Rockeater D60 install DONE ! pics

doc said:
Looks good....
Doc
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Thanks Doc ! I could'nt have done it without Greg S. He did all the gear set ups and fab work needed for the ram assist. Plus some custom milling on the axle shaft ears for increased turning radius.
THANKS GREG !
Next up is an anti wrap bar for the rear and install a 3 core rad I scored from Upnover (Chip)

JB
 
Holy fawk.

I hope you don't plan on running that on the street.

Dcp_0003_2.jpg
 
I've run them on the street like that and I know lots of others who have too. There is a lot of material there. I run half ton chevy brakes and a 5 lug conversion now. But , I know lots and lots of people who have run them like that with no problems.
 
saf-t scissors said:
Holy fawk.
I hope you don't plan on running that on the street.


You wouldn't believe how much steel is there. I run it on the street and even the Interstate. Brakes work just fine. Got to remember I'm only stopping a Jeep not a 1 ton truck pulling a 8k load, plus discs f/r. I just wanted to show how MUCH you actually have to take off. It's quite a bit. I had to get REAL happy with the grinder. :)
Doc, next time I have an open seat you're invited to ride along. I'll even pick you up since you live just around the corner. :lol:

JB
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.....dang....now I am jealous of the 60, it really hits you with that ujoint comparision and esp the 35 spline chromoly!

Sam...wimpy 44 guy...Hinton :(
 
Rockeater said:
You wouldn't believe how much steel is there. Got to remember I'm only stopping a Jeep not a 1 ton truck pulling a 8k load, plus discs f/r.
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That's a BS answer, John. I don't care if you *think* it's okay, that's some hillbilly-ass shadetree shit to do.

Dcp_0006_2.jpg


What's holding the caliper to the truck now? Oh, that's right.... a wing and a prayer.

Buy some wheels with less backspacing, or install calipers on the truck that clear the wheels.

Edit: And they're not steel. They're cast iron.
 
Looks good JB, those axle shafts are much bigger than the 44s!

Looks like the ram has a long stroke, is it the limiting factor when you turn, i.e. it bottoms out before the knuckles hit the stops?

Gary R
 
DCP_0058_2.jpg


Is this common, with a spacer? I would imagine there's ALOT of shear stress going through that bolt.

personally, I'd make sure to use class C locking nuts, if those aren't. (commonly called grade 8 locking nuts, they do not have the nylon in them) Split washers blow...

So now..JB, you don't have the "I only have a 44" excuse anymore.. Time to get silly! :D I'm sure you'll like the 25% increase in your crawl, as well as getting rid of those damned boggers. Ya still need deeper gears though.. :flipoff2:
 
OBX Fisherman said:
Looks good JB, those axle shafts are much bigger than the 44s!

Looks like the ram has a long stroke, is it the limiting factor when you turn, i.e. it bottoms out before the knuckles hit the stops?

Gary R
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First off, Saf-T-scissors, I don't do this often but ....... :flipoff2: ...... :lol:
Just wait till ya check it out. Those calipers are inversly thicker on the other side. i.e. they get thicker where I shaved them and thinner were I didn't

Gary R. yes the ram is the limiting factor. The ram can blow the knuckles off if ya use the steering bump stops. I actually had to get a longer stroke ram due to the length of the high steer arms. The old ram was 6in, the new one is 8in. stroke.

JB
 
Rockeater said:
Just wait till ya check it out. Those calipers are inversly thicker on the other side. i.e. they get thicker where I shaved them and thinner were I didn't
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John, I know exactly what you did. It's not like I've never seen those calipers before.

It's a bad idea. You should find another way to do it. That's all I have to say about it.
 
Is this common, with a spacer? I would imagine there's ALOT of shear stress going through that bolt.

personally, I'd make sure to use class C locking nuts, if those aren't. (commonly called grade 8 locking nuts, they do not have the nylon in them) Split washers blow...

So now..JB, you don't have the "I only have a 44" excuse anymore.. Time to get silly! :D I'm sure you'll like the 25% increase in your crawl, as well as getting rid of those damned boggers. Ya still need deeper gears though.. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
Rich



The stress on that bolt (grade 8) is coming from the draglink. That's why the ram is pushing/pulling on the OTHER side (driver). So effectively the amount of stress is now 1/2 what it would be without the ram on that bolt.

I hear ya on the gettin silly thiing. I made it past the first 2 winch spots on 12 at Tellico a few weeks back before I had to winch.

What ? 5:13 gears aren't deep enough for ya ? :) I thought about gong deeper but was concerned with the size of the pinion and running an auto, I get plenty of torque. On the other hand, I actually have some decent compression braking now thanks to the 5:13s. I had 4:10s before.
And yes, but don't tell Terry M, I like the IROKs better than the Boggers. But don't forget ....... chicks dig Boggers :D

JB
 
Hey, those calipers are just fine. Don't worry about them, and hey, if they break, ya got 2 more on the other axle... hehe


rob
 
saf-t scissors said:
John, I know exactly what you did. It's not like I've never seen those calipers before.

It's a bad idea. You should find another way to do it. That's all I have to say about it.
Click to expand...

I may at some point spring for some Wilwood calipers, Corvette MC, etc, but for now, they work just fine and my rig is back on the trail. My Jeep is mostly a trailer queen anyways. As long as I can push the pedal and the Jeep stops, I'm good.
Thanks for your concern though Shawn.
JB
 
rockcity said:
Hey, those calipers are just fine. Don't worry about them, and hey, if they break, ya got 2 more on the other axle... hehe


rob
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Thanks for the vote of confidence Rob. Everybody I talked to said to do it, so I did. :p

JB
 
Rockeater said:
The stress on that bolt (grade 8) is coming from the draglink. That's why the ram is pushing/pulling on the OTHER side (driver). So effectively the amount of stress is now 1/2 what it would be without the ram on that bolt.
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Right, and that's certainly a good idea, but there's still alot of stress coming off it. The ram doesn't do squat until the steering box can't push the tires anymore...

The scenario in my mind is the tire (either one, really) hitting something that pulls the wheel to one side or the other... Besides the ram, the only thing preventing the tire(s) from going one way or the other is - the draglink, connected to the steering box.

Even if the tie rod connection holds, the forces still go through the bolt, and into the drag link... that spacer just ~doubles the force on that area on the bolt, but if it's strong enough, then you're good... I understand the desire for parallel tie rod & drag link for minimum bump steer, etc.. but MHO is that the slight angle on the drag link is worth reducing the stress on a bolt in single sheer.

The gearing thing only refers to the Th350 + NP 205 combo not having much gear in it.. Screw Disney, get a stak box! :D

"spring for a corvette MC" :confused: They're only $25, ya goober.. nothing exotic there. As long as your current MC is sized right, it doesn't matter. Speaking of brakes, couldn't you rob the calipers & rotors (dunno if the rotors match up, doubt it) off the 44, and then need just need the bracket to mount the caliper on the 60? That would be a cheep way to get the no-grind brakes on there.. Just a thought. :p
 
Actually Rich, the reason that spacer was made and installed was to keep the draglink heim joint from binding with the hysteer arm and tie rod. We cycled the suspension and found out we needed a little more clearnce there. A spare bolt is in my toolbox just in case.

Different calipers and brakets. I could and may get Greg to fab up some 3/4ton brackets like I have on the rear and use the same caliper all the way around. Shawn woudld like that. :lol: But for now, it works fine.

Stak box.......... DROOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

JB
 
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