SAS for daily driver

I disagree, a properly setup SAS will ride just as good if not better than a IFS. Driving my dad's stock IFS Taco, it seems to have a very soft suspension and alot of sway, I won't say MY truck is better than it, but a fairly low (5" or less lift) SAS'd truck with good shocks and springs (and a good alignment) will likely ride better than IFS (especially lifted IFS).
BUT I do agree partly, if it will never see off-road, it is a waste of time/money to put an SAS in it.
well fine Michael just rain my my trucks shitty parade...maybe i drive a piece of :poop: :flipoff2:. all i was tryin to say was setting it up well to make it drive better than stock is expensive and if your not gonna wheel it whats the point. keeping it low going with links and coilovers can get pricey, and with my broke college setup it rides pretty tall and leans like a ho around turns and doesnt stop to good and having unbalanced 37s can get old. all im saying is if i didnt wheel this thing it would make me shoot myself because there would be no reason to put up with its shitty SA tacoma tendencies when toyota had it setup right for the road to begin with. as for the older gen ifs pickups im sure they didnt ride as nice as tacos so i dont know about that comparison. im happy with my trail performance which is more important to me than how it drives on the road.
 
Get some Bilsteins, that will make a BIG difference.

Not sure why your brakes suck though, mine were fine with the D44. If you have a 4-bolt MC stock, you can upgrade to the Chevy 2-bolt pretty easily if you the the MC is the problem. I *think* the 98' model trucks have a 2-bolt MC though...
 
my bro drives an 01 sas taco, Michael, my bro and I did the swap in a weekend. It may not ride as good as it did stock, but it definately rides better than 5in of lift on IFS. To be honest it rides awsome. He drives it everyday, and he drives a lot. Nothing too trick about the setup, just a basic leaf sprung waggy 44 with some bilstein 5150s.
 
i got billys and yea i mean it drives fine and i am happy with it. i knew what i was getting into when i did it and if it was really that bad i would get some little honda or something to drive everday. i love my truck and wouldnt trade it for anything. it does everything i want it to do. stops ok but it wont lock up the tires or anything. also doesnt have much peddle pressure but that doesnt concern me to much. i vote SAS the truck if your gonna wheel it. if not get ya a gay drop bracket lift and mall wheel it.
 
go ahead and solid axle the truck. I ran my 91 toyota pickup for about 4 years with the sas and wouldnt change a thing. A couple of those years it had 3/4 tons and i drove it daily. Oh and i ran 38's with stock gears and stock 4 cyl. for a couple years, and it would run pretty good at 70 mph. I gaurantee you wont regret doing it, so go ahead.

If you have some fab skills and a welder it can be done pretty cheap. Just throw some rear springs up front, high steer, a body lift and some 36's and hammer it. And before someone says something about a body lift my toyota has run a 3" body lift for 15 years and NEVER had a problem, so until i have a problem i will keep using a body lift.

Ive had toyotas and jeeps and i would rather push a toyota than drive a jeep. Im sorry to be so blunt but i really dont like jeeps. My toyota pickup has been hammered for longer than most people on here have known what wheeling is and it takes every bit of it with little or no problems. I know everyone has their opinion and thats just mine, so lets see what kind of fight this starts.
 
I'd do it!! I just got a new to me truck(88 pu) and the first thing I did was an sas. I did it all for around 200$, the only thing I bought was the axle and shocks, thats drivin in with ifs and drivin it out with a solid axle!! As far as time goes I pulled in at about 5:00pm Friday and out at about 2:30am Saturday morning cuz we were goin wheelen sat. The longest part was cutting all the ifs stuff out. I used rears up front and i could clear my 37" boggers. Heres a link to some pics http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=85803681&albumId=0
Its the black one. Plus I had to point it out to my dad b\c he couldn't tell anything had been changed.:Rockon:
Landon
 
Don't take the advice above. Stick with the Toyota and put a solid axle in it. It is pretty easy to do in 95 and older Toy's. Although I would just buy an axle that someone is upgrading from that already has hi-steer and has been rebuilt, and I wouldn't waste the money on an All-Pro kit, all of the brackets and such can be made easily.
EDIT: No offense to anyone- Just think it would be a better idea to SAS a Toyota than to buy a Jeep and spend the same amount (if not more) to lift it...


i agree :flipoff2:
 
Back to your original question before it turned into Toy vs. Jep. Yes it can be done, on Toys, Rangers, B2's, Z71's, on and on. Aftermarket support is also available. You can however do or pay for a poor riding hack job that may or may not be safe. I've done a few swaps along with several others on the board. Ask yourself what your budget is and how well you fabricate and weld. Its not a bolt on affair even in kit form, and you probably will have some related rebuilding of donor parts. Do some research and remember its your safety and others your messin with. With skills and or money (which ever fits your case) it can be done with great benifits.
 
Wow found this old thread and YES no matter what anyone says a SAS swap with good shocks and and springs it rides way better than IFS!Its funny looking back on this thread and knowing what i know now!
 
hahah i wana be the first guy to say find an old 3/4 ton chevy pick up. basically bolt in swap for dana 60/14 bolt FF combo. since you drive to the base i bet you could find a spanking deal on axles out of a military pickup......although you will get used to driving 60mph on the highwy reallllllllllly fast
 
It all comes down to money IMO. Yea you can lift a jeep cheap and yea you can SAS the yota. A well set up suspension with the right steering on a yota will be much better in the long run. Jeep unit bearings and ball joints are not adequate enough for anything bigger than a 31" tire. I dont know many jeeps that dont need new bearings every 6 months with a tire bigger than that. About the only way to get them to last is to use a 7 or 8 in positive offset wheel to keep the load off the bearings but then they look stupid. Almost every SAS's yota out there has 1" spacers on the front and negative offset wheels and how often do see anyone replacing the bearings in them. Spend the money to do it right with good parts and you'll never look back.
 
What he said. I'd rather drive a cobbled together SAS'd yota than a piece of shit. :flipoff2:


must agree, IMHO i'd reather drive/wheel a rusted out toy with no doors and half ass SAS sitting bald 33s than drive HEEP:fuck-you:
 
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