Raleigh help welding to cast

Down&Dirty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Location
Greenville SC
I am working on building the parts to do a spring over on a set of wagoneer axles. I can handle all of the non cast welding, but I don't have the right welder or the knowledge to weld on the cast mount on the drivers side. Is there anyone in the Raleigh area that could help me out sometime in the near future. The perches aren't built yet, but I should be building them this weekend. I am in no big rush. I am getting ready to pull the body and frame apart to repaint.
 
Sounds as if you are putty full size under your rig and the frame is too narrow. Just guessing since you didn't say what you are working on.
The easiest way and most common, and I would also say the strongest, is to outboard your springs, not to make perches on the diff housing.
 
So do you think that my 220 mig will work if I pre and post heat? I have welded axle tubes to the pumpkin to keep them from spinning with it, but wasn't sure if it would work for a spring over. If I need to I can go get a stick welder. I have been looking for an excuse to spend that money. I have the torch for pre and post heat, just want to make sure the perch holds.

FYI: This is being done on a '53 willys wagon that is sitting on a '88 grand wagoneer frame and drivetrain that has been shortened 6 inches to fit under the body. The lift is one of the last things to finish before I pull the frame out to paint it up. The axles are the f/r dana 44 that came on the waggy.
 
CasterTroy said:
Using what? Like a "B" tank for copper soldering or something?
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that would work just fine. may take a little longer, but it will work.

ya don't want to get it red hot.

post heat and wrap it in a thermal blanket and let it cool (mostly for critical cast welds though).

In the past, I've just burned the weld in there really hot with a GOOD mig or 7018 (after a pre heat) and then let it cool slowly. Not saying this is the "proper" way to do it, but its worked for me in the past.

If you have any questions/concerns with doing it, just buy some nickle rods and use them with the stick welder. Thats what they are made for...

Is any of the perch going to be on the axle tube at all???


Rob
 
Without getting crazy and doing some outboarding or moving the U bolts away from the spring it will all be sitting on cast. I might be able to move one side down onto the tube, but it will take away half of the area that I was going to use to weld the tubes to the center section. My goal is to build the perch so that it wraps 50% around the pumkin so that I can box it in and reduce axle wrap. I am not using any premade perches. I can burn it in with a nickle rod and a buzz box, but then I have to buy a stick welder. I am not against this. If this is the correct way to do what I want then I guess I need to save up and go get a lincoln AC/DC tombstone and get to practiceing.

edit: It is not like I am in a huge hurry. Once it is lifted it won't fit into or out of the garage. Even on little roller tires. I am going to go ahead and lift the back since those mounts weld to the frame, but the SOA can wait until I am ready to start final assembly.
 
Tack it up and get up with me, we can get Duck to do the final burn in with his portable stick machine. (self powered) and Nickel rod. You;d have to bring the housing up here but, other than that and some beer moeny for Duck, it shouldn't be a problem. Your call.
 
you could make the perch a little different so that half of it would be welded to the axle tube...

extend the edge of the perch thats on the axle tube side and then bend it down to meet the axle tube. drill 2 holes in the perch so the Ubolt can pass through it. I know its late, so I may need to explain myself again tomorrow...
 
Rob,
You mean just stretch the side over like an inch and drill it out so that the u bolt goes through the perch instead of beside it? I guess I could get that to work out. It would take the perch from 2 1/2 inches wide to 3 1/2 inches wide so I don't think that will be a problem. Then I could weld in the tubes and then add the perch.
I have put a lot more thought into the timing of the lift and with the rig not fitting into where I will be painting or doing final assembly I am probably going to have to wait until I am almost finished to lift it and get driveshafts made.
 
Won't fit even with rollers? is your garage abnormally short?
 
Ratman, Thanks for the offer. i might get up with you if I can ever get to that point. thought it would be this weekend but my welder crapped out on me.

Rich, the garage is just over 82 inches tall. Before the lift the top of the rig sits at 77 inches. I lifted the back this weekend and gained 8 inches to the rig. That puts the top at 85 on rollers. so now I am 3 inches taller than the opening I have to fit out of. the plan is to use some small dollys and just pull the tires off to drag it out of the garage. I know that 85 inches is way to tall, but this is just a trail rig not a rock crawler. I am getting parts together to build my crawler.
 
Down&Dirty said:
Ratman, Thanks for the offer. i might get up with you if I can ever get to that point. thought it would be this weekend but my welder crapped out on me.
Rich, the garage is just over 82 inches tall. Before the lift the top of the rig sits at 77 inches. I lifted the back this weekend and gained 8 inches to the rig. That puts the top at 85 on rollers. so now I am 3 inches taller than the opening I have to fit out of. the plan is to use some small dollys and just pull the tires off to drag it out of the garage. I know that 85 inches is way to tall, but this is just a trail rig not a rock crawler. I am getting parts together to build my crawler.
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If you want I could drop by with the 100 for a hour or so next weekend if your ready to tack it up.


BTW, my 44 under my old toy had the same problem. I ran the U bolt through the perch and about 3/4's of it was on the chunk. I welded it with a mig after a preheat, I post heated it as well. Never did break THAT perch, instead we broke all the rest of them. Front and rear. LOL
 
welding to cast

hey man u need a rod called nirod 95 its great for cast to carbon or ni rod 99 for cast to cast u will need to pree heat and post heat
 
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