Riding mower issues

mbalbritton

mbalbritton

#@$%!
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Lakeland, FL
That time of year again. Trying to get the old mower running. I have a battery charging issues. Started last season. Doesn't seem to be charging the battery.

I think it's an '06. It's a Troy Bilt Super Bronco I got from a trade a few years ago here in NC4x4. It's been a good mower. But this problems got me. Where the fuck is the voltage regulator on the damn thing!!!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1427756051.373845.jpg
 
I have one too, think its an 08, loud, smokey piece of crap.
 
Just scrap it and give me the deck.:)
 
If I remember right, somewhere in the mass of cobwebs and grass clipping is a fuse under the fuel tank area. will keep the battery from charging if blown or corroded.
 
Found the fuse earlier. It's not blown. But probably could use a cleaning of the connections.

Charging the battery tonight, so we'll see. I didn't the voltage reg. but I'll take another look.
 
just replaced my battery this week. has had a charging issue for a few years, figured the battery was dead. been jumping it off every time.

Now when the battery dies atleast i'll know where to start looking.
 
I think I did loose 1 regulator, after I washed a Hot motor, & steam came off it. Replaced the reg, charged for a bit then quite again. A 3 wire plug connection was dirty & corroded!
 
When it's running, check the battery voltage. At idle, battery voltage should be around 13 volts. At full speed, closer to 14 volts. What kind of symptoms are you having? Does it get to the compression stroke and then stop or struggle to get beyond that?
 
rockmafia said:
My mower did the same thing last year. 24 hp briggs. Voltage regulator was on the side of the motor. Bout $15 to fix it. Looked like this. The stator is under the flywheel.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mFaUSPqfU3VIiUaaSP9d0Yw.jpg
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I have a 24hp briggs platinum on a Craftsman mower and it just chews through any amount of grass, leaves, leaf covered stumps, rocks and logging chains etc.,.............. the blades will be destroyed by the last 3 examples but the motor and spindles have held up well. Have not had any charging problems.
 
maulcruiser said:
When it's running, check the battery voltage. At idle, battery voltage should be around 13 volts. At full speed, closer to 14 volts. What kind of symptoms are you having? Does it get to the compression stroke and then stop or struggle to get beyond that?
Click to expand...

Fired it up let it warm up for the first time this season. Long enough the air the tires up and drive it around a little. Engaged the blades and made it about 10' and it bogged down and cut off. Fired it right back up and made it about 5'. Fired it up again and cut off when the blades were engaged. Then wouldn't fire up at all. Went from a real strong crank on a freshly charged battery to no cranking in about 15-20 or run time.

Charging the battery again, I fully expect to drop the battery in and it fire right up. Engine runs strong, but the charging system ain't working'!
 
Reid said:
or you have a rope around the blades.
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good thought, but It got to the point that it would die even without engaging the blades. I may have a couple issues going own.

I'm also having a problem that the transmission won't go into neutral.

If I could afford another riding mower right now, I'd burn this bitch to the ground!
 
mbalbritton said:
good thought, but It got to the point that it would die even without engaging the blades. I may have a couple issues going own.

I'm also having a problem that the transmission won't go into neutral.

If I could afford another riding mower right now, I'd burn this bitch to the ground!
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You should probably start a bad seller thread since you bought it off the board.
 
RHSCTJ said:
You should probably start a bad seller thread since you bought it off the board.
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probably, but I can't recall who it was. I mean afterall, I traded for this used mower that ran when delivered, cut grass for 3 years before replacing any parts. CONSTANTLY fed it regular pump fuel, numerous times I had to sharpen the blades because it cut so much grass, stumps, sticks, rocks that I couldn't keep them sharp. Now 6 years later, I see it's true colors for the POS that I was gyped on. FAWKIN NC4X4 Scammers!



.....sarcasm for those that don't get it.
 
Anyone know what the retainer ring is called on the end of the starter that holds the drive gear on? It's shaped like a "C" and the profile is round. I've tried a couple of different style rings and they all fly off. the one that's on there now barely holds on. it's a bit stressed and worn out. fawkin nc4x4 scammers.
 
mbalbritton said:
Anyone know what the retainer ring is called on the end of the starter that holds the drive gear on? It's shaped like a "C" and the profile is round. I've tried a couple of different style rings and they all fly off. the one that's on there now barely holds on. it's a bit stressed and worn out. fawkin nc4x4 scammers.
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dunno, but mine got fawked last season. wouldnt engage the flywheel/stator, what ever its called on a single piston. replaced the whole starter.

it wouldnt allow the helical plastic piece to lift the gear into position. if i saved the old starter i'll see if i can salvage any of it for you.

i gotta feeling it went out in the last scrap run.
 
That's just a snap ring and is only available from Briggs & Stratton. Use a 10MM socket to smack a new one on. They're not designed to be reused. And they do offer rebuild kits for those starters.

If it's manual PTO engagement, then that engine should practically run forever unless it has an electric fuel solenoid (which I'm sure it does), but that solenoid shouldn't drain a charged battery that's in good shape that quick.

It's possible that your voltage regulator is probably toast if it's only allowing 15-20 minutes of run time on a fully charged battery, but I'm leaning more to the battery more than anything. You need to perform a load test on the fully charged battery. The voltage regulator will be a square box on the side of the engine with two yellow wires and one red. Red "should" be going back to the starter solenoid on the battery side terminal.
 
maulcruiser said:
That's just a snap ring and is only available from Briggs & Stratton. Use a 10MM socket to smack a new one on. They're not designed to be reused. And they do offer rebuild kits for those starters.

If it's manual PTO engagement, then that engine should practically run forever unless it has an electric fuel solenoid (which I'm sure it does), but that solenoid shouldn't drain a charged battery that's in good shape that quick.

It's possible that your voltage regulator is probably toast if it's only allowing 15-20 minutes of run time on a fully charged battery, but I'm leaning more to the battery more than anything. You need to perform a load test on the fully charged battery. The voltage regulator will be a square box on the side of the engine with two yellow wires and one red. Red "should" be going back to the starter solenoid on the battery side terminal.
Click to expand...

I've looked all over that engine and can't find a square box on the side of the engine. I've followed all the wires, and the only two that I can't trace all the way to the end are a set that go below the engine mount deck, and a set that go up under the Fly wheel. I assume those are the stator wires.

I have no idea what the ones going under the engine mount deck are going to. I'd have to tear down the whole damn mower to get to them.

Hopefully tonight I can have a chance to throw my fully charged battery in and fire it up. How do I check the load? I have a meter, but I really don't know how to use it. I hate electrical work. so feel free to explain to me like I'm a 2 y/o.
 
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