 
Just a note. If you are worried about being up to code, you may as well re-do the whole plumbing system, and wiring too. I am sure it was up to code when it was built, but not now.
 
Chip,

it should still be up to code. Code depends all when the items were installed/house built. Right now my house, if built today, wouldn't be up to code, but it was when built and still is.

However, if repairs/replacements have to be made, they must follow codes for today, not when the house was built. May be different in different counties, but thats how it is here (Pitt county)

Rob
 
it's the same way here. Hence, I'm planning to thsi bit by code, as I have everything I've done to my house. Many of my buddies think I'm anal/crazy for going the extra mile when it isn't necessary.... but this IS my castle.
 
Isn't that the whole reason for it's removal in the first place?
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all i read was he needed more clearance, i was just saying if he can get away with just raising it, that would be the better option vs. throwing a 1/4 bend in unless he has to have that additional space above simply raising the line.
With copper where it is....better keep your basement locked! Crackheads are likely to break in with a sawzall and cut out all that copper for scrap
Click to expand...
funny you mention that, thats happened to a few houses under construction in the raleigh area. luckily none of ours... we make sure to keep all of ours at the shop or on the truck racks.
Just a note. If you are worried about being up to code, you may as well re-do the whole plumbing system, and wiring too. I am sure it was up to code when it was built, but not now.
Click to expand...
my main concern with making it to code would be simply to show improvements were done in a quality manner, to current standards. not for fear of an inspection with something that minor...
 
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