TJ Hydro Assist?

jabrake88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Location
High Point
My steering box is pretty much gone (leaking a lot of fluid) so I was debating replacing it with the durango box but then I found this hydro assist kit from West Texas Offroad wtor so now I'm considering that since I don't have the money for PSC setup :(
Has anyone had any experience with their kit or know of an alternative, or just have other suggestions? My TJ has an HP D30 with the currectlync steering and I run 35's with maybe going to 37's whenever I need new tires again.
 
The stock Jeep PS systems are more than enough to push a large tire when you unleash them. Take notes on what the wtor kit uses and prepare to get dirty. You can make all (or most) of those mods happen in the garage with pretty simple hand tools. Like Logan said, ~$200 price range is all it takes.
 
Awesome, guess I'll look into that! Anyone on here done it with a TJ that can give any tips/tricks/parts lists? Did you attach the ram to the drag link or tie rod? I'm assuming since the tie rod doesn't go knuckle to knuckle it needs to go to the drag link.
 
Upgrade the steering to a knuckle to knuckle set up. Can do it with tres or heims. Barnes sells a nice kit and it's worth it in the long run you will break anything stock in steering with hydro assist. I did this on my Cherokee same as a TJ and with new steering was under 500 bucks.

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Upgrade the steering to a knuckle to knuckle set up. Can do it with tres or heims. Barnes sells a nice kit and it's worth it in the long run you will break anything stock in steering with hydro assist. I did this on my Cherokee same as a TJ and with new steering was under 500 bucks.

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Do you have the link to the kit? I couldn't find one for a D30 on their site.
 
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I'm using a 6" ram cause I got it cheap but i think a 8" is what everyone uses.

163ba1db581f839a8e55352a4065e467.jpg


This is why I suggested offset heims that's sitting close to straight. It contacting is what limits my turning radius now

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6" is about right for a d30. D44 full width will take anywhere from 6.5"-7.25". Just about any Dana 60 will be 8".
Talking the amount of knuckle throw here. Definitely don't want to have more movement in the ram than the knuckles will allow.
 
6" is about right for a d30. D44 full width will take anywhere from 6.5"-7.25". Just about any Dana 60 will be 8".
Talking the amount of knuckle throw here. Definitely don't want to have more movement in the ram than the knuckles will allow.
When I was looking I could never find a definitive answer some used six some used 8 some used a 8 with stops to a 7

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When I was looking I could never find a definitive answer some used six some used 8 some used a 8 with stops to a 7

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I'd measure just to be sure. Use a framers square on a fixed location on the axle tube, and reference center point (wheels straight) on the tie rod. Turn lock to lock and measure how much that center changes left and right of the point on the reference. On a d30 or toy axle you can't go wrong with a 6". I've done d44 that measured 7.15". Getting the ram shaft to slide out of the cylinder on the SC rams is a brutal beotch. Then you got spacers to stack. Needless to say I slid on two .50" spacers and called it a day.
 
I think with the 6" ram I've lost a small amount of turning radius but I'm fine with that to hydro assist

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On the bright side, your ball joints love you dearly for it. You may have lost .25" at best.
 
On the bright side, your ball joints love you dearly for it. You may have lost .25" at best.
Twice a year every year since I had it lol. I bought some of the expensive aftermarket ones for my old axles didn't really last any longer. Oh well part of it dealing with a 30

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Get a new stock box tap it and get a surplus center ram. You'll be all in for 200-250

Yeah, once I get back from moab, imma set aside some cabbage and throw a beer or 12 your way for some help on this for mine
 
I've been known to tap a box or two.

12 pack of Stella and a can of Copenhagen mint and I might even road trip up there.
 
Awesome, guess I'll look into that! Anyone on here done it with a TJ that can give any tips/tricks/parts lists? Did you attach the ram to the drag link or tie rod? I'm assuming since the tie rod doesn't go knuckle to knuckle it needs to go to the drag link.

I don't live too far from you. I could try to help out if you need a hand with anything. I just tapped my box and did Hydro assist on my YJ.
Or if you just need to borrow the taps/ any other tools you are welcome to do so.
I know some people put fittings on the box, then attach a hose to the fitting, but I just threaded the hose right into the box. I got two 90deg fittings for the ram side. I used 3/8in hose for mine.


3 918-3236 3/8" X 36" 3/8 NPTM X 3/8 NPTM 4800 PSI HYD HOSE $32.85 (I got one extra hose as a trail spare)
1 9-7258-8 1.5X8X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES $102.95 (you will need the 1.5X6X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES (6 inch ram)
2 9-6901-6-6 SAE 6M x 3/8 NPTF 90 SWIVEL $9.60 (these are the fittings at the ram.)

I had scrap metal I used as tabs for mounting it and I already had 2 3/8npt taps. I had to grind one down to make a bottom tap.

With shipping, I did it myself for just under $160...

Since I first did it, I added a PS cooler for $20

Hope this helps
:beer:
 
Yeah, once I get back from moab, imma set aside some cabbage and throw a beer or 12 your way for some help on this for mine

You might as well buy some tons with that hydro assist ram too :flipoff2:

Edit: You jeep whore

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Ive always wanted to pick up one of these and try it....

DIY 4x :: Steering :: Hydro assist steering box cap

Just pick up an new box and no disassembly or cleaning. He makes both sizes, the small and the large. Should cover all the saginaw steering boxes.
Why you still have to tap the box If I'm reading it right so why not tap one more hole and save 40 bucks

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I don't live too far from you. I could try to help out if you need a hand with anything. I just tapped my box and did Hydro assist on my YJ.
Or if you just need to borrow the taps/ any other tools you are welcome to do so.
I know some people put fittings on the box, then attach a hose to the fitting, but I just threaded the hose right into the box. I got two 90deg fittings for the ram side. I used 3/8in hose for mine.


3 918-3236 3/8" X 36" 3/8 NPTM X 3/8 NPTM 4800 PSI HYD HOSE $32.85 (I got one extra hose as a trail spare)
1 9-7258-8 1.5X8X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES $102.95 (you will need the 1.5X6X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES (6 inch ram)
2 9-6901-6-6 SAE 6M x 3/8 NPTF 90 SWIVEL $9.60 (these are the fittings at the ram.)

I had scrap metal I used as tabs for mounting it and I already had 2 3/8npt taps. I had to grind one down to make a bottom tap.

With shipping, I did it myself for just under $160...

Since I first did it, I added a PS cooler for $20

Hope this helps
:beer:

Awesome! I'm putting together a list of the parts to get over the next couple weeks hopefully and I would absolutely take you up on the offer to help out! I don't have the taps, so that would definitely be great, I think I have the other tools needed. I'll shoot you a PM one I have the parts together.

Also does anyone know if there would be any benefit in using the Durango box like people do on TJ's once going to hydro assist or would it be better to stick with the TJ box?

Thanks,
JB
 
Awesome! I'm putting together a list of the parts to get over the next couple weeks hopefully and I would absolutely take you up on the offer to help out! I don't have the taps, so that would definitely be great, I think I have the other tools needed. I'll shoot you a PM one I have the parts together.

Also does anyone know if there would be any benefit in using the Durango box like people do on TJ's once going to hydro assist or would it be better to stick with the TJ box?

Thanks,
JB
Na it's not worth it the ram fixes everything

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What he said. ^
 
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