Snappys toy box....aka a garage build.

snappy

snappy

YHDG's adopted son!!!
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Jun 19, 2007
Location
high point
Me and my stepdad are building us a workshop. 38x42 with 12 foot lean to on each end.
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12 foot ceilings so i can add a lift. 2 doors etc etc
 
Subbed, I like it so far and I'm bout ready to do the same. Still collecting info and weighing out building types. You got any insight on how you narrowed down your choice of building type? Or was this method of beam/traditional framing structure always what she was going to be?? Excited to see what your siding and roof support structure will be.
 
Really easy... We bought a pole barn from our neighbor. Eng rafters with tin roof for $600. We are doing them with 12' 6x6 With 2x12 headers.
 
Well keep the picks coming I need some cheep blueprints! I could build an entire friggin fire truck, but for some reason all the building choices, building, code/inspection/permits and styles leaves me shuffling my feet and scratching my damn head. I can't seem to focus in on what I'm going to do other than keep saving money. Right now my budget is running around 15K and I'm certain I'd like to do all the finish work, but leary of trying to one man army the big stuff.
 
Save some room for the Meth lab. Er, uh...
Our joint business venture.
:rolleyes:
 
Any underground plumbing or electrical or will it be added later? I'd love to build a big shop one day with full living space upstairs in a loft area. Gathering ideas!
 
No plumbing but we are running power from the pole that they put in for the pool, 200 amp service
 
snappy said:
Me and my stepdad are building us a workshop. 38x42 with 12 foot lean to on each end.

12 foot ceilings so i can add a lift. 2 doors etc etc
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Very nice. I just finished up (well, its never finished) my 34x40 with a 20ft shed off one end. Its a pole barn with 6x6's and steel trusses every 10ft. Let me know if you need help with anything.
 
When you get ready to do the electrical, the town of Cary has the 2007 NEC .pdf on their website. I saved it to my computer when I was building my shop. Really came in handy because I ran all of my electrical in conduit on the outside of my walls for maintenance/future expansion.
 
When it comes time for inspection, it will get the box with one outlet dropped below the box and done..... Well for inspection that is.
 
Gotcha. I had to have a meter put on mine due to the location of the feed for my house. I needed everything wired to have the load sheet done for Duke so they would feed my meter base with the right size feeder.
 
We have a 250 amp service at the pool house( 10x20 prefab shed) we are going to run 0 ga up to this about 100yards away...
 
I had all my wiring done before inspection except the phase converter. It was a breeze, except I had to add an outside light over both entry doors. Kind of stupid if you ask me, especially considering I didn't even have walls on yet.

Also, Duke ran mine for free, about 100ft from the transformer to the meter. I already have 48 kva service, but I wanted to have dedicated lines from the transformer. Instead of going 100ft to the house and then 200ft to the shop. Only downside is the ~$20 month minimum charge. But it would have been about a grand in wire plus trenching...
 
jeepinmatt said:
I had to add an outside light over both entry doors.
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I remembered you talking about this when you built your shop. I asked the inspector directly about if I needed a light over my entry door. He told me no. I kinda wish I had put one there now.

My shop is only 25' from the pole. Duke didnt charge me for anything except the monthly power bill. I didnt want to run my shop off my house panel. My house is a 200A feed and my shop is also a 200A. Something about dimming lights inside the house while welding dosent sit well with me.
 
Just curious about what the pad cost to have done ? Also did it require footings or did you just pour a thick pad ? I want to build a shop out on my land.
 
retroedaddy said:
Just curious about what the pad cost to have done ? Also did it require footings or did you just pour a thick pad ? I want to build a shop out on my land.
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We did the work ourselves. $2700 for concrete and 3 cases of beer for finishing. 4" thick and the last 2 ft we sloped to 5.5" all reinforced.
 
snappy said:
We did the work ourselves. $2700 for concrete and 3 cases of beer for finishing. 4" thick and the last 2 ft we sloped to 5.5" all reinforced.
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So 4" is the going depth to carry the weight of a vehicle ? Also why the 5.5" slope at the outsides ? For strength to carry the walls ? I was thinking of just pouring the entire thing 6", does having the center 4" save that much concrete ?
 
retroedaddy said:
So 4" is the going depth to carry the weight of a vehicle ? Also why the 5.5" slope at the outsides ? For strength to carry the walls ? I was thinking of just pouring the entire thing 6", does having the center 4" save that much concrete ?
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That is the way dad wanted to do it so thats the way it is!! Lol it has rebar and fiberglass in the mix. I think the slope was to make up for not having footings...
 
retroedaddy said:
So 4" is the going depth to carry the weight of a vehicle ? Also why the 5.5" slope at the outsides ? For strength to carry the walls ? I was thinking of just pouring the entire thing 6", does having the center 4" save that much concrete ?
Click to expand...
Ok asked dad and he went back and leveled it all to 5.5". I was not here the day it was poured. He used 2x6 for the form and went back and dug out the rest with the tractor and used the transit to check it all.
 
snappy said:
Ok asked dad and he went back and leveled it all to 5.5". I was not here the day it was poured. He used 2x6 for the form and went back and dug out the rest with the tractor and used the transit to check it all.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, thanks that is helpful.
 
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