The Magnum YJ

Xj springs and Motobilt stretch kit :D I know a couple guys with xj leafs, I'll find some pics and post them tonight
 
leakedd said:
Bought a battery today, still haven't figured out wiring yet, thinking its something to do with the ASD relay.
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Just a FYI if you don't already know. You have to use a ecm out of a truck or least find one from a grand Cherokee with out an alarm. When I did my swap into my cj it would start with the ecm from Cherokee but most grand Cherokee came with an alarm system and will shut motor back off few seconds later. On obd1 ecm no way to disable this alarm best I could figure out.

Also truck ecm looks for 2 o2 sensors one on each side for dual exhaust. The Cherokee uses a single o2 cause has single exhaust pipe. If you do run dual exhaust with Cherokee harness which only uses 1 o2 make sure you install o2 on driver side. Will cause problems in stock location on passenger side with dual exhaust and single o2. Long as it is on driver side truck ecm seems to work fine even with only 1 o2. I learned this the hardway. Hope that's not to confusing.
 
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Curtis_H said:
Just a FYI if you don't already know. You have to use a ecm out of a 94-95 truck or least find one from a grand Cherokee with out an alarm. When I did my swap into my cj it would start with the ecm from Cherokee but most grand Cherokee came with an alarm system and will shut motor back off few seconds later. On obd1 ecm no way to disable this alarm best I could figure out.

Also truck ecm looks for 2 o2 sensors one on each side for dual exhaust. The Cherokee uses a single o2 cause has single exhaust pipe. If you do run dual exhaust with Cherokee harness which only uses 1 o2 make sure you install o2 on driver side. Will cause problems in stock location on passenger side with dual exhaust and single o2. Long as it is on driver side truck ecm seems to work fine even with only 1 o2. I learned this the hardway. Hope that's not to confusing.
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I have an ECM from a 1992 Dodge Ram, from what I have read from other fourms I figured the 1992 would work. However you have fully done the swap and would know more than me. You think I should go pick up another PCM?

Thanks for the advice on the o2 sensors!
 
leakedd said:
I have an ECM from a 1992 Dodge Ram, from what I have read from other fourms I figured the 1992 would work. However you have fully done the swap and would know more than me. You think I should go pick up another PCM?

Thanks for the advice on the o2 sensors!
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I cant say for sure but Long as ecm came from truck with multi port fuel injection not a throttle body I'd think it would be fine. It's been awhile since I done the swap but I was thinking the older body style trucks had the the throttle body engines so I only looked for 94-95 trucks when walking junk yard cause I knew they had the right one. I will edit above post cause after quick Google search does look like multi port was available in 92 on the trucks.
 
Curtis_H said:
I cant say for sure but Long as ecm came from truck with multi port fuel injection not a throttle body I'd think it would be fine. It's been awhile since I done the swap but I was thinking the older body style trucks had the the throttle body engines so I only looked for 94-95 trucks when walking junk yard cause I knew they had the right one. I will edit above post cause after quick Google search does look like multi port was available in 92 on the trucks.
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The computer works got it running tonight!!
 
So after hours and hours of trying to figure out why the engine wouldn't start I finally figured it out. I hadn't wired up the speed sensor yet because I figured I'd do it once I finished all the other wiring and got the engine at least running. Then after some research I found that the speed sensor ground wire must be grounded for the engine to start.. Such a simple problem that caused so much stress.

Here's a video of it starting and running for a few seconds then dying. Will run as long as you feather the gas though. Haven't let it run more than a few seconds because there's no coolant. Also sorry about the quality of the video.
 
It idles fine now after starting it a few times. Got the wiring all soldered up today now just gotta loom it and make it look pretty.

Also if anyone in the Winston area is selling some XJ leaf springs let me know. I may just get them from the junk yard depending on their prices.
 
Finally got all the wiring buttoned up and looking decent.
I don't really like how the fusebox sits sideways along the fender. Going to build a bracket to make it sit flat.

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Filled the engine with coolant got it circulating and all then I noticed that the water pump was leaking. One of the only gaskets I didn't change on the engine.. Ended up changing the gasket today.

The list of things to do is getting a little shorter, slowly but surely. Hopefully going to get trans cooler lines and trans dipstick in tomorrow.



Now to fix this mess..

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Gotta finish the trans crossmember then it'll be time to get started on building new seat mounts that are tied into the frame. Eventually i'll be building a full cage.

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Got to break out the bender this weekend
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Also picked up this HF tubing notcher it worked great considering it's from HF and was only $50!

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I'll have to stretch the rear quite a bit or drop my trans/tcase much lower than I'd like to get my CV driveshaft to work. The angle is just way too steep.. I should've just bought an AX-15 too keep the drivetrain short. But if I can get a front driveshaft in soon it'll atleast be able to move under it's own power.


Not the best picture but the beginning of the seat mounts

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I also now have all the gauges working, was orignally having problems with the coolant temp sensor but got it figured out. Still not 100% if speedometer will work but it should. Engine is running really rich but the o2 sensor is not hooked up yet so that is more than likely why. Also sometimes after revving it up a bit the engine will bog down and stall out. Doesn't happen all the time.
 
Bored, looking through older pics. Trying to get up the first ledge on daniels a couple weeks after Uwharrie opened this spring. With the mixture of the ground being a little wet and having open front and rear diffs I couldn't make it up the ledge.
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One of the first notches

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Exhaust will go over cross member eventually just using a stock 5.2l down pipe right now. The cross member also will have to be notched to allow front driveshaft travel. I'm using 2" barnes 4wd bushings if anyone's wondering. They've worked great for other projects.

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Small update, finally finished the gas tank mod. After about two hours with a heat gun I finally got the tank to sit right in the skid. If I had the money to spend right now I would've just bought a nice genright tank.


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just threw a coat of paint of the whole thing doesn't look great but hey, its the bottom of the jeep. At least it wont rust.

I also picked up a set of XJ springs today hopefully will get it stretched within the next week or so then the jeep will be back on the road!
 
Oh and here a picture of it kinda in place. Didn't put the front bolts in.
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one of my buddies brought his new Gopro over and took this pretty sweet picture of the Jeep

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Bolted the xj springs in last night. Plan on cutting the rear of the frame next week and get the new cross member in. Luckily my old driveshaft fits perfectly now with the stretch and the longer drive train. Probably going to have to build some new upper shock mounts because of the stretch. Also had to disconnect the E-brake (not that it worked anyways).

Anyone know of any companies that sell YJ corner guards that will fit the wheel wells with the XJ leaf stretch? I'm definitely gonna have to do something about it, otherwise it'll look a little funny.
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Genright and metalcloak sell stretch corners. Also could call up stout fab and have them send you blanks then you can cut out your own opening
 
Well even after stretching the rear axle 4" the driveshaft angle is still way too steep. Probably going to have to cut the cross member mounts off of the frame and just lower the trans and t-case. :mad: no flat skid for me...

I could possibly shim the ford 8.8 but i'd rather not.
 
So I think I'm going to just cut off the old spring perches and welding some new ones on and get the correct pinion angle.

Not the best pic. The driveshaft will probably have to be shortened a bit. But as you can see the driveshaft angle would be way too steep and if my axle drooped any it would bind up the CV joint.



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Cut off the old spring perches and finally got the pinion angle everything set up, picked up some gas for the welder and going to get that finished tonight. Unfortunately I didn't cut back far enough into the stock tank so it still wont fit with the stretch. I got mad and just went ahead and ordered a RCI 2161A. Going to attempt to use the stock YJ pick up.

Gonna try to do something like this with the walbro pickups.


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pics from YJ Fuel Pump in a RCI2161 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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