Super Pissed at the Z71 - Cylinders 7 & 5 not firing

topless toy said:
I would say it is your cam also pull the valve covers and the dizzy wire and have someone watch as you turn it over if its your cam you will see the rockers for that valve not moving
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Well I did that and all the rockers appeared to be moving . . . .

IDK the rain has been keepin me from doing anything to it since I have no garage (stupid rain :shaking: ) But Im gonna try and check the timing today and maybe go ahead and replace my power steering pump that I just put on and only lasted 5 days before it broke and have been driving with no power steering for two weeks now :mad:

If I have more time I'll mess with the exhaust/compression, I just know thats gonna end up going badly and take more than a day to do.

Its funny yesterday I was listening to music really loud and since the truck already idleing bad I was sitting at a stoplight with my foot on the brake in gear not thinking about it and my Subs drew so much power it made the volt meter completly drop one time it hit real low and shut off the truck :lol:
 
i doubt its the cam how many miles on it, if you do the damn compresion test we can all stop guesing and no for sure. put on your rain suit and get your ass out there.
 
Cperry said:
i doubt its the cam how many miles on it, if you do the damn compresion test we can all stop guesing and no for sure. put on your rain suit and get your ass out there.
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But I'm scared of getting wet . . . . :lol:

188,xxx miles, I'll get around to it eventually but prob not today cause its raining, besides sitting around making random guesses at why its not running right is way easier than actually working on it :shaking:
 
jrraw23 said:
Its funny yesterday I was listening to music really loud and since the truck already idleing bad I was sitting at a stoplight with my foot on the brake in gear not thinking about it and my Subs drew so much power it made the volt meter completly drop one time it hit real low and shut off the truck :lol:
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Then your alternator is weak and your battery sucks, as well as your wiring likely being undersized. :flipoff2:

Now hike up yer skirt and go fix your truck, prissy boy...
 
Damn Ricky why don't you sell that :poop:Z71 & get a real truck
 
Dude :poop: floats...

But make sure and let as much water as possible get inside the motor, it is good for it....


Oh yeah, is alternator good, is belt tight, is idle high enough ?
 
I know its not really me being afraid of the rain its more im just tired of working on my junk in general so I'm procrastinating as much as possible.

Oh yeah, is alternator good, is belt tight, is idle high enough ?
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Belt is tight, idle is low because the truck is running bad, normally it ok, but not right now and . . .

oh yea the alternator sucks bad, always had ever since I bought the truck 5 years ago, but it probably doesnt help that I have a JL 12 W7 drawing 1000 rms watts and a audiobahn 10" drawing 800 rms watts at the same time :shaking:
 
jrraw23 said:
I have a JL 12 W7 drawing 1000 rms watts and a audiobahn 10" drawing 800 rms watts at the same time :shaking:
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At least you are consistant, you cob your audio as much as you cob together you attempts at automotive.

Good job !! <golf clap>

Maybe one day you'll understand that taking the time to do it right the first time, saves the repaeted attempts at doing it OVER AND OVER
 
capacitor anyone?....

BTW You can get the alt. rebuilt and hopped up for $20....
 
SkyHiK5 said:
capacitor anyone?....

BTW You can get the alt. rebuilt and hopped up for $20....
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Hell, that would double the value of the whole truck!:flipoff2:
 
jrraw23 said:
but it probably doesnt help that I have a JL 12 W7 drawing 1000 rms watts and a audiobahn 10" drawing 800 rms watts at the same time :shaking:
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You really need to sign up for an electrical class of some kind.. a 101 level class.

Without going into too many details, speakers don't draw power of any kind. Amplifiers do. And unless you listen to sine waves, the draw from an amplifier is very low until a bass drum hit or something similar.

At idle, and especially a low idle, your alternator isn't helping out much, and when that bass drum does hit, you may dip against the reserve that is your battery. That's not uncommon with marginal charging systems.

But if the voltage dipped below the EFI's working range, then your battery sucks ass. No way in hell your stereo draws more power than a winch pulling even a moderate load.. and you don't see all the off-road rigs stalling every time they pull cable.

Even my audio competition CRX with its little 60 amp alternator was able to keep the voltage above 11.5 when the volume was fully maxed with sine waves doing the SPL portion of the comp... You just need a good battery.

Oh, and careful with those hopped-up alternators.. some won't charge worth a damn at idle, others run very hot and shorten the lifespan..
 
Rich said:
You really need to sign up for an electrical class of some kind.. a 101 level class.
Without going into too many details, speakers don't draw power of any kind. Amplifiers do. And unless you listen to sine waves, the draw from an amplifier is very low until a bass drum hit or something similar.
At idle, and especially a low idle, your alternator isn't helping out much, and when that bass drum does hit, you may dip against the reserve that is your battery. That's not uncommon with marginal charging systems.
But if the voltage dipped below the EFI's working range, then your battery sucks ass. No way in hell your stereo draws more power than a winch pulling even a moderate load.. and you don't see all the off-road rigs stalling every time they pull cable.
Even my audio competition CRX with its little 60 amp alternator was able to keep the voltage above 11.5 when the volume was fully maxed with sine waves doing the SPL portion of the comp... You just need a good battery.
Oh, and careful with those hopped-up alternators.. some won't charge worth a damn at idle, others run very hot and shorten the lifespan..
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Well i have the amps to push the subs at that level is what I meant to say, and I do have a fairly new optima redtop battery.

Maybe it wasn't the subs that killed the truck maybe it just died, it seems to be getting slowly worse on how it runs idle-wise, so I've had to put it in neutral at stoplights here latley sometimes, and now I can't really use overdrive much cause when it shifts into it, it starts to stall the truck out due to lack of power . . .
 
tc....
 
tc....
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torque converter? I don't think so i mean i really dont have any idea to be honest but it seems to be more of just the truck running very poorly, lol

it was nice saturday, and today- where is my compression test. i think i may have to fire you.
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Dude I got up late saturday morn, went and figured out why my friends mustang wasn't running for him (he had put the dizzy cap on backward after doing an intake manifold swap) then I went and tailgated at the State game and afterward went to a haloween party as Mr. Goodwrench, then today I got up shortly before the panthers game and have kinda done homework/sat around since.

I told you, i really don't wanna mess with the thing anymore :shaking:


I'll get around to it eventually . . . well, either that or the truck will explode :lol:
 
I think if you spent as much time under the hood as you did posting, you'd have this fixed by now.. :flipoff2:
 
I recently had a situation where:

When I put my winch under load, and tried to help it with the engine and pedal, it would want to stall out. Not only that, but the winch is a Warn 10,000 and would hardly pull my Heep. I run 3 Red tops. So I figured the winch motor was pulling way too much power, needed rewound or so on.

When I was putting on my tube fenders, I had to relocate some things that were attached to my inner fenders. Doing so, I found a bare place in my power cable coming from my 160 amp alternator, It was grounding it's self out on my vac lock off for my propane. This is a #2 cable. Jeep had run fine till I used the winch. I should have blown something up, or at least fried the alternator or caught fire. I was lucky.

Check out your wires for bare spots.
 
Aight finnaly did some work to it, for comparison cylinder 4 is at 175 psi cylinder 1 is at 160 those two are working fine

now, cylinder 6 is at 170 psi which seems good but its one of the bad cylinders

the other bad cylinder number 7 reads no psi whatsoever and I'm pretty sure its just pushin the air back outta the intake cause the tbi is making alot of noise

Guy that has worked on building chevy engines alot keeps sayin its the cam worn out. He says that when it wears out it causes the exhaust valve no to open all the way not letting all the pressure out during the exhaust stroke which forces pressure back out the intake when it gets to the intake stroke. He also says there's a possibility of part of the intake valve on number 7 broke off or stuck allowing all pressure to release out of the intake all the time

Pretty much I think I'm at the stage where I'm gonna have to start taking the engine apart . . . .
 
I'd be willing bet on a cracked valve or a small hole in the piston
 
x2... its time to pull the head... look at the piston... you could have a broke ring.. .but more then likely theres a valve spring broken something that isnt allowing the valve to close properly
 
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