Rear engine buggy alot of questions!

Loganwayne

Loganwayne

#BTL
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Location
Clyde, North Carolina
Found a chassis I might be interested in, but here's the problem I don't have a clue on how to install a rear engine buggy. It had a 2.0 4cyl in it.
Do most people just use a front wheel drive 4cyl and turn it sideways?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Loganwayne said:
Found a chassis I might be interested in, but here's the problem I don't have a clue on how to install a rear engine buggy. It had a 2.0 4cyl in it.
Do most people just use a front wheel drive 4cyl and turn it sideways?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
You can, or use a std drivetrain and flip the diffs.
 
Yep, I had a rear engine buggy with a Honda engine & trans setup. Be glad to answer any questions I can about transaxle setups. But after owning one, I'd recommend not doing a transaxle and build something with a transfer case.
 
untchabl said:
Yep, I had a rear engine buggy with a Honda engine & trans setup. Be glad to answer any questions I can about transaxle setups. But after owning one, I'd recommend not doing a transaxle and build something with a transfer case.
Click to expand...
So with going with a regular transfer case and trans id need to flip the diffs?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
With a transaxle buggy, all your gear reduction is in the axle gearing. I was running built Yota axles with 5.29's, on obstacles I was in first gear only and it still didn't have enough gear reduction for real slow technical stuff. It would do it but if I was on an obstacle that took awhile to get over or was long and technical, I had to keep an eye on the transmission temps cause it would start to get kind of warm.

Another thing to consider with a rear engine buggy is weight bias. When I first bought my buggy the front would get light on climbs and the front suspension wouldn't work properly. I used the winch to suck down the suspension but after awhile I started running water in the front tires, had them filled up to about even with the hubs so basically half full of water. That really helped the performance of the buggy. But that same weight bias will make descents a breeze, I'd easily drop off ledges that would be sketchy in a regular front engine buggy.
 
untchabl said:
With a transaxle buggy, all your gear reduction is in the axle gearing. I was running built Yota axles with 5.29's, on obstacles I was in first gear only and it still didn't have enough gear reduction for real slow technical stuff. It would do it but if I was on an obstacle that took awhile to get over or was long and technical, I had to keep an eye on the transmission temps cause it would start to get kind of warm.

Another thing to consider with a rear engine buggy is weight bias. When I first bought my buggy the front would get light on climbs and the front suspension wouldn't work properly. I used the winch to suck down the suspension but after awhile I started running water in the front tires, had them filled up to about even with the hubs so basically half full of water. That really helped the performance of the buggy. But that same weight bias will make descents a breeze, I'd easily drop off ledges that would be sketchy in a regular front engine buggy.
Click to expand...
I was figuring there was gonna be some problems with it crawling steep trails, it could just be the angles of the pictures but it looks like I could build a fuel cell and put up front Infront of my feet to help even the weight ratio out... Still trying to figure out if this is a project I wanna take on.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Try to avoid putting anything in front of your view, I loved how much of the trail I could see with mine. I could see every tire except the passenger rear while strapped in. That being said, my next buggy will more than likely be front engine.

Are you wanting a lightweight buggy or tons/"big motor" (aka not a 4-banger)?
 
untchabl said:
Try to avoid putting anything in front of your view, I loved how much of the trail I could see with mine. I could see every tire except the passenger rear while strapped in.

Are you wanting a lightweight buggy or tons/"big motor" (aka not a 4-banger)?
Click to expand...
Both.... I've been looking for options for my next build BUT was going something on 37-40s. Was looking at a juggy based rig. But I have always liked the light nimble rigs.... So that's why I'm here asking questions.

If you've seen the little VW buggy at the flats I would go for something similar to that.

Adding water to the tires how much does that effect the wheel spin and shock load on parts?

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
I have seen the buggy with the VW bug hood, talked to him at the Flats over a year ago before I sold mine. He had a turbo Geo motor in it then with a Sami trans and tcase. That's the kind of buggy I like, very simple and very light. But I'd have to have an auto trans, so much better off-road.

My next buggy will be a 2-seater with turbo 4-banger, auto trans, probably dual Yota cases or Atlas and built Yota axles on 37 or 39 BFG reds. Hopefully under 2500lbs with me in it. But that's a few years away, other things going on in life right now, marriage, new house, etc all coming up soon.

The water in the tires does add to the stress on the front axle parts. I broke an OG Longfield 27-spline front axle right at the birf on my first Harlan trip. Switched to 30-spline RCVs and never broke another.
 
untchabl said:
I have seen the buggy with the VW bug hood, talked to him at the Flats over a year ago before I sold mine. He had a turbo Geo motor in it then with a Sami trans and tcase. That's the kind of buggy I like, very simple and very light. But I'd have to have an auto trans, so much better off-road.

My next buggy will be a 2-seater with turbo 4-banger, auto trans, probably dual Yota cases or Atlas and built Yota axles on 37 or 39 BFG reds. Hopefully under 2500lbs with me in it. But that's a few years away, other things going on in life right now, marriage, new house, etc all coming up soon.
Click to expand...
.... Ya I try to buy that buggy everytime I see him lol. I don't think it has a turbo now? Maybe different motor as well. But what your wanting is basically what I'd like to do if I end up buying this thing. I thought about getting it as just a chassis but if the axles are already flipped, possibly narrowed I may just buy it as a roller.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
@part time wheeler and I were discussing a VW diesel mated to a sami case the other day. Think he was thinking front engine though.
 
Another issue with transaxle buggies is getting a rear driveshaft of substantial length.

On civic transaxle, the driver side cv output goes to the rear, and the pass side to the front.

This puts the rear driveline starting near the bell housing bolts.

Being that the Honda motor is 24" or so long, putting the crank pulley just in front of the rear axle, nets you a 24" long rear shaft.

You will need a carrier bearing of some sort to hold the cv stub into the trans axle.

Ideally this would mean 24" long links for minimal driveline plunge,

Or move the engine and transaxle as far forward as possible.

With keeping the engine and all behind seats, and as short of wheel base as possible, puts the foot controls and footwell just about above the front axle at full bump.

Great for seeing obstacles on the trail and on climbs.

I like the idea of fuel tank, radiator and all other heat/fire sources behind the seats and firewall.

Cooler ride on the trail and safer IMO.

This also means most of the weight centrally located for a low polar moment of inertia, which is superior for handling.

Just my .02.
 
Mac5005 said:
Another issue with transaxle buggies is getting a rear driveshaft of substantial length.

On civic transaxle, the driver side cv output goes to the rear, and the pass side to the front.

This puts the rear driveline starting near the bell housing bolts.

Being that the Honda motor is 24" or so long, putting the crank pulley just in front of the rear axle, nets you a 24" long rear shaft.

You will need a carrier bearing of some sort to hold the cv stub into the trans axle.

Ideally this would mean 24" long links for minimal driveline plunge,

Or move the engine and transaxle as far forward as possible.

With keeping the engine and all behind seats, and as short of wheel base as possible, puts the foot controls and footwell just about above the front axle at full bump.

Great for seeing obstacles on the trail and on climbs.

I like the idea of fuel tank, radiator and all other heat/fire sources behind the seats and firewall.

Cooler ride on the trail and safer IMO.

This also means most of the weight centrally located for a low polar moment of inertia, which is superior for handling.

Just my .02.
Click to expand...
This one looks like it had a transmission and transfer case. Waiting on the guy to message me back. That would help me out a bit I think. Especially since it already has axles and was a complete buggy at some point

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Loganwayne said:
This one looks like it had a transmission and transfer case. Waiting on the guy to message me back. That would help me out a bit I think. Especially since it already has axles and was a complete buggy at some point

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

In that case I would copy Jesse Haines newest build.

GM ecotec 4cyl, boosted or NA, powerglide or tf904/999 with a dana 300.

Small light and relatively cheap/easy to get replacement parts.

This would require flipped diffs.

Some Honda engines rotate CCW, opposite direction than most normal engines, meaning you can use them as rear engine setup without flipping the diffs.


My wife's buggy is rear Lexus 1uz, aw4 with dana 300. Fzj80 rear with flipped third, and going to widen a mini truck front with rcvs, also with a flipped third.
 
Last edited:
Mac5005 said:
Honda transaxles rotate opposite direction than most normal engines, meaning you can use them rear engine without flipping the diffs.
Click to expand...
How so? All FWD cars CV shafts must turn the same direction... Forward for forward and reverse for reverse. Maybe you mean the motor is on the opposite side of the car from most.
 
Back
Top