Roofing

I don't know the pitch.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1429551095.722842.jpg
 
Yep, 5/12 at most if not closer to 4/12 is your pitch... That's an easy one.

Between metal and asphalt all depends on how long you plan on owning the house. 15 years or less = asphalt. 15+ years = metal.

I'm 43 years old. My rental roof is due. I plan on keeping the house as long as I'm able but I sure as heck don't plan on getting back on a roof when I'm 58 so I'm going metal.

Metal costs about 1.5x as much in material but labor is cut in half. I don't see any "waves/ridging" going on so "IF" you know you don't have any leaks, then it's a safe bet to even slap the metal down on your existing shingles if you REALLY wanted to cut labor down.

PM me if you want the cheapest metal prices. And it's amazingly delivered to your door. My neighbor just ordered and did his and I plan on going with same place. PM because --- hint --- they are out of state. I've researched for a few years and have a few roofs under my belt so I have a pretty good idea this price will not be beat.

I did roofing for a while. If you want to give me your quotes, I'll tell you if a price is "fair". You'll find a wide spectrum between John the roofer and the World Wide Roofing Experts. But all said and done, for the most part, a roof is a roof...

I'm no longer doing roofing. But I'd consider yours if you were in Durham for it's an easy one. 2 days max for asphalt (2 helpers) and 1 day if removing asphalt and laying metal down. 1/2 day if you're just slapping metal down. Add 1/2 day and a tad to cost of materials if you wanted some metal ridge vents (recommended).

A nice "ad" if you did metal would be to drop those gutters and cover the facias (sp?) with metal. It will add quite a bit to the cost but you'll never regret it! That would best be done by a professional with good bending skills and equipment.

MAKE SURE to check your homeowner's association and municipality restrictions if you go metal!!!!
 
It's a bad idea to lay metal panels down straight on the shingles. It will void any metal roof manufacturers warranty. Over time the shingles will rub through the back side of the metal. Especially if you go with a 29ga classic rib style.

If you don't want to remove the shingles which is fine then you need to strip the roof with furring strips (cheap 1x3).

Looks like a brick ranch so I'm assuming only a valley or two at most if any. Would be an easy install for a diy guy. Flashing or building a cricket around the chimney would be the only thing you may have trouble with but nothing hard.

Price wise if you do metal then a classic rib panel covers 3' each and will run just under $2 a linear foot including all hardware needed.

I haven't bid a shingle roof in a couple years so not sure on the cost per square right now.
If you have any questions you need answers to feel free to pm me for contact info.
 
Looked at the picture again and looks (on my phone) like your chimney comes out the ridge if so then you wouldn't have to build a cricket just flash around it instead(much easier for a diy).
 
What about @JThomas isn't he still in the game?
 
YotaOnRocks said:
It's a bad idea to lay metal panels down straight on the shingles. It will void any metal roof manufacturers warranty. Over time the shingles will rub through the back side of the metal. Especially if you go with a 29ga classic rib style.

If you don't want to remove the shingles which is fine then you need to strip the roof with furring strips (cheap 1x3).

Looks like a brick ranch so I'm assuming only a valley or two at most if any. Would be an easy install for a diy guy. Flashing or building a cricket around the chimney would be the only thing you may have trouble with but nothing hard.

Price wise if you do metal then a classic rib panel covers 3' each and will run just under $2 a linear foot including all hardware needed.

I haven't bid a shingle roof in a couple years so not sure on the cost per square right now.
If you have any questions you need answers to feel free to pm me for contact info.
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Not doubting your word YotaOnRocks, but after some research, I think your thoughts are becoming "old school word of mouth" with modern "trial and error" and modern backing such as Titanium. The rubbing would not be an issue with an underlayment in between such as titanium wrap (or equal) (which is required) for the metal would not be in contact with the asphalt at all. It's even spelled out in some City Ordinances to lay Titanium and leave the asphalt before laying the the metal. Gives more heat resistance, more life to the metal due to backing support for weather such as a hail storms, most importantly it deafens the noise impact for concentrated residential applications AND it cuts back on landfill waste. I know both Planning Departments for Orange and Durham County NC wants to see the existing roofing remaining for the last 2 reasons. Both are conscious of noise and neither county currently has a landfill.

But it is specifically spelled out to use ferring strips in the high wind / coastal counties.

Also, prices are up to at least $2.10+ now. $2.30+ if you buy NC. Just counting metal, screws and underlayment, not ridges, valleys and trim.
 
You are correct about being able to put underlayment between the two. It just needs a friction barrier. Couple years ago in the triad at least they wanted it torn off or furring strips put on. Its been a couple years since I touched a residential job so it has probably changed here too.

I just priced some classic rib for my shop through Union Metal and was quoted around $1.70 a ft for everything except corners and ridges. We do buy about 1000sq of metal roofing from them a month though so I'm not sure how discounted that is.

If you do decide to tear it off there should be somewhere local that will take the shingles for free as long as no trash is mixed in.
 
Color affects cost too. I went with galvalume color (silver galvanized) for my shop roof because it was $1.50/ft vs about $2/ft for colors.
 
YotaOnRocks said:
You are correct about being able to put underlayment between the two. It just needs a friction barrier. Couple years ago in the triad at least they wanted it torn off or furring strips put on. Its been a couple years since I touched a residential job so it has probably changed here too.

I just priced some classic rib for my shop through Union Metal and was quoted around $1.70 a ft for everything except corners and ridges. We do buy about 1000sq of metal roofing from them a month though so I'm not sure how discounted that is.

If you do decide to tear it off there should be somewhere local that will take the shingles for free as long as no trash is mixed in.
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Just called my Union Metal supplier and was quoted 2.42/lf????

As for free... I see you aren't very familiar with Durham or Orange Counties.. :shaking:. It gets shipped to Virginia. NOTHING goes in there for free. You even get taxed for trash if you live in either county although pick-up is un-inclusive. Pick-up is even monopolized through the two counties. No "private" trash collections allowed. My rate right now (If I choose) is set at $33.50 / month extra if I want 1 residential solid waste container (typical roll around deal). "Waste Management" a division of City of Durham is my only available choice. None of the "Convenient Drop Off Facilities" will accept asphalt shingles. If you call Durham, they will point you to the "Drop off Facility HQ on Club Blvd. I don't do many roofs any more but I still hire out my dump truck and just dropped a load last week.

Must be cheaper and also more relaxed over there in WS all I can say... I'll be purchasing metal in the next few months for my rental and I'd gladly jump on board for anyone who can beat $1.98 delivered from TN.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Color affects cost too. I went with galvalume color (silver galvanized) for my shop roof because it was $1.50/ft vs about $2/ft for colors.
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That's wierd? Galvalume is always extra?? Any of the sprayed on colors is cheaper but the same price.

Are ya'll getting some kind of "member with an account" quotes or something??? For this thread's sake (chromerunner's and mine) I've called probably 60 suppliers in the last few weeks. If you can beat $1.98/lf for ANYTHING ribbed at 3' wide please give a reference...

Sincerely! I'll even send you a 6 pack of your favorite!!!! I have a job coming up and $1.50-$1.70 would save me hundreds...

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
The place around here that takes shingles for free is some kind of asphalt place. They shred the shingles up and use them for something. They have nothing to do with waste management.

As for the metal cost that was me calling the sales rep we deal with and telling him it is for my personal place and to hook me up. We only install 22ga standing seam metal on commercial stuff so I don't know what they would normally bill us a lf for classic rib.

We did a fidelity bank down in Rockingham over the winter. It was done with 22ga standing seam copper. Talk about pricey.
 
6BangBronk said:
That's wierd? Galvalume is always extra?? Any of the sprayed on colors is cheaper but the same price.

Are ya'll getting some kind of "member with an account" quotes or something??? For this thread's sake (chromerunner's and mine) I've called probably 60 suppliers in the last few weeks. If you can beat $1.98/lf for ANYTHING ribbed at 3' wide please give a reference...

Sincerely! I'll even send you a 6 pack of your favorite!!!! I have a job coming up and $1.50-$1.70 would save me hundreds...

:beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
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I got mine from Jet Metals in Rock Hill, SC (just south of Charlotte). http://www.jetmetals.com/
No special pricing, just a guy off the street looking for metal for his roof.
That was 29 gauge, 26 gauge is a little more expensive, but for your application, the thickness won't make a difference. My purlins are 2ft apart and I can still walk on it.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I got mine from Jet Metals in Rock Hill, SC (just south of Charlotte). http://www.jetmetals.com/
No special pricing, just a guy off the street looking for metal for his roof.
That was 29 gauge, 26 gauge is a little more expensive, but for your application, the thickness won't make a difference. My purlins are 2ft apart and I can still walk on it.
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$1.92 / FT
Delivery is same as my TN connection, like $8 more.

Not much but still saves me $41.60. And the chic had an extremely sexy voice. :cool: Straight to the point.

That's worth a 6... Can anybody else beat that?
 
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