selling your rig? not here unless you're popular...

Redneck92 said:
Multiplied by whatever your first gear in your trans in, also multiplied by 1.5 to account for the the slip in the torque converter.
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This dude can't grasp that concept.
 
2.8x2.72x2.72x3.55=73.54 <crawl ratio based on just mechanical gearing. 2.8x1.5x2.72x2.72x3.55=110.31 <crawl ratio based on torque converter slip
 
ok i'm learning, so what is the torque conv. slip talk and why is it diff. and what does it affect compared to the other way of not adding that.
 
hey I know this isn't the thread for it but real quick, anyone got old 31s, 33s,35s anything layin around for cheap all worn out
 
Basically the output speed of your engine is going to be different(higher) than the input speed of your transmission below the stall speed of your torque converter. That is where you get the 1.5 ratio from. When the engine is operating above the torque converter stall speed then your crawl ratio is the first ratio(73.54:1). Clear as mud?
 
Redneck92 said:
Basically the output speed of your engine is going to be different(higher) than the input speed of your transmission below the stall speed of your torque converter. That is where you get the 1.5 ratio from. When the engine is operating above the torque converter stall speed then your crawl ratio is the first ratio(73.54:1). Clear as mud?
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thank you sir! now I can better grasp the entire concept of gearing and ratios and such. thanks
 
I got another serious tire question. these 235s Michelin are a 5 ply tire so how worried would I be to puncture them compared to a mud terrain 33,32,31" 6 ply, the trail I made is clear but not completely as far as little roots and little junk (undriven) woods basically.
 
keep psi up to full or keep it lower at 15, I haven't gone in the woods with stock tires in a long long time so I kinda worry
 
bear-grylls-meme-generator-chat-s-getting-pointless-better-drink-my-own-piss-ea6c63.jpg
 
ha ha, I was being serious though. higher psi on stock tires like that or lower to help form around the crap and less easier to puncture
 
88jeepster said:
the only kinda of tug-a war I know of is start from a taunt line and from a taunt line, any 4x4 common sense would know a doubler against a regular t-case off taunt line pull...........doubler would win not only from the mathematics but the brains also, not to mention a motor behind it with almost double torque. tug a war with slack in the line.......ARE U FU//IN KIDDIN ME, i'd be an idiot to tug a war with slack in the chain on a XJ unibody. that's just stupidity for anyone unibody or not, you only wish I was that dumb.
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I said nothing about useing a chain.............. You use your mathematics, I'll use physics and the theory of motion. Your doubler might pull you up a cliff, but I think a tugowar would really test the rest of you drivetrain, a test it would prolly fail. My lil Toy has yanked many a fullsizes out of many deep holes w a running start.
 
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Tug of war comes down to traction, period. I don't care if you have a 5000 to 1 crawl ratio, if you're in a 4000lb cherokee, and I'm in a 7000lb diesel, and the surfaces have the same static coefficient of friction, the cherokee can keep those wheels spinning at idle while the truck drags it all over the place.
 
Hurley said:
Don't forget hitch height differential and angle between rope and ground - 'lifting' your opponent is also advantageous
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Very true, but I think we're already pushing the envelope with numbers, not sure if we should introduce geometry :lol:
 
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