Trailer Ramps Design

Jeffncs

Jeffncs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2017
Location
Wake Forest
Here’s the deal…. I have a 16’ flatbed equipment trailer. I refinished it top-bottom, front-back. Wires, brakes, tires, deck……. It worked great for my CJ7. No I have an early mustang and an early bronco. The bronco works fine getting up/down the ramps. The mustang wont clear the break-over from the ramps to the deck.

Some specs…
22” trailer deck height.
60”/5’ long x 3” ”c” channel steel 3/16” thick ramps

Im not in the position to buy a replacement trailer, so that’s not an option for now.

Options:
A. Buy 7’ aluminum ramps and move on ($$ but light as a feather)

B. Fabricate hinged extensions for my existing ramps using the same 3” 3/16” steel (SUPER HEAVY and upright, but functional)

C. Fabricate 7’ ramps using 2” angle with 3/16” thickness and convert to a slide-in design.

D. Sell my trailer and line up a 18’ 10k when job situation resolved.

Ideally, I want a 18’ 10k trailer, but that’s waiting until things settle. Needing / Wanting an immediate solution, thoughts on my dilemma? Should I just make my trailer work? Should i invest into the ramp redesign? Should I just ante up for the right trailer? Pics of my trailer before and during restoration are below for reference.
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If you want to eventually get rid of that trailer and upgrade, I wouldn't spend much time or money on it. I'd get the aluminum ramps and keep them for the next trailer, and the next, and the next, etc. No affiliation with them, but I seent it on the youtubes so it must be true, this company makes a decent looking product.

Best Aluminum Ramps

www.bestaluminumramps.com www.bestaluminumramps.com

Duane
 
Get a chunk of 6x6 wood post or beam and cut angled wedges to put under the leading edge of the ramps.
Basically, wooden extensions that aren't connected.
depending on how much you actually need, 4x4 might work.
 
Spend as little as possible due to future change. Fab a simple ramp overlay to carry weight of car. Place in bed of truck or store when done. Adding a dumb amount of length to what is on the 16ft will be ridiculous.

I'd almost bet the right arrangement of one 2 by 8 and two 2 by 4 with some plywood would fit the bill. Paint or texture for traction and roll out. If your hauling it must me a show car so much rain wouldn't be an issue. Your looking at how many uses between trailer flips?
 
skyhighZJ said:
2’ dovetail with existing ramps?
Click to expand...

Trailer is a flatbed - no dovetail. That’s my ideal design - 18’ 10k with 2’ dove…but can’t do it now.

I like the 6x6 option which is cheap and easy, but also really like the aluminum ramp option for a little more $$.

I’m going to assess the mustang wheelbase and height to run the numbers for minimum ramp-trailer angle. The car is low, so o May be looking at 8’ ramps!!!
 
Thanks to all. I’m going to do a little would searching and may just sell my trailer to offset a replacement of the correct design.

I love projects and making ramps would be fun. I don’t need to spend $250 on steel for a trailer that’s likely short for my ownership.
 
Jeffncs said:
Trailer is a flatbed - no dovetail. That’s my ideal design - 18’ 10k with 2’ dove…but can’t do it now.

I like the 6x6 option which is cheap and easy, but also really like the aluminum ramp option for a little more $$.

I’m going to assess the mustang wheelbase and height to run the numbers for minimum ramp-trailer angle. The car is low, so o May be looking at 8’ ramps!!!
Click to expand...
my gooseneck has a dove tail and long ramps. It is a deck over. I wanted to mention I rescued an average sedan and it would not clear the deck break over. Ramp areas was fine. As a matter the rear wheels was already on the ramp and the rockers bound on the deck break over.

Have you considered a tilt deck? You know roll backs get the call for car duty for a lot of reasons.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
my gooseneck has a dove tail and long ramps. It is a deck over. I wanted to mention I rescued an average sedan and it would not clear the deck break over. Ramp areas was fine. As a matter the rear wheels was already on the ramp and the rockers bound on the deck break over.

Have you considered a tilt deck? You know roll backs get the call for car duty for a lot of reasons.
Click to expand...

Great suggestion. I have considered a tilt deck. I saw a gravity tilt the other day and was a little surprised the $ wasn’t more.

I may drive by a local trailer lot and look at his options. Just to gather info.
 
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Jeffncs said:
Trailer is a flatbed - no dovetail. That’s my ideal design - 18’ 10k with 2’ dove…but can’t do it now.

I like the 6x6 option which is cheap and easy, but also really like the aluminum ramp option for a little more $$.

I’m going to assess the mustang wheelbase and height to run the numbers for minimum ramp-trailer angle. The car is low, so o May be looking at 8’ ramps!!!
Click to expand...
I was saying add a dovetail then you have the clearance and an18’ trailer…
 
NCJeeplover said:
I wish you wouldn't have posted this, its gonna lead to me spending more money....

In my opinion, at deckover tilt would be the perfect trailer. It'd be like a roll back you can tow with any truck. I just don't have deep enough pockets.
Click to expand...

I've considered a set myself. The more I think about how useful a set would be the closer I get to ordering some lol.

Duane
 
skyhighZJ said:
2’ dovetail with existing ramps?
Click to expand...

Gotcha. I had thought about that, but need to look at axle locations. Depending on how mine compares to a 18’ (16+2), I could get lucky and not have to move suspension/axles to balance the distribution m. I certainly have the skills and equipment to do it…and I’ll have some free time on my hands.
 
NCJeeplover said:
In my opinion, at deckover tilt would be the perfect trailer. It'd be like a roll back you can tow with any truck. I just don't have deep enough pockets.
Click to expand...
I used to think that way, but honestly the angle of a deck over tilt would still be too much for many cars, and also the traction issues of getting up on the trailer if it's wet at all. A 20-22ft full tilt (hydraulic) low deck with driveover fenders is about the perfect trailer. My jeep on full widths fits between the fenders on my trailer, so driveover really isn't even that necessary.
 
I found a different design question on my trailer…. The center pivot for the tandem axles appears to be ~9” too far rearward. I’m back to selling and buying a 18’ 10k car trailer.
 
Jeffncs said:
I found a different design question on my trailer…. The center pivot for the tandem axles appears to be ~9” too far rearward. I’m back to selling and buying a 18’ 10k car trailer.
Click to expand...
based on?
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
based on?
Click to expand...

Following the 60/40 rule, the numbers calculate 10” away from the target location. Also, practical usage suggests it too…. As an example, I had to keep my Jeep as far rearward as possible to keep the rrailer pretty level. The same was true with my mustang. That was pushed all the way back to the ramps to not dip the nose too far. Ideal balance makes me back cars onto the trailer.

Maybe I’m looking for an excuse here, but there isn’t any space at the tail of the trailer for either of my vehicles. A longer trailer designed for cars seems to be a better solution for me.
 
Jeffncs said:
Following the 60/40 rule, the numbers calculate 10” away from the target location. Also, practical usage suggests it too…. As an example, I had to keep my Jeep as far rearward as possible to keep the rrailer pretty level. The same was true with my mustang. That was pushed all the way back to the ramps to not dip the nose too far. Ideal balance makes me back cars onto the trailer.

Maybe I’m looking for an excuse here, but there isn’t any space at the tail of the trailer for either of my vehicles. A longer trailer designed for cars seems to be a better solution for me.
Click to expand...

the same argument could be made for adding a dovetail to the trailer. by lengthen the deck, you effectively change the axle location.

But low, car trailers are designed completely different, and will be able to get lower than your current trailer will be with a dove.
 
@paradisePWoffrd

Great point…. Adding a beavertail/dovetail to my trailer as an extension is certainly cheaper than a new trailer and certainly closer to my budget. I’ll have to pull out some more math to determine the right length to add.

Ironically, my trailer is a 22” tall to the top of the deck. My dads car trailer is 21”, so not terribly far off. Adding a 12-18” of beavertail / dovetail would definitely correct the balance and help the break over angle.
 
I had this problem with my enclosed trailer. It's a flat deck design, which makes the ramp door angle steep, especially with the 3.25" torsion axle lift I've got. Bought some 6' aluminum ramps off amazon, which are rated for 3000# each, and made them hook onto my ramp door. I then propped the ramp door up by about a foot to make the angles work. Cars go in nice and easy now, although it's a little bit of a pain to set up+break down. $400 for the ramps, plus some scrap wood for the spacer blocks.

Ramps I used, looks like they're $328 now:
Amazon product ASIN B07YV3S1QW
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