The Replacement or Why I Love OBS Fords

[ponykilr]

I liked my Superduty. It was VERY well preserved and was a good looking comfortable truck. After owning it for a year though, I just did not "love" it. It just did not really click with me. All I thought about was 97 back trucks, specifically a F350, I had to have one.

The old truck



I found a 96 F350 close to Spartanburg SC. It was a 460EFI 5spd ZF5 truck, perfect. It had low miles and looked like a good truck. My wife and I got in the Expedition and drove the 4 hours to see it. When I got there, it had been sitting for 8 months and looked it. We started it up, it had a miss....

Well after a couple of hours and the worst hacked up crappy tools the owner dug out of a rusty bucket, I figured out the issue and was able to make a new plug wire boot from a piece of fuel line scavenged from the PCV system. The truck had a exhaust leak at the manifold, it was pretty loud but now at least it ran good.

I made an offer and after dickering a little I bought the truck for much less than the asking price. The ride home was uneventful except for a headache from the exhaust smell (no cat) and noise from the manifold leak. The leak is what had killed the boot and I had a 4 hour drive home.......ONWARD!

Once home, I started to formulate my plan for the truck, it was going to be a tough daily driver. Not a mud toy but not afraid of mud either. Not a trail rig but capable of a good time off the beaten path.

I named it Brutus.

 

[ponykilr]

The first order of business was the exhaust. After looking it over I determined that it needed everything. The manifolds leaked, the Y pipe had been hacked on and a down pipe welded into it which was 2" instead of the factory 2.5". It had no cat, hence the exhaust smelling so strong and it had a 2 chamber Flowmaster dumping straight down. Cab drone was horrific on the road and at 44 years old, I am way past loud mufflers.

I started removing everything. I took off all of the exhaust and really appreciated how high these trucks sit right from the factory. Now the hard part, off with the manifolds. I read about how these cast Iron manifolds are prone to leak, there were many threads about it. I determined that someone had put gaskets on it at some point and that they had blown out. It has been my experience (I was a GM tech for 20 years and until recently an ASE master) that cast iron manifolds do best when bolted on with no gasket, just metal to metal.

I dove in, having to be very careful due to 3 herniated discs and after 2 days I had the manifolds off and the AIR system and AIR pump eliminated. I decided to delete the EGR as well. The tube was rotten and I saw no benefit on a large bore low compression engine to keep it. The manifolds have some pitting on the mount surface. I sanded them as smooth as I could with my DA and some 80 grit. I cleaned the heads with my die grinder and 3M brown cleaning disks. I decided to tap each hole in the head and ran a die over each bolt. I installed the manifolds metal to metal with a smear of Ultra Copper high temp RTV around each port. It was starting to look like I was seeing some light at the end of the exhaust tunnel.

 

[ponykilr]

Y pipes.....
My exhaust shop wanted to do dual exhaust but I believe that on most engines large single exhaust makes more torque so I needed a new Y pipe and I wanted stainless like the factory one. I found what I needed on ebay. I got it on the way and also got a high flow Magnaflow 3" cat on the way as well.






The Y pipe install happened easily thanks to the truck being so high off the ground. I used a little Ultra copper on the manifold/pipe joint. I started the truck up, sounded like thunder. The neighbors were not impressed but now I was ready for some exhaust shop goodness. I went to "The Muffler Shop" in Selma NC and Wilbert Shirley who has been in business 25+ years was happy to do the work for me.

After talking it over, we determined that people my age do not appreciate cab drone and cop calling. But, I do like a little growl when I stand on the skinny pedal. Flowmasters need not apply. He recommended a Magnaflow Muffler. I was hesitant, this is a straight though muffler. He assured me it would be quiet at cruise and idle but sound snarly when racing Hondas from stoplights. He installed my cat and muffler and I decided to turn the exhaust out in front of the rear tire instead of going over the axle. Nothing worse than exhaust in your face when trying to hook up a trailer. The work was complete and Wilbert offered me a love it or change it guarantee.

Well, I am happy to report that it is perfect. It is as quiet as a stock muffler at hwy speeds and just barely rumbles at idle if you are standing outside. It opens up and sounds pretty when you stand on it and chicks (my wife of 21 years) dig it.

 

[ponykilr]

I bought new plug wires, plugs and 3 miles of vacuum hose. I went to work on the vacuum lines as the old plastic stuff was rotten and would break just by handling them. Easy enough to run new lines and eliminate some leaks. I did the tune up and considering the previous owner had bought and installed a new distributor and ignition controller in an attempt to fix the miss the ignition should be good now. I spent a lot of time routing the wires and making nice looms from zip ties. I saw this trick years ago in Hot Rod magazine and I still use it today. You wrap one tie around the wires and then put a tie between each wire and tighten it all down evenly.




With the truck running good I started on some little details. I replaced the battery terminals and cleaned the throttle body. I removed the window tint, I can hardly see at night as I am old LOL and I didn't need it to be worse. I removed the restricter in the intake tubes and the airbox. I replaced all of the fluids and oils except the coolant....more on that later. The rear axle had been rebuilt (I have the receipt) due to the pinion nut coming loose and wearing the gears. This is a common thing with Sterling 10.25 axles. The ring and pinion and all bearing were replaced. Should be good for life now with the locktighted nut LOL.

I drove the truck a couple of weeks, it drove great and has tons of torque. It pulls hills in OD that would have had my old V10 downshifting and screaming. It gets 13+ MPG, about the same or slightly better than my old truck and with more torque it is just plain easier to tow with. It's first shakedown run was to New Bern to pick up a used set of 16.5 wheels for my plan that was hatching to run 37" surplus MTRs. More on that later....

Truck did great on the trip and I was falling in love......

 

[Ron]

Why go back with a Cat after deleting the other emission equipment?
Just a NC inspection deal?

 

[ponykilr]

No, I cannot stand the smell of raw exhaust. It gets all in your clothes and gives me a headache. A good cat burns this stuff and cleans up the exhaust so it has no smell. You will get a little pungent odor when cold for a few seconds until it lights off but unless you are standing beside the outlet it isn't an issue. I actually am a fan of catalysts, a good high flow one has no negative impact on performance and to me the plusses are worth the $100 ebay admission price.

 

[ponykilr]

During all of this, we bought my daughter a truck. We found her a very clean 96 F150 4x4. It's a short bed regular cab with a 300 six and 5 speed. It had a painted front bumper and black grill, we decided to take the chrome bumper from my truck and install it on the F150. My daughter's boyfriend had gotten her a chrome grill too so we started swapping parts. I also found her a really nice chrome rear bumper. I painted the wheels and put on a set of used 31s. Her truck is really nice. We plan to put on some chrome mirrors and wheel well trim but other than that it looks fantastic. She wants a 2" front level for now and maybe some 33s. She named it Lafawnduh.....










So now I had nice straight front and rear bumpers to paint to match my grill on the F350.

We took the seat from our "parts truck", a 92 F150 4x4, which was very nice with no tears and cleaned it with purple power and the pressure washer. It came perfectly clean. We pressure washed the seat belts and cleaned up her interior. It looks fantastic.





Now I had a good high back bench from Lafawnduh to have covered for my F350. The F350 had a dodge split bench installed. This is a popular swap in these trucks but I wanted the factory style seat. I took the bench from Lafawnduh to the upholstery shop, Glen's Seat and Top here in Smithfield. I wanted vinyl and they recommended a heavy duty material called Endurex. They ordered it in the right color and I thought I was close to getting the truck like I wanted it.

As we were about to leave Glen's, we noticed coolant on the pavement. I then saw it on the front leaf. I then realized something was wrong

The radiator end tank was leaking , I hustled home to begin another page of this story.

 

[ponykilr]

I decided that I wanted to get a new radiator rather than getting tanks put on the old one. It just makes no sense to fix one when a brand new one is $139. I found a coupon code for Advance Auto which saved me 35% by paying online and picking up in the store. I also decided to eliminate the factory oil cooler. These coolers are known to fail and put a few gallons of coolant in your oil. A ruined engine would make me want to kill an engineer so I researched the options. Most folks remove the cooler and install a remote filter kit as the cross member makes it impossible to mount a filter directly on the block and a remote filter will keep oil from running all over the frame when changing the oil.

The factory cooler which connects to the lower radiator hose and has the oil from the filter running through it.

This turned into the biggest project yet with the truck. I ordered a new radiator, all new gates hoses, new belts and a 180* Tstat. I ordered a oil filter relocation adapter for the engine block and a remote filter mount. I planned to use custom hydraulic hoses to connect the two.

Problem #1 turned out to be that the straight out block adapter did not leave enough room to install JIC 45* adapters for the hoses.




So I ordered a 90* adapter and it allowed plenty of room.






I put in all the new parts. I found that the heater hoses were original Ford as well as the lower hoses that connected to the oil cooler! I went to the Parker hose store after some measuring and had my oil hoses made. I used really nice sheathed 2 wire hydraulic hose with JIC ends. I really recommend the Parker store over ordering hoses with the relocation adapters in a kit. You get the perfect length for your truck and much better quality. These hoses are rated at 3000 psi, 300*, are 34" long and should last the life of the truck. I mounted the filter on the right side of the chassis, it is up out of harms way but easy to get to for oil changes. I made a little bracket to keep the hoses safe and another little bracket to keep the block adapter from ever loosening on the block. It connects to a stud on the exhaust manifold and to the adapter as a safety precaution for my peace of mind.









While I was down there I replaced the slightly weepy front timing seal and after the above picture I cleaned the oil pan and cross member with Gunk Engine Brite.
Now we were waiting for the seat to be done. Those bumpers need some attention........

 

[ponykilr]

I decided when I bought the truck that I wanted to run some 37" surplus Hummer tires. I contacted Jeff in Lillington who sells these tires cheaper than anyone and is a good guy to boot. The wife and I went down there and arrived early on the Saturday he got some in, he usually sells out in one day. We were first! and I hand picked my tires and we brought them home.

Well, I have these $300 military surplus 37" MTRs to go on my truck so that means I need bumper clearance. People have run these tires on this body F350s with no lift and just some bumper cutting. Since I am a fan of big tire/low lift and like the way that looks, I decided to get to work on a bumper.




So, I have this painted bumper from my daughter's truck. I get it on the workbench (tailgate) and measure my angle to get me about 2 inches of added tire clearance (at bottom edge of bumper, air dam is cut back around 4") . Sharpie and a straight edge....




Break out my DeWalt 4.5" grinder and get to cutting. I used my jigsaw to cut the plastic air dam. Easy Peasy




Use the orbital sander and some 80 grit to smooth it up and not cut my fingers off later.




I get it sanded all over with the orbital, then wet sand it with a red scotchbrite and purple power degreaser. Blow dry with compressed air.




Tape up the plastic air dam.




I primed with Duplicolor self etching primer and painted with Duplicolor satin black wheel paint. Supposed to resist weather, sun and detergents. After untaping the air dam, I painted it with flat Krylon plastic paint.




Got it bolted on, looks good. Went from chrome bumper to black, I think it looks pretty tough.

View attachment 178835











This was an easy and fun project. I am not sure I love the air dam and I may decide to remove it later, but I do like how it hides the spring hangers and radiator support. 37s here we come.

 

[ponykilr]

My original rear bumper was chrome and bent up like a snake on methamphetamine. luckily I had the perfectly straight rear bumper from Lafawnduh





Well after refinishing my front bumper, the new rear bumper was ugly as a fart in church. I had planned on using the same Duplicolor satin black wheel paint I had used on the front but once I got to the parts store, I had another idea.....

Bedliner. I looked online and people had nothing but good to say about this stuff, Duplicolor Bed Armor. So after removing the plastic cap from the top of the bumper (pain in the butt!), I used a 120 grit sanding sponge, water and Purple Power to sand it thoroughly and remove any contaminates. I then went over it with a red scotchbrite and more detergent. When I was done, I rinsed it with high pressure water and blew it dry with compressed air.

I then used Duplicolor self etching primer to prepare it for the coating. After it flashed off, I shook the Bed Armor for a couple of minutes and started to spray. It took 4 light coats to cover it completely and create a good texture. I was glad the primer was green as it allowed me to make sure of even coverage of the Bed Armor. The coating requires 20 minutes between light coats to avoid sags.

I am VERY happy with the result. It looks great and should be very durable. I will use this product again for sure.

Anyway, some pics.

 

[ponykilr]

Kay from Glen's seat and top called me to let me know my seat was ready. I shuffled over there and picked it up. They did a great job on the sewing and I love the vinyl. It matches the color very well and I have always said these are the most comfortable bench seats ever. I soaked my seat belts in laundry detergent over night and then pressure washed them. They look like brand new. Riding in style brothers and sisters













I have a Ford cup holder from some truck or other. It took some trimming on the bottom but I got it fitting good and now I can sit my mint julips down while changing gears.

 

[ponykilr]

I wanted my Ham radio mounted up on the ceiling between the visors. I did not want to damage my headliner by drilling through it so after some thought I hatched a plan. I made an aluminum plate and mounted it by using the visor clips and their screws. It was covered in vinyl and worked but I was not happy with it overall, I wanted something better.




I started by cutting another piece of 1/8" aluminum 3" by 17". I cut some radio brackets into it, cut them to length and bent them between 2 pieces of oak in my vise.

Some holes drilled to line up with the visor clips and a couple for the radio mount screws and it was done.

Then I primed it with etching primer and painted it. I decided on black even though I have the correct blue. It just seemed to go with the radio better.

Some pics.

 

[ponykilr]

So those crappy old wagon wheels I scored for a Franklin got the royal treatment today. I took them to Gainey's Sandblasting in Linden NC today to be prepared for paint. (Gainey's does great work for reasonable money and is a heck of a nice guy to boot, (910) 980-0621)



At the blaster



All cleaned up



In Rustoleum etching primer



Sealer by Rustoleum



VHT Cast Iron Gray enamal





In the oven one at a time to cure at 200* for an hour. The wife did not like my baking and I had to clean the oven when I was done. It involved turning on the self clean....but still I didn't like her tone




Not bad for wheels that most people didn't think were worth saving.
When I sent the picture of the finished product to my buddy he wanted to know where I got the cool wheels. He did not believe they were the ones I bought in New Bern

Next stop? Mount up my 37" MTRS

 

[DAWGTOY]

nice work. i like seeing old iron refurbished and giving good service again.
good work on the daughters truck too.

 

[ponykilr]

I forgot about adding the cruise control. The 92-97 trucks all come wired for cruise whether they have it or not. All you need is the servo/cable assy and the controls I.E. steering wheel (with airbag) or horn pad (without air bag).

I located a servo and a horn pad and had it shipped in. Took all of 10 minutes to install, simply plug n play. Makes trips much nicer.

 

[NickMaul]

Very Clean work going on here

I admire the body lines on the older fords a lot more than the newer stuff. Same goes with old square body Chevrolets.

 

[NCrunner4x4]

I have always liked that model Ford trucks. I have been keeping an eye out for a crew cab diesel in that body style but damn things are expensive in good shape.

 

[ponykilr]

Any Diesel and any F350 is expensive. That front Dana 60 makes people go bonkers (me included) and if it burns oil they lose their dang minds LOL

There is one for sale on FTE for 25K LOL

 

[shawn]

The rear axle had been rebuilt (I have the receipt) due to the pinion nut coming loose and wearing the gears. This is a common thing with Sterling 10.25 axles. The ring and pinion and all bearing were replaced. Should be good for life now with the locktighted nut LOL.

The pinion nut doesn't loosen. One of two things happens. Either the pinion bearings wear out, allowing the pinion to wobble around, or it pulls the tiny-ass threads on the pinion, again leading to wobbling around.

BTDT.

 

[shawn]

I decided that I wanted to get a new radiator rather than getting tanks put on the old one.

Wish I'd known about this. I have a new two-row aluminum that you could have. FMS plug wires, too.

 

[ponykilr]

You should have known I needed it LOL

 

[ponykilr]

Going to try to get the runflat grease out of the tires today. Lots of paper towels, some latex gloves and a garbage bag. More pics and OBS awesomeness later.

 

[Lurch830]

Like the looks of this one! I've always liked the look of the OBS Fords.

 

[HDMike]

Nice trucks and I know what you mean! I love my FSB and have no desire whatsoever to get rid of it. I have also been looking for a diesel. I have looked at 97's, 02-03 and 12-14 year model diesels! Man people think they have gold with the 97 7.3 low mileage trucks! But I sure would love to have one!

 

[jyaks]

I've got a set of the chrome mirrors if Lawfanduh still needs them. I too have a parts truck f150