Required capability for NC trails

jpm15

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Charlotte
Hi, I have posted a couple times regarding my search for an LJ. I am trying to decide if it is worth spending the extra for a rubicon. I hear the low gear ratio is overkill if you are not doing serious rock crawling.

Will someone chime in with their opinion on if the extras on the rubicon package are worth paying for if I would only be doing moderate difficulty stuff in NC?

Josh
 
I may be wrong (somebody correct me if I am) but the rubies come with a 410:1 gearing. I seen else where where you had said that you wanted to run 33s. In my opinion, that is a great combo for on road/ offroad drivability. My TJ had a 3 speed slush box had 373's when I first lifted it with 33's. I upgraded to 410's and noticed only that I wasn't struggling off the line and as much to maintain highway speeds. Mpg's didn't significantly change.
 
I believe Rubicons come with 4:1 TC gears and lockers in both axles as well as the 4.10 axle gears RobMcBee mentioned. I have no idea how much the upgraded Rubicon package costs from the dealer, but if you are going to wheel the Jeep, it seems hard to beat.
 
When it comes to a tj,or Jk, the Rubi is by far worth the extra money. If your shooting to run 40,s. By the standard model.because you will be replacing everything anyway
 
Hi, I have posted a couple times regarding my search for an LJ. I am trying to decide if it is worth spending the extra for a rubicon. I hear the low gear ratio is overkill if you are not doing serious rock crawling.

Will someone chime in with their opinion on if the extras on the rubicon package are worth paying for if I would only be doing moderate difficulty stuff in NC?

A stock rubicon with skid plates will handle most of NC. Being said I have seen rubicons when the trails get slick and wet the 4wd low is geared way to low and they have slow wheel speed and cannot get up a hill without a lot of throttle. These were automatic jeeps of course. Find a rubicon with a manual and you won't have to worry about the gears being too low.
 
Rubicon LJs are EXPENSIVE. If you can afford one, go for it.

Are you looking for an auto or manual? With an auto, the 4:1 tcase isn't really necessary, but with a manual it's very nice for crawling.

All LJs come with rear dana 44 with limited slip and 3.73s. With a rubicon you're paying for selectable lockers in both ends, a 44 front, 4.10 gears and the lower transfer case gear. If you plan to wheel it and want selectable lockers you're probably better off buying a rubicon instead of upgrading the dana 30 in a non rubicon.
 
LJ Rubi,s are priced way higher than book value, demand has them way up. On the west coast they are like gold.
 
I appreciate all the replies. I do plan to wheel it although that will not be the primary use. One to two times a month if Im lucky...two kids, a job, etc.

I may be wrong (somebody correct me if I am) but the rubies come with a 410:1 gearing. I seen else where where you had said that you wanted to run 33s. In my opinion, that is a great combo for on road/ offroad drivability. My TJ had a 3 speed slush box had 373's when I first lifted it with 33's. I upgraded to 410's and noticed only that I wasn't struggling off the line and as much to maintain highway speeds. Mpg's didn't significantly change.

I do plan to get 33s but the LJ I found has brand new tires so I will wait till those wear out. I plan to regear to 4.88s when I do go 33s though. I have heard that is the best combo.

A stock rubicon with skid plates will handle most of NC. Being said I have seen rubicons when the trails get slick and wet the 4wd low is geared way to low and they have slow wheel speed and cannot get up a hill without a lot of throttle. These were automatic jeeps of course. Find a rubicon with a manual and you won't have to worry about the gears being too low.

I am looking for an automatic. My old wrangler was a manual, but since I have had autos and have gotten spoiled. Also, after watching videos on youtube it looks like wheeling in an auto is much easier. Not really positive on the pros and cons of each though.

Rubicon LJs are EXPENSIVE. If you can afford one, go for it.

Are you looking for an auto or manual? With an auto, the 4:1 tcase isn't really necessary, but with a manual it's very nice for crawling.

All LJs come with rear dana 44 with limited slip and 3.73s. With a rubicon you're paying for selectable lockers in both ends, a 44 front, 4.10 gears and the lower transfer case gear. If you plan to wheel it and want selectable lockers you're probably better off buying a rubicon instead of upgrading the dana 30 in a non rubicon.

Unfortunatey I am on a budget.

My build would probably happen over time (two years or so). Looks like all the Rubis are about 17k at the low end. I think I found an 04 LJ with 110k in excellet condition for around 11.5k. New tires, hard/soft tops.

I plan on putting a 3.5" lift with 33s and regearing to 4.88s...plus whatever else is necessary with 33s. The lockers is my main reason for wondering if the upgrade to Rubicon is worth it. That is really the item that I dont know if it is necessary for the use I would have...nothing extreme.

Again, thanks for all the relplies!
 
Whoa, don't need that much lift. 2 to 2.5 is more than enough till longarms, and will easily clear 33's. 35s with some fender love
 
Whoa, don't need that much lift. 2 to 2.5 is more than enough till longarms, and will easily clear 33's. 35s with some fender love

thanks for the advice. I am piecing my thoughts together from my forum research, but when it comes time to actually do it I will definitely dig deeper to make sure I am doing everything that should be done.
 
With 33s, 4.88s, auto, and a 4:1 tcase, it'll be too low.
 
Lockers while "4wheelin" are definitely worth it. Without 'em, you're really only 2wheelin' while in 4LO. A selectable up front is a real bonus, allows you to steer thru the easy stuff, lock in when needed. I don't really see the need for selectable in the rear, but locker is a must IMHO.
 
LJ's have the 4.0 correct?

4.88s and 33s would suck on the highway. I have 4.56 and 33s and it is still geared low for the highway. Pushing 2700 rpm at 70 mph
 
You are getting some great advise here, I didn't have all this info when I had my 06 Rubi. I ended up building it twice. I put a piece of shit 6 inch short arm kit on it, drove like crap, tippy on the trail and the rear would tuck every time on a ledge. I ran 35s with the stock 4.10 gears, it was a slug on the highway.
Listens and learned from my fellow wheelers, dropped it down too a 2.5 lift, did a flat belly skid and 33s. Drove good on the highway and it wheeled.like a billy goat, just plain worked.

The flat skid is a good point too, the factory skid is a massive hanging shovel, the flat skid is a major advantage, If I had to choose between stock tires and a flat belly or 35,s and a factory skid, I would choose stock tires all day!
 
Yeah like said above. 4.88's would be way to low IMO. Mine ran fine at 70 mph with 410's (can't remember the rpm)
 
with little off road, and mainly DD'ing it, factor in the cost of selectable lockers. it was said no need for the rear selectable, differ in opinion on that note. every time you pull out turn left, or turn right, you will have tire chirp, which means you are spinning one or the other. The down side to a non selectable in the rear will be tire wear, and, wear on the locker too. I'd go with selectable on both ends if it was within your budget, for your actual use as you describe.
 
For any rig of any price range, I'll stand firm at AT(or MT)tire, front locker and a winch. Minimum.
I drive a v8 buggy on 42s, last three or four rigs prior to where 1/2 ton axles and 35-37s and honestly, I've had just as much fun driving them as I have a beater budget rigs on 31-33s. Wheeling doesn't have to be about bug experience rigs with big power and bling parts.
 
When I think back on the rig I started wheeling 10 years ago, (cherokee, 4.0, lock right front and 31" swampers), and how much fun it was to go wheeling, I'd trade it all in a heartbeat! Those were the days! When Gulches orv park was young and so was I. My little cherokee on 31s was the first rig to make it up the new TNT rock garden, shipwreck, and skinny pedal ridge... Epic.
 
LJ's have the 4.0 correct?

4.88s and 33s would suck on the highway. I have 4.56 and 33s and it is still geared low for the highway. Pushing 2700 rpm at 70 mph

In what? The 42RLE has a tall overdrive and 4.88s with 33s is perfect. 2500 rpm at 70.

And like others said, you only need 2" lift for 33s. Wheel offset makes a big difference and you will need extended bumpstops.
 
Wow. I appreciate all the advise and great insight.

My primary source thus far has been jeepforum.com. It sounds like there is a differing of opinion on the gears for 33s.

I think I may need to put a little more thought into this before pulling the trigger on a non-rubi. The problem is finding a private party seller with one that is worth buying. Dont really want to pay the premium from a dealer.

The flat skid is a good point too, the factory skid is a massive hanging shovel, the flat skid is a major advantage, If I had to choose between stock tires and a flat belly or 35,s and a factory skid, I would choose stock tires all day!

Good advice. I have not heard this before.
 
4.88s like another said in the 42RLE is perfect. Don't do anything other than 4.88s if you are doing 33s. The .69 OD really kills it on the highway so you need the 4.88s. Trust me, I have an 04 auto.

Like others also said, 2.5 is all you need to run 33s. I have 35s on 2.5", and also run some 32's sometimes on the street also. I wouldn't worry too much about getting a rubicon, resale will be higher but for less of the difference you can throw a D30HP in the front which is a better front axle then the Rubicon D44, then you can throw a better locker in the rear of the D44 and come out ahead. Still you won't have the resale of the Rubicon, but I wouldn't worry too much.
 
Factory ratio, apples to apples, for a stock Rubicon with 30.5s and 4.10s vs. a Rubicon with 33s are 4.27 rear gears. But it's not worth the expense to change. Spend the money tucking the belly pan instead.

it was said no need for the rear selectable, differ in opinion on that note. every time you pull out turn left, or turn right, you will have tire chirp, which means you are spinning one or the other.

Chip, maybe you can troubleshoot my problem, then. When I pull out and turn left or right (doesn't matter), the inside tire squeals. If I turn the rear locker on, both rear tires squeal.

What gives? :flipoff2:
 
Chip, maybe you can troubleshoot my problem, then. When I pull out and turn left or right (doesn't matter), the inside tire squeals. If I turn the rear locker on, both rear tires squeal.

What gives? :flipoff2:[/QUOTE]
Means you need to stop driving the wifes jeep before she puts a pop knot on that head!!
 
Factory ratio, apples to apples, for a stock Rubicon with 30.5s and 4.10s vs. a Rubicon with 33s are 4.27 rear gears. But it's not worth the expense to change. Spend the money tucking the belly pan instead.



Chip, maybe you can troubleshoot my problem, then. When I pull out and turn left or right (doesn't matter), the inside tire squeals. If I turn the rear locker on, both rear tires squeal.

What gives? :flipoff2:
You need a doubler, and Chip is an idiot.
 
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