SBC 350 HELP/THOUGHTS....

C.Berry

C.Berry

Bad News
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Location
Blacksburg, Va
Ok situation is now...
took off valve covers to adj valves and found a rocker unseated from spring and push rod bent... took rocker off pulled rod looked at rocker stud and it had been almost cut in half from the rocker sooooo i try pullin the stud out it broke go damn figure, well i have engine broke down head off and was wondering if any of you fella ever had to deal with this? about a 1/8 in of the stud is still visible so need to figure out how to get it out so i can tap for screw in studs b/c the engine has aftermarket cam and i blame it and PO for this happening and myself for not lookin before now!!!:shaking: Any suggestion would help trying not to damage the head cause they are in really good shape from what i see so far thanks in advance. All of yall have helped with alot of my Q's so i came here first lol :beer::confused::beer::beer:
 
Come on i know there is another machinist who can help me out on this also realized need new valve seats and its cast heads not alum... i know those have to be machined anyone had to do this on a old 350?
 
Can you weld a bolt to the stud and then use the bolt had to get some twisty action?
 
Yeah thought about welding bolt on but not enought there really... I already have the head off the engine i have access to the machine shop i was cert at but wonderin if i should just drill hole in middle of stub and beat it out or what?
 
If it drops down into where the stud goes not sure how id get it out is my concern!
 
grind the top of the stud flat with a small grinder. Drill and tap the top of the stud so you can screw a small bolt into it. Heat the boss around the stud. When it is nice and hot, melt candle wax on the stud so it runs down the stud and into the gap between the 2. It works too good to believe.
Use a pair of vice grips and rotate/pull it out.
 
I machined it and working on tappin it now... Nctom ive never heard of doing that with the wax before makes sense tho...Thanks fellas
 
Old farts know stuff... I listen to them:lol: Works good on welch plugs in a engine block too.
 
:beer:Yeah up still on this half engine overhaul wondering if my valves are still good and im reusing them do i have to lapp/grind the valves to get rid of bad valve seat or am i gonna have to go back to mach shop and mill more? wouldnt milling into the seat cause breakage its late i could be overthinking this...:beer::beer:
 
anyone know about lapping valve seats should i use the tube of paste or do i have to use a machine shop?
 
You can do it yourself if you can get ahold of the lapping compound and machinists blue. Just clean up the seats good the apply a lil bit of blue to the seat. The apply a lil bit of compound to the valve and spin back in forth until theres a clean ring around the seat. You can either use a lapping tool $$ or just use a piece of hose zip tied to the top of the valve. Also use little pressure when doing it.
 
Ahhh yeah wasnt wanting to buy a sucker tool for this really thanks gonna get some blue and get back to work
 
If you have a reverseable drill, chuck the valve stem in it and go from forward to reverse with it. Pull the valve into the seat with medium to light pressure and flip it from F to R. Saves a lot of elbow grease.

Color each valve stem and seat area with a sharpie and use that for machinist dye. You can study the stem to see if it is bent by where the color rubs off on a high spot and leaves it in a low spot.

Clean the valves good on a grinder wire bush. If the lips of the valve are very thin or the seats are hammered down, dont bother trying to use them. Get them built, or find another set.

The valve guides will be worn as well, but you can have those "Knurled" at a machine shop for cheap and they will work fine.
 
Pull both heads send em to a good machine shop and have em fixed rite before you waste money trying to patch it up.It will be worth it in the long run. if thats not an option just put another head on it.
 
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