SXOR single seater build

I spent a few hours in the shop today before coming in for night shift. I got the axle squared up under the buggy and got the lower link and shock mounts tacked on. They’re snug, but as long as the link bolt on the passenger side will clear the 3rd it will be fine.

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I used a piece of flat bar bolted to the link bracket to get them at the same height.

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The upper link and the panhard bar are sitting where they need to be I just have to build the mounts for them. I started on a little Cinnamon Toast Crunch CAD but ran out of time.

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Made a little progress over the last couple weeks, but haven’t taken the time to update the thread. Also made stupid mistake and cost myself, but no surprises there. :laughing:

I got a text from @Jody Treadway earlier this week that one of the 3rds is done.

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I got the JHF high steer welded up on the knuckles.

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I scanned my cardboard template and sent it to a guy with a CNC plasma table and he converted it to a DXF and cut them out for me.

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I got the housing cut down to length and up on the table and locked down in the chain vise and welded to the table with the right pinion angle to start putting the Cs on. The Goatbuilt ram mount is also tacked on.

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There was about a .015” interference fit between the Cs and tube so I did the same as I did when I swapped the C on my 60. Did some sanding on both the C and the tube and was able to knock it on pretty easily with a 4lb hammer and get the caster right where I wanted it.

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Everything was going really good until it wasn’t…
 
I guess I got in too much of a hurry on the second C and didn’t sand enough. It started on good like the other. I was putting them 1.75” onto the tube. This one got .5” from being all the way on and just stopped moving.

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I got the bright idea to use some big threaded rod and plate and try to pull it the rest of the way on with an impact. So I grabbed some 1” rod and 3/4” plate from the scrap pile at work. Even with a 1400 ft-lb 3/4” impact it wouldn’t budge. It just bent the plate and killed the threads on the rod. She stuck.

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It wouldn’t even move trying to hammer it back off. So my only option was to slit it down the side to relieve it and knock it back off. You can see in the picture where I hit it with my purse a time or two.

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A few people have said to just use that same C and bevel the slit and weld it up, but I found another C from a guy in one of the FB buggy groups and I’d rather just do that. I got the tube cleaned up because it was gouged pretty good too. Once the new C gets here we’ll try again, and try not to screw it up this time.

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I guess I got in too much of a hurry on the second C and didn’t sand enough. It started on good like the other. I was putting them 1.75” onto the tube. This one got .5” from being all the way on and just stopped moving.

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I got the bright idea to use some big threaded rod and plate and try to pull it the rest of the way on with an impact. So I grabbed some 1” rod and 3/4” plate from the scrap pile at work. Even with a 1400 ft-lb 3/4” impact it wouldn’t budge. It just bent the plate and killed the threads on the rod. She stuck.

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It wouldn’t even move trying to hammer it back off. So my only option was to slit it down the side to relieve it and knock it back off. You can see in the picture where I hit it with my purse a time or two.

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A few people have said to just use that same C and bevel the slit and weld it up, but I found another C from a guy in one of the FB buggy groups and I’d rather just do that. I got the tube cleaned up because it was gouged pretty good too. Once the new C gets here we’ll try again, and try not to screw it up this time.

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I'd use it again, no need to even bother welding it up, you're gonna weld all the way around anyway :laughing: With that said, the cut in it is going to cause a slight imperfection in your ball joint alignment. If I were building a high level racecar, I might would worry about it, but for your application, it ain't gonna matter, probably cause as much or more deflection welding it on to the tube anyway. Run a light bead just to keep it closed when you press it on, and then burn that puppy in place.
 
I'd use it again, no need to even bother welding it up, you're gonna weld all the way around anyway :laughing: With that said, the cut in it is going to cause a slight imperfection in your ball joint alignment. If I were building a high level racecar, I might would worry about it, but for your application, it ain't gonna matter, probably cause as much or more deflection welding it on to the tube anyway. Run a light bead just to keep it closed when you press it on, and then burn that puppy in place.

I’ve already got a new one on the way or I would. I’ll keep it on the shelf in case something bad happens one day, or I do something stupid again (that’s inevitable). :laughing:
 
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