suggestions for a 1st rig?

Lizooki said:
But I'll bet most are giving props to what they run themselves.
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I would say that statment is right one the money. We all like different things about our chosen rides. Each type has there good and bad points. If your Starting out then most likey budget is very important. Know matter what you choose they will all cost you more and more money as time goes buy. If you look for something that someone has allready done some upgrades to then you may be able to bypass some of the costs.

of course the Zuk guys want more if there kind on the trails and so do us FSJ guys. There are plenty of little jeeps not sure if we need any more though....LOL
 
Lizooki said:
I'll bet most are giving props to what they run themselves.
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Well, that makes sense.. before someone started wheeling their rig, chances are, they had a choice on what to buy. Hopefully they considered the options like Teamtiger is trying to do, and then picked what fit their needs best. ;)

My $.02 - buy something already slightly built, BUT... Look over every single item the seller modified with someone who knows what to look for, and walk if you don't like what you see. Selling a modified rig is a buyer's market.

I bought my FJ as a trail rig, so what was important to me was a solid frame, and the hard parts being good (axles, driveline, a cage, etc.), and the accessories could be taken care of later. It had crossover steering, the v8/465/205, a cage, 4-wheel discs, a little lift, 35's, armor all around, and it was locked F&R. It was a great out-of-the-box wheeler, and was way more than I could drive to its limit at that point. The body was just so-so, and it was left sitting for 2 years. But, I know who did the important swap stuff, and his work is solid.. so I bought it.

I paid $6000. If the same was done to a Jeep, it could have been scooped up cheaper, but FJ's command a bit of a premium.

I was this close ---><--- to buying a built Toy minitruck with a similar amount of mods, but it was a 4-popper, and had no armor or a winch.

It's all about what fits your style. I have a ton of respect for a built Sami, and they can work damn well because of their weight, but it's just not my thing.. A Jeep has a similar amount of things that need to be swapped off as you get more into it, but I just like to go against the grain, and they just didn't excite me. Fullsizes - K5 was about the only thing I considered, till I saw their weight. Blah.

That was just my thinking as I was hunting around a few years back...

If I had to do it again, and was starting out? I'd still buy something that was a little bit built, and use that as a launching pad.
 
Lizooki said:
All these guys are giving good advice. But I'll bet most are giving props to what they run themselves.
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Yep, I started with a full size 78 Bronco, went to a K5 Jimmy and then to Toys. The smaller rigs are a lot of fun on the tight trails, light weight GENERALLY means less breakage. Its about what you find cool and like.

How about some downsides.

Zuk's, low power, high CG short wheelbase.

Toys, low power, less than desirable turning radius and low slung transfer and gas tank.

Jeeps, generally more expensive, the little ones have weak axles, high aftermarket parts costs, and I've not seen a Zuk or Toy blow the steering box of the frame yet. :flipoff2:
 
Anything that the top comes off is more fun off road to me. I have been 4wheelin in trucks and hate looking out over that hood from inside a cab. Sorry dude, but if I had another truck, I'd have to hack that cab open 1st thing. It has nothing to do with Jeeps or Toyotas really. Hell I had a Toyota pull me out 10 years ago. I like Toyota 4x4s with the solid front axle swap. By the way, just to get more fan mail coming, I also hate coil springs on Jeeps,.
 
Rich said:
Fullsizes - K5 was about the only thing I considered, till I saw their weight. Blah.
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whatcha mean, my RamCharger only weighs 6200 lbs :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

seriously, its all about what one wants, and more often what one can afford. i got my RC for 850 bucks. fuel injected V8, dana 44 front chrysler 9.25 rear, not a short wheelbase, but not too long either. fits 33s stock, spare parts are plentiful and cheap (i got two whole RCs for free), and swapping one tons is literally a bolt in application. on the other hand, it weighs 3 tons, its as wide as a house so body damage is guaranteed, and being a dodge, the aftermarket is nill. but for me, the pros outweigh the cons.

Duane
 
Ratman said:
.

Zuk's, low power, high CG short wheelbase.

:
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Man...he sees 2 zooks flop in one day and can't let it go! :D


Matt :rolleyes:
 
Lizooki said:
Man...he sees 2 zooks flop in one day and can't let it go! :D


Matt :rolleyes:
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Those 2 wern't the first ones and neither one had a damn thing to do with wheelbase, more with cg and dumbass luck. :flipoff2: I like the stability of a 105 or so wheelbase with a decent track width. Neither of which a stock axled, lifted Zook has, the neat thing is they are so easy to alter and get that. I like the height of the driveline and flatness of the belly compared to the Yodas too. :flipoff2: :beer:
 
If you'd like to be a little different, try an Isuzu. great out of the box, and lots of buildup potential. Of course, I would suggest a Trooper :D you can haul all your junk, camp, wheel, anything. come from the factory w/ 4wheel discs, 4.56 and a beefy rear end. aftermarket keeps growing, and a good group of people around the area wheel zu's.
 
I know teamtiger says he wants something smaller but I think cucvs are great starting points (The M1008 or M1028). Theyre strong as hell. Just clock the transfer up, move the front axle forward with a set of ORD zero rates and 52 in. springs, hack the fenders, throw some big meats on it, take the bed off and wheel it. Then when more money comes you can narrow the front end, add rock sliders, a cage, a winch, doubler.. :flipoff2: lol Im just saying youve got to really abuse them with 40's or bigger to break stuff. If body damage isnt an issue and you dont frequent the atv trails then Id say the cucv is the way to go. that is if you ever find a deal on one. I heard about a guy who picked up two M1008's for 750 bucks each at an auction lol that Bastard!
 
86m1008beater said:
I know teamtiger says he wants something smaller but I think cucvs are great starting points (The M1008 or M1028). Theyre strong as hell. Just clock the transfer up, move the front axle forward with a set of ORD zero rates and 52 in. springs, hack the fenders, throw some big meats on it, take the bed off and wheel it. Then when more money comes you can narrow the front end, add rock sliders, a cage, a winch, doubler.. :flipoff2: lol Im just saying youve got to really abuse them with 40's or bigger to break stuff. If body damage isnt an issue and you dont frequent the atv trails then Id say the cucv is the way to go. that is if you ever find a deal on one. I heard about a guy who picked up two M1008's for 750 bucks each at an auction lol that Bastard!
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Thanks to the magazines they are $3000-$5000 now and you have steering issues and a pig of an engine. I would rather strip out the 1ton axles and leave the rest to rust.
 
In reality all the above mentioned rigs are buildable into a capable trail rig.
and all of them in stock form are ok to wheel light stuff with.
the sami is a great beginning rig
so are the toys and jeeps
they all need modifications to be serious wheelers
they all have their pro's and con's
so here is my two cents

a toy with solid axle can be lifted easily and modified real easily
a toy with ifs is capable enough for a beginning wheeler
they can run bigger tires with out a lot of mods (think fender trimming)
they have a good drive train to an extent especially if you get efi
you can haul stuff with them
and you can lock them up and with a sawzall you can make them topless

a sami is light weight easy to manuever fun on the trails easy to modify
and can be a fun great beginning wheeler stock and even with 31 inch tires is a capable beginning wheeler think topless trail running

a jeep well you can figure it out they are about the same as a sami but a bit bigger and you can find them with enough engine to satisfy your need for power if you have one. you can run 32 or 33 inch tires with out huge modifications and bone stock they wheel ok as well and with a few mods they are great wheeler. think topless trail running

and of course the bigger rigs are just like these mentioned a k5 stock is fun to wheel has a great turning radius and is pretty tough

and so on and so on

so I would suggest you do some searches in each vehicle your interested in and look into what it will cost to lift, beef, or otherwise modify them to your liking

consider how you want to use it overall now and later and go from there

oh yeah I like the toy trucks especially with an extra cab but I do a lot of hauling stuff around with mine. but you can get a trailer for that.
 
I will throw this out there...S-10/15 pickups are starting to get popular since the already have the 4.3L, good tranny and 231 (I think) tcase...all of which have lots of aftermarket support...

Throw in a set of full size 60/14BFF axles under there and you have quite a rig!

Sam
 
Funny you should mention... I was starting to think I was the only one here with one of these:
aimg.photobucket.com_albums_v639_Trebissky_House_20and_20Vehicles___Trebissky_A102a.jpg


I've been itching to get it out to Uwharrie or DPG and really try it out. Still a few items I need to get first, though, like a tow strap. But I did at least make sure the 4WD works (and it DOES).
:D :driver:
 
Say, Shinton, it sounds like you know something about these. How hard, and expensive, would it be to do a front SAS on a Jimmy like mine?
 
Trebissky said:
How hard, and expensive, would it be to do a front SAS on a Jimmy like mine?
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I know you weren't asking me, but I thought I'd throw in my .02 on a SAS. I SAS'd my 94 Yota Pickup. I'd never done it before and was guided through it by my friend Yotaman who'd done just 1 before that. As far as cost, difficulty, and amount of time invested, they're all directly related. If you spend more and get a kit (like a marlin crawler kit for toyota, i'm unfamiliar with kits for any other makes/models) it makes it pretty easy, just a lot of time with a cutting torch or plasma cutter, a LOT of grinding, and some welding. If you decide to go the way I did, which is making your own spring hanger, choosing which springs to use, fabbing your own steering, etc, etc, then you're obviously going to spend more time and it's going to end up being more difficult, but you'll save money.

Also remember that you're probably going to have to modify the rear to compensate for the additional lift, whether you change springs or install blocks. When I did mine, before I modified the rear suspension, it looked like a boat trying to get on plane and I had serious death wobble.

I'm no SAS expert by ANY means, just trying to offer my experience, which is limited only to Toyota.

We did mine in a weekend and some change.

I can tell you that no matter what you spend or how long you take to do it, it is WELL WORTH IT!!
 
jdubb said:
Anything that the top comes off is more fun off road to me. I have been 4wheelin in trucks and hate looking out over that hood from inside a cab. Sorry dude, but if I had another truck, I'd have to hack that cab open 1st thing. I like Toyota 4x4s with the solid front axle swap.
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You mean a chopped, SAS'd 3rd gen Yota like this one? This is what happens when somebody get's pissed about a lack of visibility when attacking obstacles. A crime of passion... Notice the sawzall still in the cab. :D

Picture%20001.jpg
 
I know were a 50's flattie can be had for $1600, in original form.
Edgemore S.C. about 10 miles south of Rockhill.


I figured i would give the guy a call to make sure he still had the flattie, but its sold, He still has the 66 scout with 1/2 cab an 85hp 4cyl. he said he's been driving it regular an would take $1500 for it.
 
My personal choice for a first rig... Any 2nd or 3rd gen EFI Yota Pickup or Runner. Throw some cheap 31's or 33's under it, weld the rear and give it hell. You'd be surprised at the things you can do with 3 wheels turning instead of just 2. After you've gotten completely hooked on wheeling, whether it's crawlin', muddin' or just trail riding, SAS it and then it's wide open from there.

Of course I'm partial to Yotas, b/c I've got one, but no matter what you get, I'd suggest keeping the front open until you get deeper in to wheelin' (and can afford to fix stuff). A locked front axle gives you greater capability, but also leads to costly repairs and/or upgrades.
 
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