Review now of Chainsaw sharpener (grinder type)

[WARRIORWELDING]

Looking for feedback on brands of grinders for chainsaw chains.
I've hand filed a plenty. Yes great for tune ups and if you stay on top of the wear. I grew up around a relative who owned and ran a saw sharpening shop. All things wood cutting and sharp.
His grinder was a really nice unit. Oregon I think.
Looking for real world purchase and feed back. Not looking for file advice. I run mine usually til a file is a pain or I get in dirty wood or the dirt......yeah it's about the operator.
Bench mount, no gimicky saw mounted units either.

 

[Pless]

I have the one in the link below it works very well, I sharpen chains for me and my dad with it. I am defiantly not any kind of an expert with it, but in just a few minutes you can have a chain almost as good as a new one. I have brought back several chains that have tried to eat rocks. The version with the hydraulic clamp would defiantly speed the process up, but it is a little more pricey.

Amazon product ASIN B00Y0S88Y8

 

[jeepinmatt]

I have the Northern Tool version of ^ from about 10 years ago. Works fine. I also have a collection of chains I will resharpen on it "some day" but its easier to just buy new and not hit rocks/dirt, and keep em touched up with a file.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

but its easier to just buy new and not hit rocks/dirt, and keep em touched up with a file.

Because of set up? Or time to take down bar and chain?
My thinking is a little opposite. I have a 20 something on the smaller saw and a 36, 48 for the bigger unit. That's a dang bunch of file work. The other factor is clamping them up to steady them. I like to file at a comfortable height and save the stooping and fighting awkwardness for the work.
I always just put them in a vise at the shop. I don't carry a vice to the field, but a spare chain will be ready and handy. Wrestling a hot saw on a tailgate or such always brings the suck.
On another thought breaking them down to sharpen might actually being me to do more maintenance oriented cleaning and checks as well.

Grinding the teeth was always kinda neat and therapeutic like making chips on a mill.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

I have the one in the link below it works very well, I sharpen chains for me and my dad with it. I am defiantly not any kind of an expert with it, but in just a few minutes you can have a chain almost as good as a new one. I have brought back several chains that have tried to eat rocks. The version with the hydraulic clamp would defiantly speed the process up, but it is a little more pricey.

Amazon product ASIN B00Y0S88Y8

Was any of the literature good for set up and use?
Do you have to profile the stones yourself?
Good stable adjustment points that stay put?

 

[amcjeepman]

I have a knock off version of the Oregon that I've been using for 20 years. It's loud as crap but I have maintained the chains from my 2 main saws and some others for friends. I don't hand file anything anymore and am able to get numerous consistent sharpening's for each chain.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

@Pless actually clicking the link instead of piping questions was a big help.

 

[89wrangler]

I have the Northern Tool version of ^ from about 10 years ago. Works fine. I also have a collection of chains I will resharpen on it "some day" but its easier to just buy new and not hit rocks/dirt, and keep em touched up with a file.

I have one of these as well. I have 4 chains, I sharpen them all and when I get down to one, I repeat.takes maybe 30 minutes with a beer break. Main thing is not take too much off, just sharpen.

 

[Pless]

@Pless actually clicking the link instead of piping questions was a big help.

The literature that comes with it explains everything pretty well, its handy to have the specs on the particular chain if you want to take it back to what it was factory. It comes with a gauge and a dressing stone to reshape the wheel. I have mine held down with some lag bolts to the work bench.

 

[guffey24]

I have been using the dremel tool with the chainsaw bits for years, never a complaint

 

[jeepinmatt]

Because of set up? Or time to take down bar and chain?
My thinking is a little opposite. I have a 20 something on the smaller saw and a 36, 48 for the bigger unit. That's a dang bunch of file work. The other factor is clamping them up to steady them. I like to file at a comfortable height and save the stooping and fighting awkwardness for the work.
I always just put them in a vise at the shop. I don't carry a vice to the field, but a spare chain will be ready and handy. Wrestling a hot saw on a tailgate or such always brings the suck.
On another thought breaking them down to sharpen might actually being me to do more maintenance oriented cleaning and checks as well.

Grinding the teeth was always kinda neat and therapeutic like making chips on a mill.

Mostly just laziness. I can throw the saw on the tailgate of the truck and file everything in less than 5 minutes without having to break the saw down. Plus nothing cuts as good as a new chain.

 

[jeepyjman]

I have swapped to carbide tipped just because I hate sharpening. Forester is the brand I use.

 

[cranbiz]

There must be something wrong with me, I don't see a link.

Anyways, I have the Oregon 12V portable hand grinder and it works just fine for a quick touch up as it doesn't take the rakes down. Not sure if I'm going to use it on the chains for the Stihl though. The Stihl file that also does the rakes is quick to use and pretty much fool proof.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

There must be something wrong with me, I don't see a link.

Anyways, I have the Oregon 12V portable hand grinder and it works just fine for a quick touch up as it doesn't take the rakes down. Not sure if I'm going to use it on the chains for the Stihl though. The Stihl file that also does the rakes is quick to use and pretty much fool proof.

A buddy runs them they are very nice. Never checked for compatibility with my Echo chains. I am thinking as long as the file size is right it should be a no brainer cross over.
Hmm. I think I'll put the grinder on the wish list. Might get a gift from the wife I can use.

 

[orange150]

There must be something wrong with me, I don't see a link.

Turn your ad blocker off

 

[lockedup5]

I used a dremel tool for years then broke down and bought an elcheapo $30 sharpener from harbor freight and it works great. I'm sure a higher priced one does better but it can't do much better. Just sucks to have to remove the chain every time but it gives me a chance to clean out the sprocket

 

[rodney eppes]

I bought this so many years ago, I don't remember Where from. Maybe Northern. Just like a dremel, but has a angle guide built on the grinder. There is also a depth gauge, that I've never used. 3 grinder stones. On/off switch in line, of the 12V battery clips. I Still don't know much about sharpening, but have learned some from others, over the years. Works pretty good for a dummy. I bet it'd be great if you Knew what your doing!

 

[Caver Dave]

Just sucks to have to remove the chain every time but it gives me a chance to clean out the sprocket

Don't forget about the bar... they will get packed full too and all but stop oil flow

@Tater & I have a couple of ancient Neilsen grinders from Dad's old shop. Have sharpened a gazillion chains on them since the '70s, they're worn, but still serviceable and I find it easier than filing

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

After burying my newest saws chain in bushes to get down low to the ground I've pulled the trigger on a grinder. My daughter is renting a small house that she and family are renovating. Clearing a fallen pine covered in wisteria and cutting terra firma I've decided to invest.
A slew of research did nothing more then hurt my brain.
After it comes in and I get to try it out I'll disclose my purchase along with either a hate it rant or praises of metal dust and wood chips.
Did learn that the one I mentioned I'd been around personally was not Oregon, but had a foot actuated clamp. The only thing I found like it was a USG by Stihl. Nice but to many dollars for me.

 

[jeepinmatt]

After burying my newest saws chain in bushes to get down low to the ground I've pulled the trigger on a grinder. My daughter is renting a small house that she and family are renovating. Clearing a fallen pine covered in wisteria and cutting terra firma I've decided to invest.
A slew of research did nothing more then hurt my brain.
After it comes in and I get to try it out I'll disclose my purchase along with either a hate it rant or praises of metal dust and wood chips.
Did learn that the one I mentioned I'd been around personally was not Oregon, but had a foot actuated clamp. The only thing I found like it was a USG by Stihl. Nice but to many dollars for me.

You mean this?

Unless I am missing something, it just looks like the orange overpriced version of the Oregon one. A foot pedal would be sweet though!

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

You mean this?
View attachment 344449


Unless I am missing something, it just looks like the orange overpriced version of the Oregon one. A foot pedal would be sweet though!

That is a Stihl brand. Suposedly they machine surfaces more and the dead give away is it grinds on the opposite side from most. When discussing the Stihl on certain boards the angles and nomenclature are all unique and a source of much cock waggle. It has a reputation for being more oncenter with the vice when swivling and keeping left and right teeth more consistent without re readjusting. Could be just loyal brand folk.

The foot pedal I remember was like a very old Foley brand. Glen sharpened all things wood and carbide tipped. Circular, band, and chain. He well may have copied a Foley vice. But I found some good images to make it more clear. I don't remember the green, but I remember it was a real tool. Not the light plastic and cheap choices of today.

The last shot is because I don't understand why all of them are not reversible. This one feature be nice for the burr left on one side of the chain. The only reason I think they don't do it is the debris and sparks coming out toward the operators side.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

What I ended up with. Made in Italy. Seems from research they are the maker or source design of the Oregon models. The Oregon models (haven't looked in a while can't 100% confirm where Asian made for them)


First impression is good. Cast mystery metal base. Aluminum or some zinc magnesium mixture. Decent springs and stamped metal pieces of a fairly sturdy gauge. The swivel vice and related are rigid and not overly sloppy. I like this particular vise for the spring tensioner rollers and clamp area. The hydraulic clamp catches several chain links and adjust for variations of drive link thickness. The auto clamp seems stable and no handle (of a basic ecentric) to open and close.

Tagging folk who originally gave some sort of feedback.
@BigClay @Pless @jeepinmatt @rodney eppes @NCJeeplover @guffey24 @jeepyjman @braxton357 @Caver Dave @lockedup5 @orange150 @cranbiz @89wrangler @amcjeepman

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

The motor runs quiet with no vibrations on the wheel. The built in light is somewhat a joke unless your on top of the unit. I remember my great uncle wearing visor magnifier glasses like an old school machinist use. I know why now. To see the links in great detail I've found a couple crutches for now.

The literature isn't bad and the accompanied chart help me narrow down what chain came on my Echo Timber Wolf. Go figure it was an Oregon. The plastic widget in the back ground has various check go no go style functions. Gets you darn close. I had to be careful because first glance using it I thought I had a 35 degree angled cutter. With the other info on hand nothing fit the chart. Turns out it was 25 degrees....yep everything else fits.

Like all things tools the next bit is all about the operator and set up.....so far.
Careful study and reading led me to get it situated for my chain. Cutter angle is a compound function. Couple cheat notes directly on the machine keeps my head straight.

This down angle part of the tooth is cleaverly accomplished by the position of the center line of the wheel from verticle of the centerline of the vice and tooth being ground. The other angles are fairly straight forward. So much so if you can't figure them out you might want to reconsider actually operating a saw.

 

[WARRIORWELDING]

First sharpening was a bit of feeler. Out of the box I had badly grounded (dirt) the chain. So one side was more dull than the other. Chopping old bushes at the ground is a horrible idea.
I didn't use calipers to gauge left and right tooth length but I did notice several variations in tooth contact on the first pass. Setting the depth of cut a second pass seemed to bring them into a consistent grind wheel contact.

This adjustment like the others has plastic knobs. Not the end of the world it's at least a very dense polymer. I would have liked metal though. The centerline of the chain stop is also adjustable tuning helps with equal stopping of the teeth.

Now for some wood. After hitting the right hand I crossed back over and felt all the teeth had a consistent contact. They look like a good pattern of metal removal. However a few teeth are minutely rounded at the very tip, but sharp to the edge.

The little rounded nose you can see here. Its sharp to the tip But the nose is down.

So the wood.....making shavings. Good shaving without kick back or dragging down the saw expected since I didn't hit the depth gauges.

Several cuts in I am tickled. Cutting some form of hard wood lap fell from a tree. Saving the biggest toward the last I notice the saw pulling a bit. This stuff is at most 15 inches but the saw it working harder and the bar is binding.

I had been bucking all the cuts to stay off the ground. Always been taught if a bar dives left or right one side is sharper. If it saws in a bow and tries to curve the bars bent. This is straight as an arrow but diving right.

Back at the shop close inspection reveal that 90 percent of the left hand cutters are sharp to the point but it is slightly rounded, like the previous picture.

After measuring all the teeth the data shows. LH vary +- .006 and the RH +-.007 from shortest to longest. The left average .383 and the right average .388 long. This is consistent with the left hand teeth showing the rounded tip.

Time to resharpen and see what we get.

 

[ponykilr]

Wanted to add that after subbing outdoor work for rental management companies for years, my DeWalt brushless reciprocating saw with long pruning blades are better for most bush and small tree work.

I will stick a reciprocating saw blade right in the dirt to cut a root or stump and not give it a second thought and they cut well a long time abusing them like that. Blades are cheap and quick to change, especially compared to chains.