Spray in beadliner

Jason W.

Jason W.

Dysfunctional Veteran
Joined
Feb 27, 2009
Location
nebo nc
Looking to get rid of the crappy plastics beadliner in my truck. Which spray in liners are best, who in Asheville, Morganton does a good job.

Is doing it myself a good option and with what product?
 
Out of all the trucks I've owned and work trucks I've had linex is hands down the best it has the most durable coating, isn't easy peeling like some bed liners and really strengthens the bed of the truck.
 
It's not worth it to do it yourself. The stuff out there isn't as good and you can't get it as thick as they spray it unless you do several coats

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
LIne-X hands down, the only thing that really eats it is acetone so keep that in mind

Prep of the surface to be sprayed is the key to any of the spray ins, a crappy prep will yield crappy performance in any of the brands . I like Line-X mostly because of the texture when finished
 
Anybody have Rhino liner brand, seems to be a ton of places near me that do them, nearest line x is in canton.
 
My power stroke has rhino lining. I like it that said I haven't had a different name brand bed liner in anything else I've owned. Truck is 15 years old suspect it's been in there since near new. There is a couple spots where it's been cut by something and a small piece has come off. (Nickel size)

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Jason W. said:
Anybody have Rhino liner brand, seems to be a ton of places near me that do them, nearest line x is in canton.
Click to expand...

My 98 Dodge Ram had a rhino lined bed put in by the dealer. I never had an issue with it other than some discoloration when I accidentally dumped a bunch a of used motor oil in the bed. I also had a Linex in my last two trucks. Never had an issue with either brand. Can't comment on any discoloration on the Linex because I learned my lesson and got more careful when returning waste oil.
 
Last one I had done I used Rhino over Line-X just because it had a slightly more rubbery/grippy feel to it so dog or stuff would slide less. I'd do either and be happy.
 
The Line-X in my old 2002 silverado is still doing it's job, hasn't faded, nor worn down. (pop's still has that truck)

I bought the truck new and had the liner put in the day after I brought it home
 
I've put raptor liner in many vehicles, it is a solid product, and way cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
 
I line-exd mine and it is so much better than the plastic drop in
 
I'm a little partial to Scorpion, that's what I spray in the shop on/in the Jeeps and in the bed of my trucks.

Line-X is pretty tough but I hate the smooth texture. I swear the stuff is slicker than the painted metal in a new truck bed. I once bought a truck that had Line-X in it and it was tough, but everything I put in the bed slid everywhere. It was also all gray and chalky (old Line-X faded with UV, maybe new stuff is better?) so I sprayed a Scorpion liner over it and was much happier.
 
Between line x and rhino I'd concentrate more on reputation of the installer than the product. They're both hot applied hard curing coatings now, not like the soft surface rhino used to be.I just had rhino done in my truck.
 
Blaze said:
Line-X is pretty tough but I hate the smooth texture. I swear the stuff is slicker than the painted metal in a new truck bed.
Click to expand...


Mine was anything but smooth....in fact, if you made the mistake of getting on your knees in the bed, you'd lose skin
 
CasterTroy said:
Mine was anything but smooth....in fact, if you made the mistake of getting on your knees in the bed, you'd lose skin
Click to expand...

Maybe yours had something added in to it? Some kind of aggregate? This was also older Line-X, probably 10 years old. Things might have changed. I know when the bed of that truck was wet you better watch the hell out. :lol:
 
My line-x is like sand paper, it will take the skin off of you if you are not careful
 
The gubment uses linex on many military applications, if rhino is closer you might be fine with that I wouldn't go the diy route though, I've seen truck beds have a gummy bear like texture that sticks to everything
 
when i took the carpet out of my 97 TJ i used the Duplicolor truck bed coating with kevlar to make it not so slick just on the floorboards..

it has been a year now and the drivers floorboard where my heel rests for the gas pedal (the same place that always wears thru on floormats) has come off the rest of the jeep looks great..

i found that using a brush and "stippling" it on produced a much bettr texture and thicker coating.. but i dont think i would use it in the back of a truck that is exposed to the elements and abuse from hauling stuff
 
Blaze said:
Line-X is pretty tough but I hate the smooth texture. I swear the stuff is slicker than the painted metal in a new truck bed.
Click to expand...

Are you sure you're not thinking of the old Rhino liner? Been using Line-X for ten or 12 years, and it's softish and rubbery with a coarse texture.
 
shawn said:
Are you sure you're not thinking of the old Rhino liner? Been using Line-X for ten or 12 years, and it's softish and rubbery with a coarse texture.
Click to expand...

No, it was definitely Line-X. Stuff was hard as a rock and smooth. I eventually tore it out of the bed with a crowbar because it started lifting. Maybe there are different product lines? Or maybe just a shitty installer? Who knows.
 
Texture for either is in the application. The man behind the gun controls 90 percent of this on all the newer stuff. Distance and application gets the texture. All you do for more grit is spray higher and feather the material. Sort of like flashing in paint, just was less soluble. The reaction and cooling starts airborn and hardens up enough to create a grit. Closer in less time, closer contact, better blending.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Texture for either is in the application. The man behind the gun controls 90 percent of this on all the newer stuff. Distance and application gets the texture. All you do for more grit is spray higher and feather the material. Sort of like flashing in paint, just was less soluble. The reaction and cooling starts airborn and hardens up enough to create a grit. Closer in less time, closer contact, better blending.
Click to expand...
What he said...

I have my own Qwikliner system that I've been spraying for personal use about 3 years. You can slick it like paint if you stay close, our stipple it like 30 grit sandpaper if you back the tip up 6-7 feet. I typically do 2 coats fairly close, then texture on last coat. On this brand, the "rounder" the grit, the more grip. The more coarse, more slide. Less surface area, less surface tension= less grip.

Other brands may vary.

Matt
 
Last edited:
Back
Top