timing

Depends a lot on how many miles is on your engine. I'm old school and used to never set one with timing light. Mainly by sound of the engine and how it cranked after sitting for just a minute.

With today's engines/ computers you may not be able to set by ear anymore. It's been years since I've messed with timing issues.
 
well, this is a late 70's dodge 318, Fires up and runs pretty good so long as it's warmed up. needs the carb adjusted and I figure the timing checked if not adjusted. It runs rather rich so I was going to check it all. Just wasn't sure how you figure what is best for any given engine. i.e. how do you know when it's right?
 
On older carbed engines you can set it to factory specs if timing gears/ chain are relatively new. On an engine pushing 100k the chain will more than likely have some play.

If it starts fine and seems to run good except for running rich, I'd leave the timing alone.
 
96tacolx said:
On older carbed engines you can set it to factory specs if timing gears/ chain are relatively new. On an engine pushing 100k the chain will more than likely have some play.
If it starts fine and seems to run good except for running rich, I'd leave the timing alone.
Click to expand...


+1.

If its running a bit rich you tweak timing and alter that, but you could also rejet the carb...its funny rejetting the carb is a hassle and changing timing takes 2 minutes guess which one every9one tries.
 
rejetting was a thought too, but it's a stinkin' 2brrl Carter (I think) on it. Rather just swap in a 4 brrl and Intake and get some more air to it too.

guess it's really a balance of all things.
 
mbalbritton said:
1. don't know what factory spec. is on it.
2. ain't nuthin' factory about this truck, certainly not the engine.
3. If factory spec is good enough, why are they adjustable at all.
quit being a smart ass Caver!
Click to expand...

1. Look it up!
2. It FACTORY in something!
3. To make up for the all the variables! (wear of timing chain/dizzy, intolerances in cap/rotor, & adjust for this like aftermarket cams/head work/stoopidly large carbs)

mbalbritton said:
quit being a smart ass Caver!
Click to expand...

:confused: Was gonna suggest you stop by when you come to W-S and we'd throw the timing light on it, but you obviously have a "better" plan...
 
Before electronic ignition controls timing could be adjusted by advancing till pre ignition or pinging occurred and then retarding a degree or two. The pinging would occur on acceleration so a test drive was required. This method would take in consideration octane of fuel, carbon deposits in combustion chambers and other factors. I had a 67 Ford van that owner's manual specified this method.
 
moldman05 said:
Before electronic ignition controls timing could be adjusted by advancing till pre ignition or pinging occurred and then retarding a degree or two. The pinging would occur on acceleration so a test drive was required. This method would take in consideration octane of fuel, carbon deposits in combustion chambers and other factors. I had a 67 Ford van that owner's manual specified this method.
Click to expand...

That be the way I do em. Factory specs are just to get ya back in the ball park if timing is off a whole bunch.
 
On older motors I would usually rev and hold engine about 2500RPM advance timing until engine starts to speed up then retard about 2-3 degrees a lot of times this was pretty good position if not it was an about right. As mentioned earlier engines with mileage, timing chain wear ect. this is a good starting point. If it turns over hard retard a couple more. My timing light was just for wall decoration.
 
Back
Top