Riding mower issues

Unless you lose parts along the way, it won't hurt anything to give the carb a good cleaning. It does sound like its still not getting enough fuel.
 
I'd say the main jet or the emulsion tube has some trash in it, or while being stored the gasoline has gone into "phase separation," which is where it will gel inside the carburetor. This gel will not clear out unless the carb is disassembled and cleaned. I'd say you definitely would benefit from a rebuild.
 
Agreed. What about the lack of forward momentum? Motor stays running, pedal feels loose or weak sporadically. I checked the variable speed pulley and it seemed to be ok. But that might be my lack of knowledge on the pulley. The center wheel moved freely. Didn't look to be worn. I replaced the belt last year for same reason.
 
If you're losing forward momentum, either the belts are worn width-wise, or the variator isn't functioning properly or is also worn. You'll have to take the belts off and see if the center piece of the pulley will move freely top to bottom. That model is fairly common for failed variators or worn belts. Also, check to see that the spring on the secondary belt idler arm (the belt going to the actual transmission) isn't broken or otherwise loose.
 
Naaaa, but thanks. This one is doing the job for now, just slower.

Added bonus today, scored a free Stihl Kombi power head! Pretty sure it'll run if the internals aren't toast. Appears the carb is gummed up and someone gave up on it.
$340 new.
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go get a can of TruFuel, most Stihl run 50:1 mix, I switch my FS56 over last fall, has never run better. starts with 2 -3 pumps of primer and choke on first pull, and stays running. Smells like race gas too ( added bonus ) used same in a Lawn Boy I hadn't run in over 6years, added a little oil to the mix just to get it running ( LB is 32:1) again, started on 5 primer pumps ( no choke) and a good pull on the rope.

I was a bit skeptical, but factor the cost of buying, mixing, and the time searching out alcohol free fuel, and the fuel you won't use before it goes bad, the Tru Fuel is price comparable. ( $6 a quart )
 
mbalbritton said:
Fired it up let it warm up for the first time this season. Long enough the air the tires up and drive it around a little. Engaged the blades and made it about 10' and it bogged down and cut off. Fired it right back up and made it about 5'. Fired it up again and cut off when the blades were engaged. Then wouldn't fire up at all. Went from a real strong crank on a freshly charged battery to no cranking in about 15-20 or run time.
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That stalling shit sounds like a fuel problem ....maybe a jacked up carb from sitting through the winter or the fuel pump is weak.
Damn fuel nowadays is hell on small engine fuel systems.
 
On that KM110R, a new carb is fairly inexpensive (about $35-40) in comparison to the headache of rebuilding and tuning it right. Those 4-Mix engines are damn good, just be sure to keep the valves in check. Most Stihl dealers offer a valve service kit, which consists of a cover gasket and the feeler gauge that's necessary to fit their rocker design, for just a few bucks.
 
Blkvoodoo said:
go get a can of TruFuel, most Stihl run 50:1 mix, I switch my FS56 over last fall, has never run better. starts with 2 -3 pumps of primer and choke on first pull, and stays running. Smells like race gas too ( added bonus ) used same in a Lawn Boy I hadn't run in over 6years, added a little oil to the mix just to get it running ( LB is 32:1) again, started on 5 primer pumps ( no choke) and a good pull on the rope.

I was a bit skeptical, but factor the cost of buying, mixing, and the time searching out alcohol free fuel, and the fuel you won't use before it goes bad, the Tru Fuel is price comparable. ( $6 a quart )
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Dirty Little Secret, Stihl is one of our bigger clients. We have cans of Stihl Fuel and Oil hiding all over my office. Wish they were as liberal with their tools though! They are stingy bastards when it comes to their equipment. On the other hand, Husqvarna is a growing client for us and they throw all kinds of stuff at us.
 
maulcruiser said:
On that KM110R, a new carb is fairly inexpensive (about $35-40) in comparison to the headache of rebuilding and tuning it right. Those 4-Mix engines are damn good, just be sure to keep the valves in check. Most Stihl dealers offer a valve service kit, which consists of a cover gasket and the feeler gauge that's necessary to fit their rocker design, for just a few bucks.
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Ya, I saw the carbs on ebay for $38. Seeing as the throttle palte on this one was pretty corroded, I figured $40 in on this commercial grade wasn't too damn bad. Wish I had access to a spare carb just to make sure it runs before putting any money into it. Valve cover was loose, so I think someone had messed around with it at some point. If the condition of the carb is any indication, I'm thinking they didn't have a damn clue what they were doing. hopefully they were just looking around and not messing with the valves. But over all, aside from being dirty, and the housing being scratched up, it looks like it's in good shape. I can feel compression when I pull the cord.
 
So on the Stihl Trimmer, Cleaned up the Carb and got the Gunked up throttle mechanism functioning properly. Damn thing was so gummed up it wouldn't move. Opened it up and the internals "look" good. Nice a clean.

Ignition Module is working and I have spark.

fuel bulb is clear and pliable and pumps fine.

not totally certain I have good compression yet. Valves seem a little tight and I'm thinking this is my issue. Suppose to be a 0.001" clearance from what I've found, but I'll get my hands on Stihls Valve adjustment kit and make sure.

Handle controls test out fine with my meter. I get a beep in the off position and nothing in the Run or Start.

But after all that, I can't get a single sputter out of it. Shot some carb cleaner in the air intake and nothing. Either the valves are way out of wack, or they are toast or something in the internals is shot.

fingers crossed.
 
Anything like carb cleaner or ether (starting fluid) is a weed eater's worst nightmare due to the fact they rely on the oil in the gas to lubricate the rings. Especially for a new one or one that isn't used much due to the close tolerances. I have about a brand spanking new Echo (2 years of very light use) straight shaft that my brother-in-law borrowed and informed me "all he did was spray a little ether in the carb to get it to fire right up"...:kaioken: It's stuck now big as shit.

Took it to local shop (Quality mower and saw in Durham) and dude told me it will never come unstuck since the pistons on them are so fragile and it was so new. Said the only way was to try to press the piston out and gamble that the piston is the only thing that gets trashed in the process, IF you can even come up with a device to slide into the plug hole and a way to hold the motor in the press.

If you try to return a 2 cycle anything, usually the first thing they do is pull the air filter and smell. I went through a couple refurbished leaf blowers until I found the one that fired right up. Manager at Northern Tool pulled the filter and smelt it both times. He showed and told me where it's written on ALL the manuals "DO NOT USE STARTER FLUID".
 
mbalbritton said:
So on the Stihl Trimmer, Cleaned up the Carb and got the Gunked up throttle mechanism functioning properly. Damn thing was so gummed up it wouldn't move. Opened it up and the internals "look" good. Nice a clean.

Ignition Module is working and I have spark.

fuel bulb is clear and pliable and pumps fine.

not totally certain I have good compression yet. Valves seem a little tight and I'm thinking this is my issue. Suppose to be a 0.001" clearance from what I've found, but I'll get my hands on Stihls Valve adjustment kit and make sure.

Handle controls test out fine with my meter. I get a beep in the off position and nothing in the Run or Start.

But after all that, I can't get a single sputter out of it. Shot some carb cleaner in the air intake and nothing. Either the valves are way out of wack, or they are toast or something in the internals is shot.

fingers crossed.
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Valve clearance should be 0.1mm or 0.004" for any Stihl 4-Mix engine when cold.

http://golftechs.us/Reference/4.pdf
 
Borrowed a string trimmer head for the Stihl Kombi.

Went out to give this thing a run for its money. 1 pull start from cold. Nice! Then the magic started. I quickly learned the difference in a $200 Troy-Bilt 4 stroke trimmer and this Stihl trimmer. This bitch chews through the weeds without slowing down! Also realized I now need to wear long britches and safety glasses[emoji21]

This thing kicks ass!!!
 
Back to the mower today. HUGE piece of trash in the jet. Surprised this bitch ran at all! Holding it up to the light, I couldn't see any light what so ever. Cleared out and cleaned up, the bitch runs great. Even gave her a much needed bath.

Just need to replace the drive belt and variable pulley and I think I'm ready for the season.

Thanks all!
 
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