Tow straps and towing accessories.

AX(J)15_tudor

AX(J)15_tudor

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Location
Harrisburg
New to towing a vehicle here. Looking for advice on type, brand, and number of straps for hauling my XJ. Also any recommended vendors. I've read about towing by axles should I run 2 straps per axle what strap ratings do you guys use in your configurations. Do you also compress your suspensions too or leave them unloaded. I've been researching as I go and at this point I figured I'd start with this forum's opinion. Below are my specs on my setup.

16' Kaufman dovetail steel deck with 4 tie down rings, no other mounting points really.
93 xj with aftermarket front and rear bumpers, roof rack, hi-lift jack, and winch (guessing ~4k or under but haven't weighed it)

Secondary question is my weight dist. hitch comes with a sway bar break thing. PO said he never used it when towing his Camaro. It isn't mounted would you guys mount and run it? He also didn't drill and bolt the weight dist piece to the trailer he just used the friction bolt. I bought hardware to do it as I don't see it holding in a serious incident but that involves drilling lots of holes in the trailer, any opinions on that?
 
For towing, I use four axle straps one at each corner and don't cross the straps. Has worked well for me, but there are tons of opinions.

I see no need to compress the suspension, and several possible issues that our arise from doing so, but again some will rogue differently.

Finally not sure what your towing with but I can't imagine a weight distribution hitch for towing an cj, if you need or then you don't Abe enough tw rg to start with, IMHO.
 
I normally try to run 4 straps, one to each corner attached to axles. I have hauled one truck where I had to stop and put a strap to compress the suspension slightly, it was a rather tall Tacoma and started swaying pretty bad after a bump/curve. The people behind me on the interstate probably had their life flash before their eyes.

Point being, if the rig is tall and has a very flexy suspension (that does not have good shocks) then you might want to compress the suspension some as well as axle straps.
 
Ron said:
For towing, I use four axle straps one at each corner and don't cross the straps. Has worked well for me, but there are tons of opinions.

I see no need to compress the suspension, and several possible issues that our arise from doing so, but again some will rogue differently.

Finally not sure what your towing with but I can't imagine a weight distribution hitch for towing an cj, if you need or then you don't Abe enough tw rg to start with, IMHO.
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I upgraded to a 2500 suburban for this chore. I believe it'll be close to the recommended weight where a weight distribution hitch would be suggested but still under. I bought this trailer because it came with a good hitch because originally I intended to use a 1500 ram and it would have called for one at that weight.
 
A weight distributing hitch is never a bad idea for going down the road, but they are cumbersome when you have to unhook them and such to back up.
 
I tow an XJ behind my SRW Cummins Ram and 16ft steel Kaufman steel deck trailer. I use 4 axle straps, straight off each front corner, crossed at the rear (snugged up on the diff, under the brake hard lines). Last time I towed, I busted the front shocks off, so I used the winch to hold the front down to the trailer a little.

I got my straps at Northern with coupons...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200451250_200451250
and an older version of these...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200448639_200448639

here's another good source of straps...
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/73/PackageDeals
 
Stren flex staps and axle staps....USA made, better prove than northern and a local wheeler!
 
Cool thanks.
RenegadeT said:
I tow an XJ behind my SRW Cummins Ram and 16ft steel Kaufman steel deck trailer. I use 4 axle straps, straight off each front corner, crossed at the rear (snugged up on the diff, under the brake hard lines). Last time I towed, I busted the front shocks off, so I used the winch to hold the front down to the trailer a little.

I got my straps at Northern with coupons...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200451250_200451250
and an older version of these...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200448639_200448639

here's another good source of straps...
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/73/PackageDeals
Click to expand...
 
I use four straps, cross the rears, but just started doing this because of this set up. The ratchet gets into the tire.
use 10,000 lb straps
 
For 4 8' ratchets with swivel snap hooks and 4 24" axle straps my total cost was under $100 for 10k lb break strength.

Appreciate all the help.
 
AX(J)15_tudor said:
So you can't really backup with them engaged?
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It depends on what kind it is, and I don't know them well enough to tell you much more than that.
 
Also, I have the 'old style' ratchets, but these are pretty neat:

 
Can someone explain the cross thing and why so many have specified that they don't? I only have the d ring style mounts on the trailers should I look at adding other kinds?
shawn said:
I've got one of these:
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/272/PackageDeals

Four straps to the axles, not crossed.

If you plan on using stake pockets for your attachment points, Mac's makes a strap with an integral chain end. Regular straps are designed to go to floor-mounted D-rings.
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AX(J)15_tudor said:
Can someone explain the cross thing and why so many have specified that they don't?
Click to expand...

The only reason I would cross straps is if crossing them was necessary to keep the straps from rubbing on something (tires, etc). The bottom line is that you have to consider each vehicle and each trailer separately and use a tie-down system that works for that combination. But I prefer to have the straps radiating out from the center of the vehicle's mass to tie-downs on the trailer.
 
Ok, that makes sense. My trailer seems to be setup for straps at the corners and not crossed which is what I had in mind. My o only question will be the rear brake lines and how the straps will setup around those. I could see having to cross there depending on how these axle straps I just ordered do.
shawn said:
The only reason I would cross straps is if crossing them was necessary to keep the straps from rubbing on something (tires, etc). The bottom line is that you have to consider each vehicle and each trailer separately and use a tie-down system that works for that combination. But I prefer to have the straps radiating out from the center of the vehicle's mass to tie-downs on the trailer.
Click to expand...
 
Mulishajoe said:
You can back up with weight distribution hooked up just not the anti sway
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This. Friction type anti-sway controllers need to be disconnected. I think the Reese type are okay without it.
 
That's excellent news. I have a Reese weight distribution and friction sway. I think to start I'll hook them all up, the friction sway bar has a friction release without dismounting it and that seems quick and easy.
shawn said:
This. Friction type anti-sway controllers need to be disconnected. I think the Reese type are okay without it.
Click to expand...
 
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