Toyota Pickup G52 Transmission or clutch issues

gephelps

New Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2005
Location
Durham
I joined this morning to look at a pic, so I figured I might as well post too.

Anyhow, my dad bought an 87 Pickup with a 22R/5 speed combo. It shifted fine when I test drove it and for about a week later. The day before driving to TN though it started giving issues. With the clutch pedal jammed into the floor, sometimes it won't start. No biggie, just hit the clutch start cancel. At a stop it is very hard to get into 1-4, but eventually it gets into one of them and then they are all fine until the next time you stop. It is also very hard to downshift when moving into any lower gear. Double clutching works though.


I also have an 87 with the same drivetrain. I'm starting to see the same issues. At a stop its damn near impossible to get it into gear. Once in though, no problem. I can downshift just fine though at least all the way into second. Once I stop though, it becomes a real problem. I noticed when I am slowing down however, I can put light pressure towards first and at some point the shifter will just slide in.

I hope both of us have the same issue, and hope its a fairly easy fix. I've been trying to read and the easiest things do to seem to be replace the shifter seat, master cylinder, slave clyinder, and the line.

I see the resevior has fluid and I have not noticed a leak anywhere. Both trucks are over 175k miles.

Thanks.
 
Check the start switch on the clutch pedal in the 87. If the pedal drops down, odds are the hydralics are bad, replace them. On the other one, does it maek odd sounds when you just sit in gear with the clutch in at idle? If it does, the pilot bearing might be locked up. If the pedals are high and firm in both of them, pilots might be both of 'ems problem.
 
reply

The pedal seems fine on both. The one is in TN so I can't active mess with it right now.

There seems to be pressure pushing the pedal down, but honestly I don't know if there is a spring that keeps the pedal in the up position. I thought of one more thing. With the engine running and at a dead stop, when the shifter is really hard to engage 1st, every time you try to put it into first the truck seems to nudge forward just a bit. I thought the clutch might not be disengaging, but at speed and in gear, when you push in the clutch the rpm's fall like I would expect.

I can't think of any weird noises sitting at idle in gear. Honestly, from the reading I tried to do I hope it is the hydraulics. Don't feel like pulling a tranny in this weather :)
 
If there are no leaks and everything checks out fine with the Master and Slave cylinders, then check the clutch pedal setting. It sounds like you may need to somply adjust the pedal so it will fully disengage the clutch.

Try that only if you have determined that the master and slave are not the problem. Hopefully that is all it is.
 
gephelps said:
The pedal seems fine on both. The one is in TN so I can't active mess with it right now.

There seems to be pressure pushing the pedal down, but honestly I don't know if there is a spring that keeps the pedal in the up position. I thought of one more thing. With the engine running and at a dead stop, when the shifter is really hard to engage 1st, every time you try to put it into first the truck seems to nudge forward just a bit. I thought the clutch might not be disengaging, but at speed and in gear, when you push in the clutch the rpm's fall like I would expect.

I can't think of any weird noises sitting at idle in gear. Honestly, from the reading I tried to do I hope it is the hydraulics. Don't feel like pulling a tranny in this weather :)
Click to expand...

Look on the side of the clutch pedal and jump out that switch.

There are no springs on the clutch pedals, if the hyralics fail, the pedal stays on the floor. It sounds more and more like a siezed pilot to me. However, it might have some trash wedged into thew pressure plate as well. Either one require dropping the trans. Make damn sure you replace the pilot and dont bend the seal installing the new one. :beer:
 
i got springs on my clutch pedals, pilot bearing being seized would have nothing to do with it not starting with clutch pedal to the foor, and would have nothing to do with it not shifting maybe the throw out bearing getting hung up. And pilot would be making some serious noise if it was seized. I almost gaurantee it is salve or master cylinder. Both are like $15 dollar parts and 20 min jobs. they could be letting air in and not allowing full engagement. double and triple clutching should allow shifting. I live in durham and you could bring it buy if you want.
 
Thanks for the replies to far.

No wierd noises with the clutch in and stopped.

When the trans is cold everything is great. Its only after driving and everything warms up that I get locked out of the gears at a dead stop. When this occurs, reverse grinds and I can't get it into any forward gears. Usually I try first and second back and forth and can eventualy get it in gear (with a little force). As soon as it is in gear then sihfting to any other forward gear is not a problem.

I'll keep it how it is for now I guess and when it gets a little warmer do more serious inspection (I don't have a whole lot of free time as it is and I won't be driving this much for now. My next major to do is get the k-5 and mr2 sold). Again the problem only occurs at a dead stop when everything has been warmed up. I didn't fool with it over Christmas like I had hoped, so this thread will go on hold for a while.

Do threads age out on here? On a different forum I post on you cannot reply to a thread once it is more than 30 days old.

Cperry, I appreciate the offer and maybe I'll take you up on that if we can work out a time.
 
My guess at this question would be that your slave cylinder has some air in it, or the master cylinder has some in it. bleed both very well. or better yet pressure bleed it from the bottom or vaccumm bleed it from the top.

if this doesn't resolve the issue you may have a worn out seal or cup in the master cylinder or slave that needs replacing. and like mentioned the replacement parts are cheap enough to just buy a rebuilt one. I would try the slave first. since it is the lowest point in the system and this is where the sediment would settle if there is any in the system.

just for reference mine an 84 model had a leaky cup from the aluminum particles in the system. but it had around 200k on it at the time. My master cylinder was the real culprit because it was the piston in it that was creating the aluminum stuff in the system. I found the inner seal behind the master cylinder where it passes through the firewall into the cab was leaking down under the carpet inside the truck. pull the carpet back and check for wetness just below the clutch .

there are only a few ways it could be doing what your talking about.
1. is that the slave isn't pushing the clutch in far enough. and that may be either the master or the slave as the problem.
2. the clutch is misadjusted under the dash and the pedal isn't pushing it far enough in esepcially when everything heats up.
(and by the way my clutch has a return spring on the pedal. )

3 a failing or seized pilot (this would be very noisy for one thing)
4 the flywheel warping or cracking (This isn't likely unless you've really over heated the engine or completely smoked the clutch, or you ride the clutch insanely trying to make up for lack of gearing with larger tires)

in my honest opinion I would look at the adjustment of the master cylinder first. just don't grip it with vise grips to get it loose as this will damage the piston rod going into the seal inner seal. and cause the inner seal to leak if it isn't already. (ask me how I know)

mine did the exact same situation yours is doing and was the master cylinder in the end but it also damaged the slave with the debris it created in the system.
 
Yo,
Clutch is not disengaging and causing the hard shifting. No start is something else and likely the switch on the pedal under the dash. Cluch no release sounds like the clutch master cylinder. If you change that one better do the other end slave cylinder as well. This is the easiest and least costly option. Do it first. Once hydraulics are fixed, see what you got. However, a bad pressure plate (broken fingers) will not allow the clutch to release. Seen a number of these over the years.
Start with the easiest and least costly first and work your way to the expensive stuff. Cperry is right, hydraulic parts are cheap.

My $0.02 :beer:
 
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