The Urban Assault Vehicle Buildup

a dually ton truck towing another vehicle... it only takes one pissed off trooper to add on an overweight charge to a speeding ticket, seat belt ticket, etc. It's not like you've got a half ton w/ a tow dolly.
 
rich- that's what I had in mind. these 215's are ROLLING to do highway speeds.

jim- I have the class a CDL, the logbooks, wide load signs, I'm escort certified, NC safe driver certified, HOWEVER! I don't have a co-driver, hazmats (yet) or a 40k tag. I'm screwed LOL

Flipper- I don't think I'll tow over 7k pounds unless I'm towing doubles (which I might so I will have to get a larger tag then.)

pics soon. also- where are you guys getting goosenecks?
 
THe tag on the truck INCLUDES the truck. Unless I misunderstood what you are saying... A 7,000 lb tag will cover the truck (maybe), but towing ANYTHING you will be overweight.
You are right the tag includes truck weight and anything being hauled by it. I only had 10k # tags on my truck and hauled with it atleast once a week. I dont know how i never got pulled. Guess i just got lucky.
 
The tag weight INCLUDES the truck... a weighted tag needs to cover the total weight of everything
 
I have a 4000# tag. It won't even cover my truck, but it's what they gave my wife at the tag place. It also expired in Jan 06.:flipoff2:

KNOCKING ON WOOD
 
damn, I better get a 15,000lb tag!!! I am permitted for 90,000 at work... I was mistaken on the tags meaning.

damnit, there goes $200
 
just for reference my truck and trialer is 9,100lbs, i have 10k tags so i am building a 899lb one seater buggy with aluminum tube filled w/helium. as long as you have a weighted tag 7k is a bit low and your not a dick to the cop youll be alright.

good looking truck by the way
 
Jason...I'm tagged for 9000lbs and it is only like $80 a year. I had it at 12,000 lbs and it was twice that.

Jed is tagged for about 20,000 and it hurt my feelings when he told me how much that was.
 
thanks chase, it's almost "blacked out" now and 90% cleaned up.

scott- gotcha... I think I'll go with the 12k tag then... I can handle that. my tag was $28 LOL
 
I had 3.55's..

With 4.10's, you'll probably want a taller tire to get your effective gearing down to 3.73 unless you're gonna tow 2 rigs all the time.. (You'll need spacers for the duals)


Most of the time you can run a 255/85-16 without needing spacers for the rear.
 
Most of the time you can run a 255/85-16 without needing spacers for the rear.

Maybe with the '99+ trucks that came stock with 235's, but the <'99's came with 215's, and 235's are about it without a spacer.
 
I am gonna get some 1/2" spacers and run 285/75/16's on it. Do you guys think 1/2" spacers will be enough?

what about lug stud length?
 
285s are 50mm wider than 235 at the tread section.
That equates to ~2inches.
 
I'd go for the 1/2" spacer and 255/85/16s, they may very well be taller than a 285/75.....


255*.85 = 216.75
285*.75 = 213.75

So on the same size rim the 255s would in fact be 6mm (~.2inches) assuming of course the tires are sized to nameplate.
 
thanks guys... I will look up some 255/85/16's and see which set I want.

big tire, no rub, E load range is what I'm all about lately.

I did some more trim replacement/painting black yesterday. I need to do the "honeycomb" b/c all the clips were breaking yesterday when I tried to take it out.

I need a stock tailgate in good shape... anybody have one? thanks
 
the title of this thread should be "The Urban Assault Vehicle Buildup"... what happened?

I've named her the UAV
 
can anybody who has 255/85/16's on a 2nd. gen 3500 post up some side and rear view pictures please?

I want to see if I will be happy with them or if I need to start setting up for aluminum 19.5's etc... thank you.

also- anyone who is running a 285/75/16... those same pictures would be nice. what size spacers are you running also please.
 
44's on 22's

tint the windows

add a "I'd rather be Cummin than Strokin" sticker

call it a day
 
haha- that's funny.

keeping the tires small b/c it is a tow rig. windows will be tinted to 20% asap, the UAV will only rock a handful of stickers lol.

I do have a rig on 44"s though!!!
 
Nice truck!
You're gonna love it. I also have a '96 Ram 3500 CTD, exact same truck as yours... except its 2WD... reg cab... green... more miles... uglier... etc.

From my experience:
Before you do any power mods take care of the transmission first. When my stock trans went out, I had a guy from DTR that goes by "mcmopar" (Phil is his real name) do the rebuild on my transmission. It cost $2,400 for the rebuild, along with a Goerend valvebody and single disk low stall torque converter. Its nice, but I still will probably end up doing a 5spd swap and selling this transmission. He says it is good for 350-400HP, which is more than I plan on making for quite some time.

One of the things you should do is tab the "Killer Dowel Pin", its an alignment pin that can fall into the timing gears and... wreak havoc. Its a small price (at $44 from TST) to pay for the assurance that it will not fall out and cause catastrophic damage. Here are a whole bunch of pictures I took when I tabbed mine. It is great to have a helper when you remove the fan shroud.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=143355

Get rid of the K&N. Fast. Replace it with a BHAF, I got mine online for around $44 I think. Took me all of 10 minutes to install, the hardest part was getting the intake tube around the lip of the filter because the rubber was super stiff since it was really cold out.

I got a 4" downpipe and some 5" pipe from a person on DTR, and for half a year drove it just like that, it exited right before the end of the cab. Now its finished off with a 6" side dump exhaust... Please, PLEASE, take note: it is LOUD. VERY LOUD.

Now, I am 18 years old and absolutely love it. My 47 year old dad thinks very differently, and is perfectly happy with the sound and performance of his stock 1996 Ram 2500 CTD.
A MBRP 4" turbo-back exhaust would probably be perfect for you, very very easy to install, and includes a muffler, it sounds really good but isn't as obnoxious as a straight pipe.
No cat to gut, That's not a cat you are looking at better start reading more.
Sorry, but that is incorrect. The 1996 CTD did in fact have a cat, it is not a resonator. I've seen this discussion happen many times before, and the truth is there is a catalytic converter on these trucks.

OK, so lets say you've taken care of the KDP, transmission, you now have BHAF and a nice sounding 4" exhaust system.
Before you do any performance mods besides the BHAF and the exhaust, GET GAUGES. They MUST come first. Since you have an automatic transmission, and plan to tow, you will need a transmission temperature gauge, along with a pyrometer at the least. But get a boost gauge while you are at it too. I have ISSPRO gauges and really like them. I haven't hooked up the transmission temperature gauge yet though.

I see that you don't want to grind your own plate. Thats fine, though it is very easy to grind your own, I understand that you may want to keep the stock one just in case. Start with a #10 plate, and move it just a little forward of the stock position, keeping the AFC housing in basically the same position too. See what kind of EGTs you get, and adjust accordingly. I have a #10 plate a little forward of the stock position. You wont' believe the difference it makes over stock.
So this is where my personal experience ends, and others can guide you. I will probably do a GSK next so I can wind it out a little more, but for now I am more than happy with the #10 plate. The highest EGTs that I have seen with the plate are right around 1150-1200 degrees, thats holding it to the floor for as long as I could just to see how warm it would get. Before the plate I saw EGTs around 900 or so.

235/85/R16s are a good fit for these trucks. I don't remember seeing what gearing you have, but if you have 4.10s you might want to go one size up. You may need spacers though. I have 3.54 gears and the 235s go great with them. They look a lot better than the stock size tires too.
Here are a few pictures:

Yes, its ugly, I'm sorry :(.
ai2.photobucket.com_albums_y23_Diesel_Fuel_Only_Rigs_20of_20Rods_P1010008.jpg


6" Side Dump
ai2.photobucket.com_albums_y23_Diesel_Fuel_Only_Rigs_20of_20Rods_P1010009.jpg


Gauges
ai2.photobucket.com_albums_y23_Diesel_Fuel_Only_Rigs_20of_20Rods_P1010010.jpg


While the stock stereos are actually pretty good, its nice to upgrade it. I really like this Alpine unit. I should get some better speakers though...
ai2.photobucket.com_albums_y23_Diesel_Fuel_Only_Rigs_20of_20Rods_P1010011.jpg


BHAF
ai2.photobucket.com_albums_y23_Diesel_Fuel_Only_Rigs_20of_20Rods_P1010012.jpg


Phil paints all his tranny's green.
ai2.photobucket.com_albums_y23_Diesel_Fuel_Only_Rigs_20of_20Rods_P1010013.jpg


Well... there you have it. Hope I helped you out some. Your truck looks great, and will give you many many miles of trouble free service.
 
A BHAF will add very little air flow. Only proven filter to show any improvement what so ever is the AFE Mega Cannon stage one. Grind your plate and do some small tuning , All can be done yourself to make you happy with your power level. 4 inch exhaust kits are cheap starting at around $250.00. Trannys is another great subject. I prefer suncoast but im a suncoast vendor, You could buy the complete tranny and get a great warranty or, get someone such as Olee Poole to do a complete rebuild and put in a Good converter and valve body and you'll be set!

If i can help give me a call (828)773-6625
 
thanks to both of you.. both posts should prove helpful. I bookmarked your KDP install b/c that's first on my list.

I am looking forward to building this thing over the summer. Until then I will just work on getting it to "look" right. My bugshield flew off today and broke in half over the windshield, scared the piss outta me. LOL
time for a little ebay'ing.
 
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