Raise the roof

Seriously? Page 2 and still no pictures of the exterior or interior of said garage?
:nopics:
 
shawn said:
How does the lateral system work? If you're depending on the exterior sheathing for wall bracing, is the attachment of the full-length sister stud to the partial-length stud sufficient to transfer lateral loads to the sheathing? Are the roof trusses designed to brace the length of the wall, and of sufficient strength to take wind/seismic loads back to the roof diaphragm? Is the roof system capable of taking the additional wind load generated by the added wall height?
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Buzzkill! You need to excuse yourself from this thread due to your profession. The rest of us want to see Blaze raise his building 4ft!
 
Don't over think this. Just an opportunity knocking to build another building the way I see it.
 
We raised the roof on my father in laws garage in the mountains several years back. It was a block building with an upstairs. We tied the two sides together with some cross bracing and then used jacks to raise it slowly 4 ft. Then framed in the sides and rebuilt the ends from the block up.
 
"Harbor Freight sells some nice farm jacks.
Zip tie one to each corner (be sure to use stainless ones so they don't rust)
Jack it up and stack quickrete bags under it.
Be sure to drive some sort of scrap metal rod through the bags for reinforcement.
The bags will harden in the next rain.
Lower jacks."

-J. Fuller
 
jeepinmatt said:
Start a garage fire, burn the garage down, and then let insurance rebuild it (4ft higher). Of course there's the risk of burning your whole house down...
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Shop is about 125' from the house in the back yard, should be good there. Might be able to get rid of these pesky pine trees in the back yard at the same time this way too. ;)

shawn said:
How does the lateral system work? If you're depending on the exterior sheathing for wall bracing, is the attachment of the full-length sister stud to the partial-length stud sufficient to transfer lateral loads to the sheathing? Are the roof trusses designed to brace the length of the wall, and of sufficient strength to take wind/seismic loads back to the roof diaphragm? Is the roof system capable of taking the additional wind load generated by the added wall height?
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I'll talk to a structural guy that we do work with here and see.
 
Pictars.
2017-02-21 07.12.05.jpg

2017-01-21 16.50.51.jpg

2017-01-11 17.52.22.jpg
 
rockcity said:
^^^ the metal rods are way too forward thinking. Add after the concrete is cured and instead of rebar, use EMT. :lol:
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It's just kinda hard to find long pieces of conduit in the scrap yard...
but if you weld it together that could work.
Its safe to weld galvanized metal right? :smokin:
 
rockcity said:
Looking at the slope, you may be better off modifying the trusses appropriately for a higher ceiling.
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thats kinda what i was thinking... open the trusses up above where the lift is for clearance.
 
Mod the trusses where the lift will go and change the roof over the door to a huge dormer with a taller door? Not my shop and can't see it from my house.
 
rockcity said:
Looking at the slope, you may be better off modifying the trusses appropriately for a higher ceiling.
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I don't think that would work, they are prefab trusses and the shop is only 26ish ft deep.
 
From the pics, the trusses are still wooden, even if prefab. You should be able to mod them or place a beam it to open it up. Might not be where you want your lift though. If your side door was centered in the room, you could easily raise a section and put a taller door in.

If you are planning to add onto it anyway, why not build the expansion such that you can put the lift in it?
 
Rafters on a prefab truss are too small to put a beam up at the ridge. Look at a truss. The rafters always have 1 or more supports going to the bottom chord/ceiling joist to support it. Removing it would likely double the allowable span of that joist member.

And, without the ceiling joists how do you keep the walls from falling over during wind loading or dead loads pushing on it from the roof?
 
I talked to a truss designer he made it seem like it was a simple process to redesign and sister the trusses to change it around. He was only going to charge me something like $400 for sealed drawings
 
Blaze said:
Shop is about 125' from the house in the back yard, should be good there. Might be able to get rid of these pesky pine trees in the back yard at the same time this way too. ;)
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wait wait wait
.. .you have a bunch of trees near the garage?
Why would you need a fire?
all you need is some "creative cutting". 2 birds, one saw... I mean stone
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
If you are planning to add onto it anyway, why not build the expansion such that you can put the lift in it?
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If I build a 30x30 I'm going to leave the roof line alone and build the lift into the new shop. If I build a 26x20 on to it I want the roof line to be the same, I'm going to put a 4-post in the new shop to store my Firebirds and the big shop will be the workshop with the 2-post.
 
If the lift will be centered in the garage, what about replacing the trusses in that section with coffer trusses, or reconfigure existing to make coffer trusses?
 
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