uglyjeepoffroad
Registered Loser
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- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Hickory, NC
And you say you still can't sell what you have and buy a tow rig?
Super Pissed at the Z71 - Cylinders 7 & 5 not firing
- Thread starter Ricky B
- Start date
And you say you still can't sell what you have and buy a tow rig?
Ricky B
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- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Well I guess if I sold the Jeep too then I could afford a semi decent tow rig but then I would have a tow rig for no reason . . .
uglyjeepoffroad
Registered Loser
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- Location
- Hickory, NC
I was talking about these.
Z71, 81 Chevy on 44's, 98 4x4 1500.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
If he sold all 3 for their worth hed have 2k max....
Green ford
Active Member
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- Nov 1, 2005
I don't know they may charge him to tow them away!
Ricky B
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- Mar 20, 2005
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- LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Ha, I'd get a little more than 2k but no where near what I 'd need for a decent tow rig.
On a more technical note I did the putting compressed air to the cylinders thing today . . . .
Cylinder # 7 that had no compression via a compression test when put at top dead center and air hooked to it let all the air flow directly out of the intake as suspected
Cylinder # 6 had good compression via compression test 170 psi however when put at top dead center and air put to it, leaked (very slowly) out of . . . . the oil dipstick . . . yay
So . . . . does that mean the bottom end is bad too? If so why does it have good compression?
Jeff B
Thanos was right
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- Dec 23, 2006
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- Lincolnton N.C.
You may have jumped time
rattlecanpaint
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- Apr 18, 2005
- Location
- Winston Salem
I bet that new Tundra will pull your chitty and the trailer that it won't pull, and do it without breaking down every week.
rattlecanpaint
Well-Known Member
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- Apr 18, 2005
- Location
- Winston Salem
Flipper
Well-Known Member
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- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
air getting from the combustion chamber into the crankcase means its going through the piston or rings. some leak down is normal, but sounds like you've got a bit more than normal. worst case is a small hole in the piston, its more likely just worn rings or the bore is a bit out of round. The cylinder with no compression pretty obviously has a bad intake valve. (or, as was mentioned, the timing chain slipped and your valves aren't closed at TDC)
Ricky B
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- Mar 20, 2005
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- LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Oh I don't doubt it, that thing is that hotness, but if I get a Towrig I'm gonna get a diesel, when yota comes out with diesels I'm pretty sure there gonna kick all the american companies butt's
or heck they should just offer the tundra with a inline 8 dual turbo'd cummins, that be siiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiick
yea I mean when it was coming out of the crankcase it was real hard to hear but if you put your finger over the oil dipstick hole then off again you could tell . . . .
idk maybe if the truck suddenly "dissapears" one night I can just make an insurace claim on it as stolen like Peter Griffin did that one episode . . . . too bad that wouldnt be enough money to buy anything with
If the timing chain slipped and the valves arnt closing why is cylinder number 7 the only one affected?
NCJeepin
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Location
- Conway, SC
you hit the nail on the head, its not a timing chain issue, the intake valve has issues. pull the valve cover and see what the rocker assy looks like on that valve.
Ricky B
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- Mar 20, 2005
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- LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
I've pulled the valve cover already a little while ago and saw no real issues with movement on either side of the engine, so I'm assuming the vavle head is messed up.
But basically am I looking at a complete rebuild of the bottom and top end because the number 6 cylinder is leaking into the crankcase?
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
C
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Cheaper than rebuild....and you get a warranty
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Cheaper than rebuild....and you get a warranty
paradisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Location
- Newton, NC
X2 on the crate motor... saves you money and time, and you get a warranty... look into putting new accessories such as waterpump and what not on then too... GM offers alot of different motors, so you could even upgrade to a higher powered engine at the same time...
that or swap in a bigger motor (like i know youll wanna) and prob run into some of the same issues youve seen so far (overheating)
that or swap in a bigger motor (like i know youll wanna) and prob run into some of the same issues youve seen so far (overheating)
Ricky B
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- Mar 20, 2005
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- LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
I wasn't arguing between crate motor/rebuild I was just asking if from what I said from the pressure test if you guys think my motor is done.
I don't know if it leaking a litle air into the crankcase is a killer or if its ok, sound like its not and my motor is pretty much done from what you guys are saying.
But . . . . the main qustion I want clarified is that is my current motor screwed to the point that I have to either replace/rebuild it.
------------------------------------
Now, if it is in fact at that point:
I'm def not getting a crate motor thou unless they sell one that has a good amount more power over stock for under a grand.
Like I said, anymore than a grand and I'm not gonna do it, the truck isn't worth putting anymore money than that into, IMO.
And I'm definitly not gonna spend that much money on a motor and be stuck with the same sucky amount of power.
I realize this limits my options, but I'm def not spending money on the motor unless I'm both going up in power and spending less than a grand.
-------------------------------------
Now, here's the options I'm thinking I have obviously with whatever it will end up costing being the final deciding factor, please commet on the ideas however you think I should go, also bearing in mind I will be doing the work by hand for whatever option except of course for any professional machin work I will have to face.
- Rebuild to stock with mild cam/intake/chip
- Crate motor that has at least 50 HP over stock
- used 350 that I hop up with a mild cam/intakechip
- 454 swap
- 383 stroker
- caddy 500 swap
----------------------------------
Here's what i'm leaning toward:
- Making 2 good engines outta the 3 that I have:
350 from brown 81 chevy w/ 113,xxx miles weiand intake holley 600 cfm carb
Blown up 95 tbi 350
Vortec 350 w/ 220,xxx miles on it
Thinking 113,xxx mile 81 chevy 350 with the vortec heads with tbi in my truck witch would mean a intake and cam and chip to match.
Then the vortec bottom end 81 350 heads/weiand intake carb in the brown chevy.
- Another option thinking 383 stroker since I (possibly) have a line on the stroker parts for free, i'd just have to pay for the machining work to my block whitch i have no idea what that would cost if anyone knows?
- Or just find a cheap 350 that used with low miles and throw a cam/intake/chip on it
I don't know if it leaking a litle air into the crankcase is a killer or if its ok, sound like its not and my motor is pretty much done from what you guys are saying.
But . . . . the main qustion I want clarified is that is my current motor screwed to the point that I have to either replace/rebuild it.
------------------------------------
Now, if it is in fact at that point:
I'm def not getting a crate motor thou unless they sell one that has a good amount more power over stock for under a grand.
Like I said, anymore than a grand and I'm not gonna do it, the truck isn't worth putting anymore money than that into, IMO.
And I'm definitly not gonna spend that much money on a motor and be stuck with the same sucky amount of power.
I realize this limits my options, but I'm def not spending money on the motor unless I'm both going up in power and spending less than a grand.
-------------------------------------
Now, here's the options I'm thinking I have obviously with whatever it will end up costing being the final deciding factor, please commet on the ideas however you think I should go, also bearing in mind I will be doing the work by hand for whatever option except of course for any professional machin work I will have to face.
- Rebuild to stock with mild cam/intake/chip
- Crate motor that has at least 50 HP over stock
- used 350 that I hop up with a mild cam/intakechip
- 454 swap
- 383 stroker
- caddy 500 swap
----------------------------------
Here's what i'm leaning toward:
- Making 2 good engines outta the 3 that I have:
350 from brown 81 chevy w/ 113,xxx miles weiand intake holley 600 cfm carb
Blown up 95 tbi 350
Vortec 350 w/ 220,xxx miles on it
Thinking 113,xxx mile 81 chevy 350 with the vortec heads with tbi in my truck witch would mean a intake and cam and chip to match.
Then the vortec bottom end 81 350 heads/weiand intake carb in the brown chevy.
- Another option thinking 383 stroker since I (possibly) have a line on the stroker parts for free, i'd just have to pay for the machining work to my block whitch i have no idea what that would cost if anyone knows?
- Or just find a cheap 350 that used with low miles and throw a cam/intake/chip on it
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2005
- Location
- Sharon, SC
Ricky,
Slow down, step back and breath.
You are doing "IT" again.
Asking for help, ignoring everyone and talking out of both sides of your mouth.
First:
Is it absolutely impossible to repair?
NO
BUT!, it has reached the point where repair is no longer feasible or economically responsible. In other words it will probably cost several hundred bucks to patch (either re-ring or bench top rebuild) and the time to remove, repair, reinstall etc.
And when you get all done, if you are lucky, you have as much power as now, the same gas mileage, no warranty and a pieced together engine ready to die at any time.
Then stop right here.
It will cost upwards of 1k in the end either way.
Either come to grips with this fact or try to disprove it and expect to fail.
You dont specifically state it. But I will give you my thoughts on each and ASSUME the same $1000 budget.
Then Cam,lifters,intake,chip (100,75,125,200) ($500)
You are at 750 bucks plus gaskets seals etc and you still have a used motor of unknown history ready to lay down at any point with no warranty and probably about the same power you have now. And of course you have the work of installing the new cam and parts etc. and all the potential for more posts, HELP SUPER DUPER NEW/USED 350 wont run
#1 no way for under 1k. You wont get the motor for under 1k. Even if you do, you need to look at a new radiator for starters. Also depending on what 454 set up you go with understand that you will not automatically pick up gobs of power. Some of the stock 454s have surprisingly anemic numbers, none get gas mileage worth a poop, parts are more expensive than for a SBC, so even when little things go wrong it does cost more. And it is not a drop in swap. You will have peripheral costs getting it in your truck. Plus it will add nearly 250lbs to your front end weight. I love the 454 for its performance potential, but for an economical solution NO WAY.
Ok so you can get the parts for free. Id be very skeptical of their origins unless you know the donor very well. Also there will be substantial machine costs, adn if you arent careful you can easily end up with a 350hp/350lb.ft 383...Thats not a good dollar, to power ratio.
You are probably still way over $1k by the time you get it on the road.
Again no warranty, and a ton of headaches getting the whole thing together if you do it yourself. If you pay someone else...well
WORST.
IDEA.
EVER.
Weighs a ton.
Very inefficient.
Mediocre power output.
Will be a bitch to get in there.
You wont keep it cool.
Never known for reliability.
parts are scarce to OMG availability.
If you are going to buy a used motor, that you don know how it has been cared for, why in the hell would your first option be to throw $500 worth of parts to increase its power and chance of failure?
Do you really want to be right back here in a month?
Super Pissed at the Z71, now new motor is not doing x,y or z?
If I were in your shoes, given all the info you've given us I would (in no particular order)
1) Sell the truck for best you can get and put money towards new tow rig. Again no idea what you have here, but at least the work/time invested is minimal and you could actually get a 3/4 or 1 ton frame/chassis/brakes
2) Put a reman'd motor from AA or AZ in and try it, if you dont like it sell then for as much as you could have gotten for #1 plus the 7-800 you'd have in the new motor. And you get the benefit of "hey I just put a motor in here, it is under warranty for the next year"
3) Buy a $1400-$1600 GM Replacement motor (LM1) This will give you only ~290hp. But does afford a 3 year 100k mile warranty, a 4-bolt main motor, and its ready to drop in and go, no adjusting valves, no screwing with valve covers or timing covers or oil pans.
4) If ya gotta have more power. Spend some cash on A) 330HP HO 350 ($2200) or B) A ZZ$ ($3300)both have the 3 year 100k warranty, and the HO is ready to drop your dizzy in bolt your intake,carb and front accy on and or the ZZ4 is bolt a carb on and has a new flywheel, WP new Dizzy everything and BTW its specs 355hp/405lb.ft.
The SBC options will give you ease of installation (its just like you have now), lighter weight to a BB and improved economy.
Now I know you said your truck wasnt worth that much and I can appreciate that, but if you go route 4, when you do graduate and can afford a true tow rig, you'll have a kick azz power plant for your CJ-71
I fully expect you to disregard all this, buy a $250 motor and then bitch about how IT let YOU down again, but I hope that one day you learn you have to spend money to save money sometimes.
Slow down, step back and breath.
You are doing "IT" again.
Asking for help, ignoring everyone and talking out of both sides of your mouth.
First:
Is it absolutely impossible to repair?
NO
BUT!, it has reached the point where repair is no longer feasible or economically responsible. In other words it will probably cost several hundred bucks to patch (either re-ring or bench top rebuild) and the time to remove, repair, reinstall etc.
And when you get all done, if you are lucky, you have as much power as now, the same gas mileage, no warranty and a pieced together engine ready to die at any time.
Then stop right here.
It will cost upwards of 1k in the end either way.
Either come to grips with this fact or try to disprove it and expect to fail.
You dont specifically state it. But I will give you my thoughts on each and ASSUME the same $1000 budget.
Your probably still coming in over a grand with a decent machine shop to do it right. You have no warranty and you have small if any gains in performance.
A fine option IMHO but aint happening for under 1k. Sorry
Ok so you buy a used motor ($250?)
Then Cam,lifters,intake,chip (100,75,125,200) ($500)
You are at 750 bucks plus gaskets seals etc and you still have a used motor of unknown history ready to lay down at any point with no warranty and probably about the same power you have now. And of course you have the work of installing the new cam and parts etc. and all the potential for more posts, HELP SUPER DUPER NEW/USED 350 wont run
Second worst idea in your post.
#1 no way for under 1k. You wont get the motor for under 1k. Even if you do, you need to look at a new radiator for starters. Also depending on what 454 set up you go with understand that you will not automatically pick up gobs of power. Some of the stock 454s have surprisingly anemic numbers, none get gas mileage worth a poop, parts are more expensive than for a SBC, so even when little things go wrong it does cost more. And it is not a drop in swap. You will have peripheral costs getting it in your truck. Plus it will add nearly 250lbs to your front end weight. I love the 454 for its performance potential, but for an economical solution NO WAY.
Ok so you can get the parts for free. Id be very skeptical of their origins unless you know the donor very well. Also there will be substantial machine costs, adn if you arent careful you can easily end up with a 350hp/350lb.ft 383...Thats not a good dollar, to power ratio.
You are probably still way over $1k by the time you get it on the road.
Again no warranty, and a ton of headaches getting the whole thing together if you do it yourself. If you pay someone else...well
WORST.
IDEA.
EVER.
Weighs a ton.
Very inefficient.
Mediocre power output.
Will be a bitch to get in there.
You wont keep it cool.
Never known for reliability.
parts are scarce to OMG availability.
So you are going to spend how much to get a 113,000 mile motor? Damn just buy your rrandom for sale SBC off th baord and take your chances. just as much chance for success.
No opinion;not what this thread is about
See above
If you are going to buy a used motor, that you don know how it has been cared for, why in the hell would your first option be to throw $500 worth of parts to increase its power and chance of failure?
Do you really want to be right back here in a month?
Super Pissed at the Z71, now new motor is not doing x,y or z?
If I were in your shoes, given all the info you've given us I would (in no particular order)
1) Sell the truck for best you can get and put money towards new tow rig. Again no idea what you have here, but at least the work/time invested is minimal and you could actually get a 3/4 or 1 ton frame/chassis/brakes
2) Put a reman'd motor from AA or AZ in and try it, if you dont like it sell then for as much as you could have gotten for #1 plus the 7-800 you'd have in the new motor. And you get the benefit of "hey I just put a motor in here, it is under warranty for the next year"
3) Buy a $1400-$1600 GM Replacement motor (LM1) This will give you only ~290hp. But does afford a 3 year 100k mile warranty, a 4-bolt main motor, and its ready to drop in and go, no adjusting valves, no screwing with valve covers or timing covers or oil pans.
4) If ya gotta have more power. Spend some cash on A) 330HP HO 350 ($2200) or B) A ZZ$ ($3300)both have the 3 year 100k warranty, and the HO is ready to drop your dizzy in bolt your intake,carb and front accy on and
or the ZZ4 is bolt a carb on and has a new flywheel, WP new Dizzy everything and BTW its specs 355hp/405lb.ft.The SBC options will give you ease of installation (its just like you have now), lighter weight to a BB and improved economy.
Now I know you said your truck wasnt worth that much and I can appreciate that, but if you go route 4, when you do graduate and can afford a true tow rig, you'll have a kick azz power plant for your CJ-71
I fully expect you to disregard all this, buy a $250 motor and then bitch about how IT let YOU down again, but I hope that one day you learn you have to spend money to save money sometimes.
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2005
- Location
- Archer Lodge
^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Probably THE most accurate and informative post in this thread.
On a side note, mixing and matching old and new SBC parts is asking for fitment and reliability issues. Especially when trying to do it on the cheap.
Putting a Caddy engine in and expecting it to be reliable is just crazyness, a waste of time and money.
on par with putting lipstick on a pig
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Probably THE most accurate and informative post in this thread.
On a side note, mixing and matching old and new SBC parts is asking for fitment and reliability issues. Especially when trying to do it on the cheap.
Putting a Caddy engine in and expecting it to be reliable is just crazyness, a waste of time and money.
on par with putting lipstick on a pig
paradisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Location
- Newton, NC
im with what ron said ricky... i know what its like to be in college with no $$
my only 2 options, if i wanted to keep the truck, would be get a SBC crate motor with same or more HP then stock,
or build/buy a 383 stroker for it... but after helping a buddy do one right and getting good HP numbers, it ended up costing him 4-5k after all the upgraded parts/labor to have it run and cool right...
or to do it really on the cheap, id get a AZ/AAP motor, check it to specs and if right, throw it in there... and you still havea warranty.. and a running truck to sell for more $$ so u can get a new truck
my only 2 options, if i wanted to keep the truck, would be get a SBC crate motor with same or more HP then stock,
or build/buy a 383 stroker for it... but after helping a buddy do one right and getting good HP numbers, it ended up costing him 4-5k after all the upgraded parts/labor to have it run and cool right...
or to do it really on the cheap, id get a AZ/AAP motor, check it to specs and if right, throw it in there... and you still havea warranty.. and a running truck to sell for more $$ so u can get a new truck
Flipper
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh, NC
you can always grab a good junkyard shortblock and throw in there for the ultimate cheapness
bcammons21
Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2007
- Location
- Durham
Ricky I might just know a guy thats got a 350 vortec with i think it was 40k on it for sale in timberlake(south of roxboro), i dont know why i didnt think of this before.
PM me and ill get in touch with him if you are interested!
PM me and ill get in touch with him if you are interested!
Ricky B
Wiiide Open
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Preciate the thought man but I have no $$ right now anyway
whatever I do will have to wait till I sell something.
---------------------------------------
In response to all, first off all ya'll that think a caddy 500 is a bad idea and a crappy motor I'm gonna have to call you out on that
aparantly you don't know what you are talkin about or just have had a random bad experience with one. But thats really beside the point . . . .
IDK I think what I'm gonna do is just give up on the Tow rigness and put the Z71 back as high up as I can on some big as I can fit tires and just drive the wee outta it till it blows good (or at max slap some used heads on it so at least the cylinders all work, lol), and get the Z71 Jeep in Daily Driving status as well and just have fun drivin around Big stuff for a while. Fixing the Z71 just isnt gonna be worth the $$ I don't think, and I can enjoy driving it and My jeep around fer now till in a year or two when I get going in a real job maybe I can get back into wheeling for real and get a tow rig etc, because I really just can't afford it right now, and to be honest I'm pretty well satisfied with Just Being able to drive ridiculously huge stuff around on the road
bcammons21
Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2007
- Location
- Durham
Thats cool, i know he was asking super cheap for it with the headers and ecm and harness and such, ill find out the price for you just in case you get the urge.
Ricky B
Wiiide Open
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- LKN - Tha Dirty Mo (Mooresville, NC)
Thats cool, i know he was asking super cheap for it with the headers and ecm and harness and such, ill find out the price for you just in case you get the urge.
Preciate it man.
just-fabricate-it
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Raleigh
I wouldn't worry about the cylinder with 170 PSI on compression and it seemingly leaking air into the crankcase. 170 PSI is good to go.
Pull the head on the one with no compression and if you are real lucky all you have is a bent valve. Take it to your friendly machine shop and have them fix it. Put the head back on and drive the damn thing. With a little more work, and maybe the cost of another gasket or two, you could pull the other head and confirm that bank is ok.
I really don't understand not wanting to fix the motor now (somehow) yet you are willing to spend money on tires and 'just drive the wee outta it till it blows good' If you don't want to put the money in to it now to fix it are you going to be prepared to maybe spend a lot more a couple of months from now? Doesn't sound like it.
If you want to know more about what shape the cylinders, valve, rings, etc are in do a leak down test.
Sounds like a simple problem with hopefully a simple fix to me though.
Pull the head on the one with no compression and if you are real lucky all you have is a bent valve. Take it to your friendly machine shop and have them fix it. Put the head back on and drive the damn thing. With a little more work, and maybe the cost of another gasket or two, you could pull the other head and confirm that bank is ok.
I really don't understand not wanting to fix the motor now (somehow) yet you are willing to spend money on tires and 'just drive the wee outta it till it blows good' If you don't want to put the money in to it now to fix it are you going to be prepared to maybe spend a lot more a couple of months from now? Doesn't sound like it.
If you want to know more about what shape the cylinders, valve, rings, etc are in do a leak down test.
Sounds like a simple problem with hopefully a simple fix to me though.