Rockwell 2 1/2 Info Thread

worded that wrong... meant where the stub axle goes into the hub/bearings where the thrust washer is. with aftermarket greaseable joints, it's possible to run them without packing a damn tub of grease in the knuckle at least, but i would still run the boot to keep mud/water out. without boots, i think wheel bearings would go quick, as would the kingpins without constant lubing through the zerk. probably be okay if you lived out west, but not here.
 
RufusTheRam said:
worded that wrong... meant where the stub axle goes into the hub/bearings where the thrust washer is. with aftermarket greaseable joints, it's possible to run them without packing a damn tub of grease in the knuckle at least, but i would still run the boot to keep mud/water out. without boots, i think wheel bearings would go quick, as would the kingpins without constant lubing through the zerk. probably be okay if you lived out west, but not here.

Yeah, that was my thought too.
Steven and his brother both run front disks at the wheels and no boots, and consider it a trade off. They have narrowed axles and the hubs in (thus the cut knuckles). Not my choice of set-ups, but I've seen it work. They also run on the street a lot with hydro-assist. Again, it's just not my thing. But to each his own.

BTW:
Those bearing are NOT cheap. I bought one inner bearing for $32 from Boyce Equipment.
 
great pics aaron..........dirty red wants to know if your going to the aug. 12-14 ride at crackers neck, she said she needs a trail ride............i cant wait to see the MA2 at the Oct. run :beer: :beer:
 
SSWaters said:
Aaon, I run a spool in the rear now and was wondering if you've broken a rear shaft on the pavement. I'm thinking as light as my Jeep is I shouldn't have to worry about it. Just turn wide like I do now and either stay in or out of the gas when turning sharp. It sure drives straight down the highway better with a spool :) .

Scott

I haven't broken any yet. It really binds up with front and rear spools, 44's and rear steer on the blacktop too. I messed around with it for quite a while in front of the house before I took it on a trail ride (dead end street). I can't imagine you would have any problems. I would get it all bound up and hammer the gas (wanted to test the steering and links for strenght), it's really cool to watch the truck jump and flex as they break loose :D . I may have broken both of my front spring centering bolts doing that though. I don't know when they broke. The front links held the axle in place pretty good without them.
 
jrraw23 said:
Just out of curiosity nobody really clarified why pinion brakes are dangerous for the road, could someone clear that up for me?
Thanks

Its one brake doing 2 brakes job, they get hot from so much strain and can lead to brake fade. There is other reasons but i gotta run so Im sure someone will chim in.
 
From what I was told by someone using pinion brakes, the issue is that it is a disk brake. therefore always having some pressure on the rotor, it builds up heat, and it will make the seal in the pinion fail creating leaks.
 
lol

I hate it when spell check does not pick up on those type mistakes!
At least it made sense to Ricky!
 
Just out of curiosity nobody really clarified why pinion brakes are dangerous for the road, could someone clear that up for me?
besides what's been mentioned, brake fade is a huge issue also. the rotor is spinning 6.72 times faster than a wheel mounted brake, and has half the surface area (1 pinion rotor vs. two wheel rotors). you'd also have to run drive flanges on the front to maintain front axle braking, which would be a pita on the street with a locker.

max tire size on a rockwell depends on how you drive, terrain, etc. just like anything else. the majority of people will have a hard time breaking one with anything less than a 48 michelin/49 irok.
 
oh dang, i thought they could handle 52's easily, cause im wanting to run something at least that size except i hate the fact that the dang 52's are so skinny, so i was looking into some ag tires ie: 50 to 60 inch tire range except alot wider, is the rockwell not gonna be able to handle that, and I do drive pretty hard, but i don't think with that size tire how hard i hit the pedal i's gonna make it go very fast . . . . but seriously, are they really not gonna handle ag tires of that size?

oh and when i say ag I mean agricultural
 
if you haven't broken your 10 bolt with 35's yet, it'll be fine.
 
RufusTheRam said:
if you haven't broken your 10 bolt with 35's yet, it'll be fine.

I dunno what's more funny.. that, or when you said (in the other rockwell thread)

RufusTheRam said:
personally, i've only got 2 inches

:lol:
 
har har Rich:flipoff2:

is the 52" michlins on rockwells about the same comparison to a 10 bolt and 35's
yeah, i'd say that's a pretty accurate comparison... as accurate as such a comparison can be. one wild card you have to consider also is that many of the shafts in these axles are approaching 50-55 years old in some cases, and have been through who knows what kind of abuse over the years. there's always aftermarket shafts in the event of breakage.
 
RufusTheRam said:
one wild card you have to consider also is that many of the shafts in these axles are approaching 50-55 years old in some cases, and have been through who knows what kind of abuse over the years.


Yea thats a good point I never thought of. Ok thanks for the info, I probably will end up with 52's in the end since they are so cheap but I guess that ends my thoughts about ag tires, which is good cause they are so frikin expensive anyway, i just wish they made something like a 52 that was wider for the same price range
 
Has anyone here, that is running pinion brakes, ever actualy experienced brake fade? Or- pinion bearing/ seal failure?

I understand the theory here, but my rig is proving those theorys to be bullshit.

My junk is about 6500 lbs., 91 lumina rotors and calipers, 44's, and it's been on the street... I'm running DOT 4-5 ABS fluid but I don't think that makes much difference.
 
Why do you need 52 inch tires? or is it so the beach chicks think your hotter when you cruise?
 
I need to do a write up on my steering.
Basicaly the front:
stock hydroboost pump ($58)
2.5 x 8 ram Tractor supply ($75)
7.8 cu/in dan foss ($299)
Hoses ($40)
The rear:
2 x 8 ram Tractor supply ($68)
Joystick valve Tractor supply ($75)
Saubaru electric power steering pump Junkyard ($40)
Hoses ($60)
I had to extend the reservoirs of the pumps so that I had enough fluid to run an unbalanced ram.

I couldn't find something like this doing a search on their site, which admittedly sucks. Anyone have a part #, or a good photo, or something I can use when I go?
 
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