toyota vs jeep

So

Are you guys missing that I am talking about the front axles (in stock trim). That means no longfields.
 
All pissing aside, I guess it all boils down to the feness of the driver, and what the origanl poster wants and what he wants to do with it. We could go on all debating which ones better, but I think weve coverd the pros and cons of both.
 
Ran a welded front with birfs for alittle while. Didn't break one. I know others that still run a welded diff. to this day with birfs. Cumminsdzl just put longs in his but ran birfs for ever with 36 TSL's......... LOCKED.
 
Well

Part of has to do with how far the wheel is turned. If you're spending most of your time in low traction situations, and you don't lay into at full lock on the steering, than yeah, they may be fine.

Full lock with a wheel wedged/bound = why we have Longfields.
 
Don,t be a hater on the jeeps bro. i,ll fix a busted u joint on the trail faster than you can change that birfield!Both are better than anything with IFS.GO FOR IT.My opinion sucks!
 
atblis said:
Part of has to do with how far the wheel is turned. If you're spending most of your time in low traction situations, and you don't lay into at full lock on the steering, than yeah, they may be fine.
Full lock with a wheel wedged/bound = why we have Longfields.
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Very true. Most people with birfs turn the steering stops all of the way out to limit radious of turn. You can still turn pretty good even still. Have I seen them break? Yes I have. Straighten your wheels up before you nail it!
 
redneckcj5guy said:
Don,t be a hater on the jeeps bro. i,ll fix a busted u joint on the trail faster than you can change that birfield!Both are better than anything with IFS.GO FOR IT.My opinion sucks!
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Not hatin, just statin. Most people that actually wheel their Toyota and break birfs religiously or even know how to do it with the CAMO method.... Can change them fairely quickly. Lemme say..... 30-40 minutes tops and thats take apart, change, and put back together. That is if you don't have amillion pieces of cage to pick out of the grease. It's really easy. Take 6 bolts off of hub, pull the snap ring, 4 high steer bolts, and 8-10 seal bolts off of the back, and the entire knuckle assembly comes off. Slide birf out and new one in.:beer:

Your right about the IFS...... Straight axle is alot better.

But the morale of the story is...... Toyota is really, really tough for factory stuff. In all actuality, you can replace stock Yota parts all day and be stronger than stock Jeep parts. Most people that own Jeeps, usually upgrade when they break.


The only thing after market in my drive train is 4.70 gear set still on stock 21 spline. Dual case adapter between the 2.28 and 4.70 case, and Longfields. The output shaft is still stock in the rear case and I beat mine hard. Ring and pinions are both still stock 4.10 and I turn 38 TSL's.

The only reason I am putting so much information is to show my setup. It's virtually stock besides the LONGS. Hell, I still have one of the weak Trannies. I am still running an "L" series. I broke an output shaft in my rear T-Case under one hell of a load and nothing else gave.

I hope all of this information helps the original thread starter.:bounce2:
 
The freedom of speach is the freedom to disagree.I agree.When your spotter says hit it, mash the pedal on the right!Then fix it.
 
i have a 87 jeep wrangler and a 84 yota. everything is stock on the yota as far as axles tranny and tranfercase and i say toyota is better
 
wow this all started because i cant afford to tear up my daily driver(97 tj )any more.so i found a 82 yoto pu for about the same price as a beater cherokee.maybe with a little stronger drive train and less hp i can do more wheeling with less breakage.whith a trail rig i wont have to worry rolling over in a mud hole,scratches,dents and breakage because now i can still go to work to fix breakage.i was leaning toward the yota but thought i would ask for some opinions and wow at the opinions.thanks everyone.
 
tjruss said:
wow this all started because i cant afford to tear up my daily driver(97 tj )any more.so i found a 82 yoto pu for about the same price as a beater cherokee.maybe with a little stronger drive train and less hp i can do more wheeling with less breakage.whith a trail rig i wont have to worry rolling over in a mud hole,scratches,dents and breakage because now i can still go to work to fix breakage.i was leaning toward the yota but thought i would ask for some opinions and wow at the opinions.thanks everyone.
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Your welcome! Go Yota. I wouldn't steer you wrong.:driver:
 
The final word... Toys are for boys. Jeeps really are for Barbie! Ithink it's great that the toy guys upgrade their stuff (for the most part) with............Toy stuff. L series tranny to a W or R series, 4 cyl diff to a V6 diff or LC hi pinion. Jeep owners just tear out the Jeep stuff and throw it away and put in Ford or Chevy or Dodge. I vote you go for the Yota. You won't regret it.
 
Not all Jeep stuffs bad

Jeep owners just tear out the Jeep stuff and throw it away and put in Ford or Chevy or Dodge. I vote you go for the Yota. You won't regret it.
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Not sure what the point is. So...you're vehicle is "pure" or something? I just use whatever is the best part. Don't care who makes it.
 
rattlecanpaint said:
Ithink it's great that the toy guys upgrade their stuff (for the most part) with............Toy stuff. L series tranny to a W or R series, 4 cyl diff to a V6 diff or LC hi pinion. Jeep owners just tear out the Jeep stuff and throw it away and put in Ford or Chevy or Dodge. I vote you go for the Yota. You won't regret it.
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Not always :)

Mine had:
Ford front axle
Dodge rear axle
Chevy master cylinder
Toyota engine/tranny/t-case

BUT I had a Tacoma. I first upgraded from IFS to a D44 front, because a D44 was easier to swap in than a Toy axle (diff on wrong side).

Never taken apart a Toy axle the way coondogger is describing, don't see any reason it wouldn't work though. I do know I could probably change an axleshaft fairly easily in a D44 or D60 in 30 minutes though. A Dana axle is not near as messy, that is for sure...

Stock vs. Stock, the Toyota hands down. The Jeep has one good thing going for it, ENGINE. The 4.0's are pretty good engines, with plenty of power. BUT you shouldn't have a problem offroad with the Toyota.
 
Yeah

My Jeep is a total mut. It is far from being "pure" (not that there is such a thing for a Jeep).

(Not that you guys care)
Right now it is
1979 258 with 1996 Grand Cherokee head. Intake is from a 88 YJ. Carburetor is off of some Ford. Distributor came out of a 74 Nova. Alternator is out of a Pontiac Transport. Electric fan is from a ford Taurus. A good bit of the wiring is actually out of a Lincoln MkVIII. Rear axle is from a Commando. Front axle is original but has stuff from a Scout in it. Steering column/shaft/box are out of a 95 YJ. Rear driveshaft is a shortened Exploder shaft. Front driveshaft is a stock Cherokee shaft. Yokes for the Tcase were pulled from XJ tcases. Seats are getting swapped for Volvo seats one of these days.

Might do a TBI swap.

Distant future plans are
4.3/SM465/D300 (maybe a Stak)
Isuzu Rear Axle (maybe a Yota rear)
Toyota Front Axle
XJ spring stretch in the rear.

Could care less about my vehicle being true to a certain manufacturer.
 
geezzz... stock... bone ass stock

axles toy
motor jeep
tranny toy
cases toy
chassie toy

aftermarket stock bassicly the same.

with 33's you could rune stock yota stuff worry free with a little common sense. if you are welded front and have your wheels turned hard over and hit the gas then your birfs will explode... prolly at the same time a shitty d30 joint would blow under the same conditon. go toy and have fun and if you want to get silly later all you have to do is call, bobby, TG, MC and or front range and you are set.

my junk is on 42 iroks on toy junk. in fact the rear end is a BONE STOCK v6 axle try that with a d35
 
um... wow so i dont feel so stupid for preaching toyota to everyone down here at uncc... Jeeps are everywhere, recon' its cause' boys with $$ buy the ICON of a jeep, then realize its actually FUN to wheel the sht, and then realize they wasted mucho $ when my welded, POS, 4 bangin, yo-yo pulls them out, gets them un-hung, and putts past them in low/low unlocked... lol

"edit, def. NOT talkin about the actually respect-able guys down here with jeeps, that know/build and wheel there stuff, chris,mac, jeepers that there should be more of, lol)
 
I beat my stock toy rear axle to death (ask anyone who wheels with me) with 39.5's. Broke 2 Shafts in my 7 years of wheeling that rig.

My XJ I broke ring and pinion, 2 shafts, Cross-Pin, Spiders gears and many u-joints (driveline) on 33's in a D35.

Don't count out Toy driveshafts, I never once broke a u-joint or CV in a toyota DS.

Toyota front, stock with 4:10's, 39.5's, Lock-rite and old welded longs. Broke 2 stock inners and 1 Longfield

XJ front, spend $$$$ to have unlocking hubs, decent wheelbearings and 297 Joints. Killed several shafts and chipped ring gears 2x.


TOY STUFF ALL THE WAY. I've been down both roads, and only the toyota stuff got me home :fuck-you:
 
The trade off between the trail fixes of the two axles is comparable. Yes, it takes longer to change a birf than a ujoint. But you break a R&P on that jeep axle....what are you gonna do? Wish it back together? On that toy you can throw another 3rd in and keep playing. The way CoonDogger talks about taking the knuckle off is the only way I will do it if im not in the garage. Running longs now, so hopefully I wont ever have to do it again (unless i break a R&P).
 
slravene said:
The trade off between the trail fixes of the two axles is comparable. Yes, it takes longer to change a birf than a ujoint. But you break a R&P on that jeep axle....what are you gonna do? Wish it back together? On that toy you can throw another 3rd in and keep playing. The way CoonDogger talks about taking the knuckle off is the only way I will do it if im not in the garage. Running longs now, so hopefully I wont ever have to do it again (unless i break a R&P).
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I was one of the guys who helped cage your truck. Given that Propane Powered 22R I think you'll be fine. Especially if you went 30 spline. I never broke a r&p in toy stuff.
 
atblis said:
Not sure what the point is. So...you're vehicle is "pure" or something? I just use whatever is the best part. Don't care who makes it.
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I do use the best part.....a Toyota part.:flipoff2:
 
Damn, some of your guys are just ridiculous! lol But I won't lie, I do miss my 99 Tacoma TRD 4wd and NEVER got stuck with that thing. Ran it through, over, and in some crazy stuff. All I know is that I have a lot more fun driving my TJ around, but damn did the ladies love my old Taco. Gotta love redneck women. haha
 
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