Susp and alignment help...06 LJ

Look on youtube....lol ok, I made some adjustments , it was deffintly off...toed out.. I got it toed in now... now to find a place to take it to, to get it checked...
Halls body shop in Mt. Pleasant is who I always used.

As Shawn said though the alignment sheet looks good.

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I understand that the sheet looks good, but the jeep is not set to those specs.. it doesn't matter now.. I think I have made some good improvements... gonna get it checked at another place...
 
toed out.. I got it toed in now... now to find a place to take it to, to get it checked

Why did you change it? The alignment sheet you posted was dead nuts on.

If you're running string back to the rear tires and thinking you're aligning it, you're wrong.

Your problem was that the track bar bolt was loose.
 
Why did you change it? The alignment sheet you posted was dead nuts on.

If you're running string back to the rear tires and thinking you're aligning it, you're wrong.

Your problem was that the track bar bolt was loose.
Shawn, I had 2 problems... the darting back and forth was doing that after the alignment but no vibrations... wife has been driving it like that to work thinking that is the way it is... I said no!!! It wasn't until the last couple weeks the vibration started which forced me to look into it... so I pointed the tires straight, and that's when I noticed the drivers side tire is straight, but passenger side points out...very noticeable. . I tightened loose trackbar bolt..test drove and rechecked wheel position...still off... so that's when I measured back of tires left to right and front of tires left to right... the front was wider than the back... toed out, right???? So, that's where the string came into play... I have other 4wd trucks and even a 4wheeler and have used the string method to check toe and get it close... I don't care what the paper says at this point... the proof is in the measurements and the drivability and they were not right... I'm not here to bash anyone but computers can get out of calibration sometimes maybe that's what happened... I don't know and really don't care at this point just trying to get it fixed
 
If you're basing your alignment specs off the string not touching ONE of the front tires squarely, that tells you the toe is way off.

You simply need to set toe and then re-center the steering wheel.

Bonus: that would also explain the side to side motion of the Jeep. It will constantly be fighting itself going down the road.

Here's what ya need to do:
1 grab a tape measure
2 measure from inner wheel lip to inner wheel lip on rear of wheel. Let's say that is 58"
3 measure from inner wheel lip to inner wheel lip on front of wheel. Let's say that is 58.5"
4 loosen tie rod adjuster nuts and turn it until the front measurement is 1/8" LESS than rear measurement.
5 tighten adjuster nuts
6 loosen the two 15mm adjuster nuts on drag link and center the steering wheel
7 post on here and receive abundant accolades for your efforts
 
If you're basing your alignment specs off the string not touching ONE of the front tires squarely, that tells you the toe is way off.

You simply need to set toe and then re-center the steering wheel.

Bonus: that would also explain the side to side motion of the Jeep. It will constantly be fighting itself going down the road.

Here's what ya need to do:
1 grab a tape measure
2 measure from inner wheel lip to inner wheel lip on rear of wheel. Let's say that is 58"
3 measure from inner wheel lip to inner wheel lip on front of wheel. Let's say that is 58.5"
4 loosen tie rod adjuster nuts and turn it until the front measurement is 1/8" LESS than rear measurement.
5 tighten adjuster nuts
6 loosen the two 15mm adjuster nuts on drag link and center the steering wheel
7 post on here and receive abundant accolades for your efforts
Yes, it felt like it was fighting itself. Almost like a pinball machine. I have other lifted trucks have this feeling and that’s why I knew something wasn’t right even though the alignment sheet said different. Yes I do get the concept of measuring the tires with a tape. Another reason I knew it was out of whack is because when I measured it like that last night it was wider in the front that it was at the back of the front tire. Another confirmation the sheet wasn’t right. I will report my measurements when I get home from work Thanks
 
What Jody said x2. There's no need to take it anywhere, a solid axle vehicle is the easiest thing in the world to align at home if all you're doing is caster and toe.

Make sure it toed in 1/8" and run it. Toe out makes a car wander and dart.

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What Jody said x2. There's no need to take it anywhere, a solid axle vehicle is the easiest thing in the world to align at home if all you're doing is caster and toe.

Make sure it toed in 1/8" and run it. Toe out makes a car wander and dart.

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This is very true. It’s what I was experiencing.
 
Sorry it took so long...been working late...
Measurements at the begining...
Front left to right is 72 3/4"
Back if tire left to right 73 1/4"... toed in too much...
Made adjustment and now
Front 72 15/16"
Back 73".. so that's 1/16" toe in...then u centered the steering wheel..
Then I wanted to make sure I had the same measurements from tire to frame on both sides to see if tires are tracking true to each other if that makes sense... I had the same distance on both sides.. took it for a short test drive.. that made a huge difference!!! It's unreal how bad it was off.. from taking out the tierod and adjusting each wheel so they track straight then adjusting the toe in... thanks everyone... now I need to get it to someone that can put it on a machine to have it checked ....
 
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Sorry it took so long...been working late...
Measurements at the begining...
Front left to right is 62 3/4"
Back if tire left to right 73 1/4"... toed in too much...
Made adjustment and now
Front 72 15/16"
Back 73".. so that's 1/8" toe in...then u centered the steering wheel..
Then I wanted to make sure I had the same measurements from tire to frame on both sides to see if tires are tracking true to each other if that makes sense... I had the same distance on both sides.. took it for a short test drive.. that made a huge difference!!! It's unreal how bad it was off.. from taking out the tierod and adjusting each wheel so they track straight then adjusting the toe in... thanks everyone... now I need to get it to someone that can put it on a machine to have it checked ....

I can only imagine what it was like to drive it with around nine and a half inches of toe in to start......
That's some ricer shit going on....
 
Remember before I made any adjustment it was toed out bad and tires not tracking true to each other yes, horrible to drive...
 
If you're at 72.9375 front and 73" rear....that's only 1/16. Just saying.

The easiest thing I've found to do is point the RH tire straight ahead, center the steering wheel, lift the LH tire off the ground, and make my adjustments that way. That way you're not fighting yourself and you only move one tire to line up with the other one.

There's also no need to put it back on an alignment machine unless you just feel like pissing away some money. I've got three solid axle trucks that have never been on an alignment rack.
 
I take it a step further than going by lip to lip measurement.. I pull the wheels and put on stands close to ride height. I clamp a straight edge to both rotors at the bottom (with 3 nuts tight to hold rotors on. Then I measure at the end of the straight edges and adjust accordingly. I use 4 ft straight edges and set it about 1/8-1/4" at the ends toed in. Spec is 0+/- some small degrees, but that's worked well for me in the past. I only do my own and send the rest to the local tire shop that has a rack. Did my wife's zj and sent it over there just to be checked and it was spot on.
 
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