Trailer Build

brokeass4runner

brokeass4runner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2005
Location
Charlotte
Well my tube doors project has turned into a trailer project.
16' x 8' deck, tandem axles, electric brakes all around, outrigged, dovetailed, 6" channel frame and 3" channel for the ribs, fenders, adjustable width wheel ramps.
 

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I think your axles are a little too far back for a bumper pull?
 
102"
 
Rich said:
I think your axles are a little too far back for a bumper pull?
Click to expand...

Yeah, that pic is not to scale. I have been told it is 60/40.

Is it better to have the weight favor the front or the back?
I was planning on building a frame and then going from there.
 
If I was building a trailer I'd strongly consider plans or maybe a kit. Also, I'm not sure what your tow rig is but if it's not a big diesel (or big something) I'd go as small and light as I could but no smaller.

Maybe this will help: http://www.trailerplans.com

$30 for plans seems like a cheap way to make sure it comes out right.
 
If your rig doesn't need a 20' trailer, then make one shorter. I would suggest a 16' or less. Getting in tight places will be fun with a trailer that big (although it isn't TOO big as far as trailers go). My 6x12 (7x12 now) is plenty for my truck, pulls very nice, and is super easy to maneuver.
 
^can't buy plans. It's for a fabrication project in for a college course. Has to be his own design. I am thinking that the size being a little larger is to leave opening for change in vehicle being put on it and allow it to be more then just for towing a trail rig (not sure though) plus all the materials are paid for, not out of pocket (gotta love scholorships). The older design had a spare tire carrier built on it in the front as well as a tool box so I think that might be another reason for length.
 
IMHO, 6" channel is overkill unless you plan on hauling a 15K# + piece of equipment.

The material may be paid for with scholarship $, but why add weight where its not needed. I'm guessing you are pulling the 4runner...

At most, I'd build a 16' hauler with 4" channel with 3" channel ribs spaced 18" apart. This is great for a 4runner and you don't need a Mack truck to pull it. Some car haulers are even 3x3 or 4x4 angle. Light weight, but well built, and they work...

If you plan on hauling a piece of equipment occasionally (or rarely), just build the trailer frame to fit the 4runner and oversize the axles for capacity you may see in the future. It won't add much weight to oversize the axles, but will be much more beneficial than building a tank for a trailer. Your tow rig will thank you.


Rob
 
Not to bad of a design... looks like a bob cat trailer... here is mine...

16' bed 2' dovetail 83" between the tires... had fenders, but they didn't last long... definatley better to have weight forward than the rear... the Jeep tows like a champ back thier... I'm going to throw a box up front also, just haven't have time.... the axles are 2 3500 lb axles the front axle has the brakes... the best thing about this trailer is the drop axles... if you need any more pics or any ques just ket me know...

aimg.photobucket.com_albums_v92_fdrose_tellico_20pics_1loadupgeorgia.jpg
 
I built mne outta 4" c with 3" C cross beams...
its plenty heavy, even with wood deck
put a 3" I up the center for structural rigidity.

6"c would be waaaaaaaay overkill.

ANd IMHO (but what do I know) I woudl keep weight distribution around 55%
 
Diamondplate is nice for the fact that it won't rot, it doesn't warp, and it holds up well to stuff being drug across it (buckets for skid steers, etc.) It does add weight, but for as big as that trailer is, he better have a truck big enough that should be able to handle it. And with 8 tires helping to stop it, that won't be a problem at all.
 
I'd recommend wood, because once the painted diamond tread gets muddy from the rig, its extremely slippery (lost my footing a few times while loading).

I like the wood cause I can replace pieces when necessary, and ropes/straps are easy to fish between the boards to tie off odd loads, other than the 4runner.

Personal preference, I guess, but with that much deck support steel, a 1/8" floor is plenty thick. I'd go with a little less if I'm using it for strictly a toy hauler, to cut down on weight.



Rob
 
I like your design, if I were going to make the deck a full 8 feet wide Id go with a deck over design and eliminate thefenders so you have a nice flat cargo deck. I may be the only one that thinks this, but I think the more trailer you have the better as long as you have a tow rig big enough to handle the weight. Ive got a 16 footer that is perfect for hauling my vw and the old xj with a full sized rig it dosent give me a lot of room to position the load like I like it. Pluss a bigger trailer gives you room for any random crap like spare tires and tool boxes.
 
Unless you are getting creative, 83-inches between the fenders is about as wide as you can go and stay within the 102-inch max allowed width outside of tire to outside of tire, when not deck-over.

Floor: I've had my bumper pull trailer with diamond plate steel floor since 2001, and there is no way I will ever go back to wood. I have used too many wood trailers with broken boards. I have never had a problem with the steel being too hot from the sun - EVER - and I am usually wearing shorts.

I have dragged all kinds of crap across it (scrapped 40 vehicles), and other than scratches in the paint it has held up fine. There are a few small dents or gouges, but that's it. I think the deck on mine is 1/8-inch, but I can check.

If I was going to *always* haul something with tires on it, I would be fine with wood, but I've broken a board just hauling a car with a bare rim instead of a tire (sank a groove in the wood and then it broke during the trip). Maybe this has something to do with the different types of wood that can be used? *Most* of people I know with wood deck trailers do not maintain them, and they get all broken up. I have never had to do anything to my steel deck, although I will eventually need to paint it.

Also, for *my* needs, a longer trailer is better. I run out of room all the time on my 17-foot car hauler. I can't put a toolbox on the front - it's not long enough.

And I would definitely go with at least 5000lb axles no matter how I built the trailer- as rockcity said - not a lot of extra weight from the bigger axles, but you get the extra capacity (durability since you won't be over-loading it) and bigger brakes.
 
brokeass4runner said:
20' x 8' deck, tandem axles, electric brakes all around,
Click to expand...


I just re-read this.
2 tandem tire axles?
Or tandem axles?

A little lower someone mentions 8 tires, and your drawing does seem to indicate some wide rubber.

Surely this isnt a 2 dual tire axle build, is it?
 
I like the wood also. Once it's dried out, it's pretty light. I bought 10" pieces of 2X because it was the most economical more meat to go around the carriage bolts. I do recommend attaching them with Nylock type nuts instead of regular nuts and lock washers. The regular nuts come loose due to the shrink of the board. I built mine 8" wide with just enough fender to cover the tires. My fenders are 1/4" diamond plate so I can drive over them without damage. I can even park on them if needed for weight distribution because I supported them good to the frame. It's 16' plus a 2' dove tail. IT has slide in ramps although I didn't secure them as good as I should have and lost one of them. But I don't ever carry them since all I ever haul is my Jeep, and I don't need them to load it. Something across the front to keep a junker rig with no brakes from rolling over the front is a nice addition too. ( Ask me how I know) Some boxes for tie downs is also another good addition, I used big Ammo boxes welded to the front bar. I can haul about anything on it. Smaller cars fit between the fenders, Sometimes I have to lay a board or two down to drive over, so I can open the door to get out(so the door clears the fender)
 
rockcity said:
I'd recommend wood, because once the painted diamond tread gets muddy from the rig, its extremely slippery (lost my footing a few times while loading).
I like the wood cause I can replace pieces when necessary, and ropes/straps are easy to fish between the boards to tie off odd loads, other than the 4runner.
Personal preference, I guess, but with that much deck support steel, a 1/8" floor is plenty thick. I'd go with a little less if I'm using it for strictly a toy hauler, to cut down on weight.
Rob
Click to expand...
Alright guys, I have already ordered the material. Blueprint for the main structure is done. So 6" Channel with 3" Ribs is already decided. Same with the steel deck.
I just finished helping put a steel deck on a 20' trailer that once had wood. Iunderstand the weight thing, but i want it to last. I would like to put tie downs on the actual deck. And i am going to put a spare trailer tire box down in the deck so it is flush and so i dont have to go under the trailer to get a spare.
I paid $1300.70 :
6 - 20' legs of 6" channel
8 - 20' legs of 3" channel
6 - sheets of 1/8" diamond plate carbon steel
2 - legs of 4 x4 x 3/8" angle
1 - leg of 2 x 2 x 1/8 angle
And i am going to need so tube for the ramps and the front bar
Rockcity, are you ordering any tube any time soon?
 
ShyHiK5 said:
I just re-read this.
2 tandem tire axles?
Or tandem axles?
A little lower someone mentions 8 tires, and your drawing does seem to indicate some wide rubber.
Surely this isnt a 2 dual tire axle build, is it?
Click to expand...

Its just two axles and four tires.
 
not ordering anything within the next couple of weeks...

hmm...

6 - 20' legs of 6" channel = 120' x 8.2#/ft. (minimum) = 984 pounds of 6"
8 - 20' legs of 3" channel = 160' x 4.1#/ft. (minimum) = 656 pounds of 3"
6 - sheets of 1/8" diamond plate carbon steel = 160#/sheet x 6 = 960 pounds
2 - legs of 4 x4 x 3/8" angle = 40' x 9.8#/ft. = 392 pounds of 4x4x3/8
1 - leg of 2 x 2 x 1/8 angle = 20' x 1.65#/ft. = 33 pounds of 2x2x1/8

984 + 656+ 960 + 392 + 33 = 3025 pounds of materials!!! :eek:

This is just the weight of ordered materials. Assume a 10% waste factor and its still 2722.5 pounds of materials...

This doesn't incldue the axles, brakes, wheels, tires, lights, coupler, jack, spare tire, tool box, etc. etc...

Seems really heavy. You'll need some serious axles to be able to add a vehicle to the weight of the trailer (and equipment) and be within the load rating of most readily available axles.

I would also recommend a big diesel tow rig and brakes on all 4 wheels on the trailer.

This is gonna be a hoss!!

I'd like to follow this build thread.

Rob
 
The axles im looking at now are from Northern Tool. They are rated at 6000 lbs and there will be a brake at each wheel. Your right about the weight thing though.

I am planning on having a diesel down the road so I am building this trailer with that in mind. Right now I was thinking I would tow it with a 2001 Tahoe.

I really don't have any experience with towing so its all new to me. Thanks for all the advice.
 
brokeass4runner said:
The axles im looking at now are from Northern Tool. They are rated at 6000 lbs and there will be a brake at each wheel. Your right about the weight thing though.
I am planning on having a diesel down the road so I am building this trailer with that in mind. Right now I was thinking I would tow it with a 2001 Tahoe.
I really don't have any experience with towing so its all new to me. Thanks for all the advice.
Click to expand...

OK, let's look at this logically. This is going to be one heavy mother of a trailer. If the material is ordered, and not cut yet or even delivered, you can send it back. Even if they charge a small restocking fee, it'll be worth it. If you go as planned you will be able to haul the trailer around empty, and that's about it. Towing that much weight with a Tahoe is just extremely dangerous.

Your sig says "welder in training" you also said this is a school project. Do you trust your welds enough to actually carry the capacity of this to built trailer?
You also thanks us for the advice, but you are standing firm on your build and not taking any advice that is being offered. A lot of those offering your advice have experience in building trailers. Many have experience in welding, and many have experience in towing.

Step back and think logically. I myself am a believer in the " there is no success like excess" rule, but even I draw the line at practicability.

Also, tongue length is a little too short in my opinion. It will really decrease your turning radius. Another thought is the tongue jack. What kinda of capacity can you buy, will you be able to unhook with a load on it, and will you be able to get the jack up with your arm strength?

"Age and treachery will overcome youth and vigor every time"
 
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