Toyota Avalon rev limited to 4k

EdJonesJeeper

The Stig's NC cousin
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Location
Pisgah Forest, NC
Redline on an 2001 Avalon is 6k. I've been driving my wife's car and 1st gear is stuttering at 4K like its rev limited there. It doesn't do it always.
She never gets it above 4K so it will never bother her but what the hell? Has the car got the ghost of Grandma past keeping it down?


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Only first gear? Other gears fine? Shift solenoids are common problems on these. Coils on almost all toyotas around these years are also very very common.

And it has to have a CDL code if its doing it that bad?

Make sure to use Factory stuff if you do plugs and wires, Toyotas HATE aftermarket electrical related parts.
 
Also clean the MAF sensor, it's super easy to do with a spray can of MAF/Sensor cleaner. Always do the easy cheap/free maintenance things first.

BTW, does it do this while the engine is cold and hot, or only cold, or only hot, etc...?
 
I haven't got it up past 4K in other gears[emoji469][emoji469].

It's ready for plugs and timing belt so I'll start there.


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You can get cheap oem parts on amazon. Do the water pump too its right there







My parents have one. It aint slow..
 
So after a full 100,000 mile tune up it's still having the same issue.

The only thing I can't think of is the sock that covers the fuel pump is too gunked up. Anybody have any other ideas before I rip into the fuel tank?

Still no CEL


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List the things that you replaced.

I don't particularly think this a fuel system problem. If it was was, you'd have problems that were dependent on engine load instead of engine RPM. I'd put a pressure gauge on it to know for sure before messing with anything inside the tank.

I still think it's more likely something like a MAF or TPS or ignition problem.
 
It only stalls out under load, and through all the gears.

Replaced, the timing belt, water pump gasket, fuel filter all the belts, spark plugs, and the mass air fuel sensor.

Since I'm pulling it for the fuel sock, I might as well replace the fuel pump. It's reasonable at $100.


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This sounds like an ignition problem to me. My ex-girlfriend's Ranger had the cam phaser go bad at around 90k and the thing would stumble and stutter like crap about 4k and above. Check the Crank Position Sensor, Cam Position sensor, and coil packs.
 
I just replaced the fuel pump and it runs like a scalded dog now. What was frustrating is I never got a CEL. Old Avalon sat for months at a time before we bought it and I supposed that is what made the pump fail.


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This sounds like an ignition problem to me. My ex-girlfriend's Ranger had the cam phaser go bad at around 90k and the thing would stumble and stutter like crap about 4k and above. Check the Crank Position Sensor, Cam Position sensor, and coil packs.

I'm not getting a CEL, would any of this light it up?
 
I'm not getting a CEL, would any of this light it up?

If the cam or crank position sensors failed, they should trigger a CEL. If there's a partial failure, than possibly no. A partial failure can trick the ECU into position problems, but sometimes not enough to detect a sensor problem. I would suspect the crank position sensor but not the cam position sensor for the particular problem; a cam position sensor problem usually leads to some pretty clear position problems all over the RPM range.

Coil problem will usually trigger a CEL, but not always, again depending on the failure mode.
 
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I'm not getting a CEL, would any of this light it up?

Use a code scanner to see if there are any pending codes. Those do not illuminate the CEL. Only hard faults illuminate the CEL. Depending on the fault it can take many repetitions before the computer decides it is a hard fault.

If you do not have a scanner already I recommend getting a BAFX bluetooth OBDII dongle to use with your phone to check codes. If you have an Android download Torque and it will most likely be pretty helpful.
 
We Finally got a CEL and it's p0174 with a pending p0171. System too Lean bank 2.

The local shop by my office has had it twice and have only found to replace the PCV valve that was cracked and a loose vacuum tube.

I drove it some more and the CEL came back on.

If I had a guess now I think its an injector going bad. I'm only losing power only under load.





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Was there any garbage in the tank when you changed the pump?
 
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