Rust Prevention

Futbalfantic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2006
Location
Charlotte
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So I need to make a part and apply a coating for rust prevention and looking for the best and most cost effective route.

It is a catch pin for a swing away tire carrier. It’s going to see a lot of abuse and impacts.

So what’s the best route?

As an aside. What plating is this?
 
There is virtually no coating that you are going to apply yourself that will not be worn off by that application.
My first design concept would be to use a material that will not rust.
Absent that @braxton357 probably has the semi easiest route.

Now @Fabrik8 will come in here and tell us we are idiots by using long fancy word and suggest some coating that is theoretical in nature only and costs 7 unobtanium amounts of dollars.
 
After posting that I thought it would be funny to continue because im in the mood.

@UTfball68 will tell you he used to work for a company that developed the right coating and not to listen to Bruncle Daddy know it alls.
@jeepinmatt will suggest heat treating it. With open flames of course
@CasterTroy will tell you to rattle can it. But use Sherwin Wlliams SW6258 only
@shawn thinks its all a strawman that the part staying shiny or rusting is a false dichotomy and you need to pay an architect to design it
@Jody Treadway thinks it should be made of wood. Fie Retardant only, of course.
@Paul will tell you if you use the damn thing enough you will keep the rust knocked off it. He said thats what works for his peter and tried to show me once but...I didnt wait around to hear the rest
@palmetto zuk says you should put body fluids on it and has pictures to demonstrate the proper application
@REDLYNER thinks it needs to be color matched anodized chrome coated with hair product
@RatLabGuy will teach us the science of rusting
@XJsavage will tell you that rust is only a state of mind and that if you achieve a higher consciousness it will not rust

who did I leave out?
 
Ron said:
After posting that I thought it would be funny to continue because im in the mood.

@UTfball68 will tell you he used to work for a company that developed the right coating and not to listen to Bruncle Daddy know it alls.
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Well...I mean...I didn’t work there...but I do have a buddy that has a business in his holdings company that does the stop leak/gasket sealer/rust stop automotive products.

Edit...beyond that, I damn near refuse to touch a vehicle that has por15 on it because it’s so difficult to remove. And as long as you’re rust free bare metal and properly apply, rust should never be an issue.
 
Ron said:
Now @Fabrik8 will come in here and tell us we are idiots by using long fancy word and suggest some coating that is theoretical in nature only and costs 7 unobtanium amounts of dollars.
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Almost. Hard chrome on soft steel won't hold up to repeated point impacts (where the edge of the tube contacts the pin, etc) and will flake/spall. Same thing with PVD and DLC coatings, even though they adhere better than hard chrome. See, I had to at least mention the fancy shit.
I don't think I call anyone idiots though, I like you guys too much. Well, except for the idiots.

For such a low-tech application like this, I'd make the pin out of stainless if you're worried about corrosion resistance. Even though it's usually slightly softer than generic steels, it will last many years, and then you can replace it if you need to. Stainless is a lot harder than the powdercoat that's going to get destroyed at that mating surface, which is the place that's going to have the corrosion problem.

We're talking about the ramped latch in the picture, right?
 
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Yeah the ramped latch.

Will the zinc plating come off like chrome? What about nickel plating?

I may go with stainless. $$ in stock or $$ in the after treatment
 
Ron said:
@CasterTroy will tell you to rattle can it. But use Sherwin Wlliams SW6258 only
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o_O
I thought you knew me better


Use tire shine. But not JUST tire shine. Use McGuires foaming tire shine :flipoff2:
 
Futbalfantic said:
Yeah the ramped latch.

Will the zinc plating come off like chrome? What about nickel plating?

I may go with stainless. $$ in stock or $$ in the after treatment
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Stainless will generally be a smaller cost increase than getting small quantity plating services on a ferrous steel part, assuming the part is small.

The zinc and nickel platings are different than chrome in that they are softer, which can make it less prone to flaking off, but the softness also makes it easier to damage so you lose the corrosion protection. Zinc and nickel are mostly for corrosion protection and not the additional properties that chrome has (like hardness or anti-wear).
 
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My vote was going to be for PVD or chrome, but I like the stainless idea better.
 
To piggy back on this thread.

I'm need to build a axle for my boat trailer. I have a galvanized 2x2 square tube to use as well as a plain steel tube. Both are 2x2 0.25 wall. I'll be welding the spindles on myself.

I know welding to galvanized is extremely dangerous. Prefer to not die.

If I use the plain steel, I need to protect it from the salt water some how.

Any recommendations?
 
Welding to galvanized isn't extremely dangerous at the hobbyist level. Use proper ventilation, respirator, or just drink milk afterwards.
 
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Welding to galvanized is fine, just wear respirator and use a fan to draw the fume plume away from you to the side.

I’m not sure what stainless is softer than generic Steels. Every type of stainless I’ve ever worked with was harder that “generic” mild steel,

Id see how long the zinc coating lasts, then try steel it coating, or ceracoat.

Grease it and don’t worry for a couple years haha
 
1020 cold roll Is pretty similar in strength and hardness to 304. Most people think It's harder /tougher because they drill and cut it with feeds way too slow and work harden it. Took me a long time to learn to slow the drill down and push hard as hell. That being said it can't be heat treated so will always be considered soft.
Something as cheap as annealed 4140 would be a lot better choice.
 
Mac5005 said:
I’m not sure what stainless is softer than generic Steels. Every type of stainless I’ve ever worked with was harder that “generic” mild steel,
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You're right, and I should have specified (I didn't say "mild"). Not softer than generic mild steel, no. I was assuming that most anything used there would be hardened for wear resistance, which you wouldn't do if you just machined it out of 3xx or whatever grade of stainless. Probably a bad assumption for an aftermarket piece though, designed to a price point. At least I assume that's aftermarket from the wrinkle powdercoat and very simple (crude?) latch design?
 
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Fabrik8 said:
At least I assume that's aftermarket from the wrinkle powdercoat and very simple (crude?) latch design?
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Always impresses me when people notice things like the wrinkle in the powder coat. Didn’t notice it until you said something.

What is an improved latch design?
 
Leave it to NC4x4 to over complicate a simple problem. All you need to do move out west where nothing rusts.

Just put some high tack grease on the contact area's and rock out. When rust begins to propagate then scuff and paint. Being a Jeep there's a dozen other thing's that will begin to rust before this becomes an issue.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Leave it to NC4x4 to over complicate a simple problem. All you need to do move out west where nothing rusts.

Just put some high tack grease on the contact area's and rock out. When rust begins to propagate then scuff and paint. Being a Jeep there's a dozen other thing's that will begin to rust before this becomes an issue.
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I'm still pro POR15, especially if it's a personal recreational rig. If you're going for a show stopper or high dollar customer build, ok let's get creative...but I don't think that's what's going on here. Hell, if it were the tire carrier latch on my personal bronco, I'd just get some .99 wrinkle paint from WalMart...reapply as needed.
 
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