Rockwell 2 1/2 Info Thread

Picture lookin down on it, (probably have to log in to see it) cutting it where the webbing was a real pain;

This would be if you want to drill and tap your housing,

I'm gon'na cut a housing flange out shortly for drilling the chunk if you want.

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SSWaters said:
Picture lookin down on it, cutting it where the webbing was a real pain;
This would be if you want to drill and tap your housing,
I'm gon'na cut a housing flange out shortly for drilling the chunk if you want.
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what is it for? why do some people flip the chunk? is it to make a front a rear?<---( "I want to do that" )
 
to reverse what side the dshaft goes in on. I dont remember how they come, but i think its pass drop and this allows it to be drivers side.
 
jeepn-jason said:
to reverse what side the dshaft goes in on. I dont remember how they come, but i think its pass drop and this allows it to be drivers side.
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actually you flip the chuck to center the dshaft for rear steer application . to go from pass to driver drop you just turn the whole axle around. you can also swap the knuckles around to put the steering in front or behind the axle
 
Rich said:
I paid $700 each for mine, and dollar for dollar, you can't touch 'em. Locked and disc braked (at the wheels), I'm at $1900. With a pinion brake and a (welded) spool in the rear, I'm right at $1000 for a steering rear. (Wheels are a constant IMO, since you're buying new ones if you go to a 60)
You could do it even cheaper by using the Toyota caliper and Mazda disc..
Dollar for dollar, you can't touch 'em.
Pound for pound, well... it's about 50% heavier than a 60.
But yeah, the third member sticking up a little over 9" above the top of the tube does present some challenges. Patrick's came out low, and mine, well, we'll see.
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can anyone tell me year,make,and model of the toyota caliper and mazda disc. thanks
 
I used an 87 mazda b2000 rotor and 87 4cyl 4wd toyota truck caliper
 
Whoever called me about wheel centers;

Most people cut the centers out of the deuce wheels and weld them into there own wheels.

www.longswheel.com out of Jacksonville, FL will sell you just the centers from what I've been told. You need to know what outside diamenter you'll need for your wheels. (their website is sort'a slow)
 
Cool, I didn't know he was doing centers also.
 
face loaders

Hey new too the forum i just picked up a set of 2.5 ton face loaders.and apparently noone else in the world uses them can anyone tell me why they are so hard to find any info on
 
"Is anybody running Detroit or ARB lockers in there 2.5's ???"
Most people just weld them, I know a few with Detroits.

Military "Face Loaders"
Firetoy (Tim) ran some for awhile, also, I've seen a few on Chucks Trucks who run them.
All I've heard is you can put the third member in upside down to switch rotation if you need to.

Military "Top Loaders" are just easier to build off of and more plentiful. Plus there is alot of aftermarket stuff for them out there now.
 
SSWaters said:
"Is anybody running Detroit or ARB lockers in there 2.5's ???"
Most people just weld them, I know a few with Detroits.
Military "Face Loaders"
Firetoy (Tim) ran some for awhile, also, I've seen a few on Chucks Trucks who run them.
All I've heard is you can put the third member in upside down to switch rotation if you need to.
Military "Top Loaders" are just easier to build off of and more plentiful. Plus there is alot of aftermarket stuff for them out there now.
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there is a guy on Pirate running rockwell faceloaders with great success... the GM faceloaders tend to have weak links, and why ppl stay away from them...
 
FRONT HUB BRAKES
I used the USA wheel hub brake brackets since I have 16.5 wheels, bought the brackets and hub piece from Daniel. Bought the Willwood calipers, disc and pads locally cheaper. If you use these get the 1" longer studs if you want a little thread beyond your lug nuts. If you have 20" or larger wheels I would go with the F550 Calipers and School Bus rotors instead.
Front USA6X6 hub brakes I used;
USA6X6 brackets and aluminum hat adapters, He's up to $175 now on this, was like $125.
Wilwood Forged Dynalite 120-6814 around $125 each.
Wilwood Rotors 160-2894 LH & 160-2895 RH around $50 each.
(USA6X6 says use the 160-3870 &160-3871 $85 each, was told no real difference on a low speed application like this since I'm not doing any road racing)
Wilwood Polymatrix Pads 7112 D $Don't remember the price.
Front USA6X6 brakes, buy the 1" longer studs if you go this way so you will have extra lug stud thread sticking out. The USA6X6 disc adapter will use about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch up and you will have to grind one edge flat for a good fit. You will have to grind round the USA6X6 bracket edge to get it to lay flat against the hub flange.




SSWATERS you originally posted that.


I have a question about the discs. ( i am running a 17" Wheel)

I just bought a set of usa6x6 wheel brake kit. Looks like the rotors are the huge bus ones and a 17" wheel probably isnt going to work. But, if I could un-bolt these and bolt up the rotors you have listed from Wilwood and run the calipers would this work?

thanks!
 
The bus rotors are held on with longer wheel studs after the rotor is internally machined to clear the hub.

The Wilwood rotors bolt to the aluminum hat that is held onto the hub by wheel studs.

Either one you have get the longer studs so you have enough tread for the lug nut or bud nut.

I'm assuming you bought a used kit since I heard they are out of business if it is the one with the aluminum hats. If the caliper bracket centers it on either rotor for full pad engagement it should be fine. Does this help?
 
Actually, I'm running the stock studs on mine, and they don't extend beyond the face of the nut, but they don't come loose, either. My wheels are 3/8" thick but are chamfered for the lug nut.

There are better calipers available now that have more clamping power that directly replace the dynalite's.. "Dynapro 6". I haven't bought any yet, but there's not enough clamping force IMO with the dynalite's.
 
I have some more info to add. I'm sure a lot of people saw the old yellow dodge on 54" boggers at the Marsfab show & crawl Sunday...he is running rockwells with the stock drum brakes...I had been told that you couldn't run them with a hydraulic brake system since they are designed for air over hydraulic...but that is truck is proof that you can. The owner drives it on the road too. :beer:
 
maddog411 said:
I have some more info to add. I'm sure a lot of people saw the old yellow dodge on 54" boggers at the Marsfab show & crawl Sunday...he is running rockwells with the stock drum brakes...I had been told that you couldn't run them with a hydraulic brake system since they are designed for air over hydraulic...but that is truck is proof that you can. The owner drives it on the road too. :beer:
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Nobody has any thoughts about this? :driver:
 
Updated the first post with some more information/part numbers. Will edit some more shortly.

Also,
Donald Livingood (4x4Cross Mud Runner) is cutting wheel centers now, just did a nice set for Lee.

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Basically this version is a dirt track/racing rotor ($52.99 each at Summit/Jegs/Heintz or wherever). Wilwood Rotor PN 160-2894 & 160-2895 (directional vanes LH & RH).

Wilwood Caliper ($124.99 each at Summit/Jegs, cheaper used at certain places like the old muscle motorsports or Rousch used parts) Wilwood Forged Dynalite PN 120-6814.

Wilwood Polymatrix Pads 7112 Series ($40 to $170, whatever you want to spend on custom compounds).

5" X 10" X 3/8" thick metal cut to shape for caliper mount ($10 to 25) or get Mud Pro to cut them for you.

7 1/2" OD (6 1/2" ID) by 1/2" wall DOM by 3 3/8" wide ($65 delivered from Speedy Metals as of this week)(or shorter if you flipped rotor)(may have to shorten by 1/8" or so depending on how your hub was machined/cast)

18 thru 22 Gauge Shims cut to fit out of sheetmetal ($7 to 12 at Lowes/Little's Hardware/Home Depot).

Drill some holes, tap some others, buy some grade 8 bolts and mount it up.

I'm not selling kits, just throwing the info out there for whomever, if you've built your own rig you can make this setup. No welding, maybe some cutting, just grinding, some tapping, some drilling. Did all this so far with a drill press and a grinder/cutoff.

Again, weekend warrior budget I'm shooting at, if moneys no object there are numerous kits out there and you'd be running 20" wheels anyway. When you mention the machine shop it's not always a good thing, some try to break it off in you.

This is a pic of my old USA6X6 set up (out of business). I'm replacing the cast set up where the studs go thru with a DOM thru bolted spacer. The rotor bolts always back out of the cast alumnium set up and they crack. Plus the alumnium spacer shoulders sits real close on the caliper.
The caliper mount piece is the same, 3/8" thick steel. I'm guessing you could play with spacing either way a hair.
 
scott. have you heard of anybody running c103 axle chucks in the 2.5 housing? does anyone have any info on how to do it?
 
Can someone tell me about the inner hub seal on a front axle. I am replacing one and the seal I got is different from the dana axles I usually mess with. The seal looks like it fits metal on metal around the spindle and has a rubber lip that pushes against the race. Doesn't seem like a very good seal to me. The seal on the other side that I am not replacing looks more like the seals I am used to seeing that presses into the hub and spins on the spindle. Any input?
 
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