- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Hendersonville, NC
My immaturity speaks volumes here.I put 1 box on the tongue... and 1 box in the rear. The rear box likely isnt needed, but it is easy to access and use as a test point if needed.
My immaturity speaks volumes here.I put 1 box on the tongue... and 1 box in the rear. The rear box likely isnt needed, but it is easy to access and use as a test point if needed.
I have it going down 1 frame rail. I put a junction box on the inside frame rail, on each side, over top of the axles. Maybe not needed, but makes a test point and short leads down to the brakes.So does the wire go down the middle? I'll have to try and google and see if IO can get some video or pictures to get ideas.
I think the statement still applies.My immaturity speaks volumes here.
Yep. one company is notorious for it being all rainbow wrong. Haven't thought about multiple junction boxes. This seems really easy to split and run from but I cannot see all the extra circuits being used in the rear.I also bought one of those Amazon 7-pin plug / junction boxes. Worked great except the wire colors were wrong on mine. I had to work through that, but it was a trial-error thing.
Meh... small trailers like that shouldn't need that level of overkill (aside from tossing the scotch-locks)I need to rewire my jetski trailer. Hoped to find a link here lmao
I guess ill be buying a 4pin pigtail and running the wire myself
Meh... small trailers like that shouldn't need that level of overkill (aside from tossing the scotch-locks)
Four-Way Trailer Wiring Connection Kit, 25 ft.
Amazing deals on this 25Ft 4-Way Trailer Wiring Connection Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
Yup. Its on my gooseneck, so the boxes tuck inside the C channel frame easily. I can pull 1 screw and remove the board over top of the ones at the axles, if needed. The front & rear are accessible all the time. I will try to grab some pics today.Yep. one company is notorious for it being all rainbow wrong. Haven't thought about multiple junction boxes. This seems really easy to split and run from but I cannot see all the extra circuits being used in the rear.
@paradisePWoffrd
"I put 1 box on the tongue... and 1 box in the rear. The rear box likely isnt needed, but it is easy to access and use as a test point if needed."
All the same big bulky boxes like the pigtail for the truck?
Mine was like that also. There are multiple 7 pin patterns. Most vehicles are wired for the "RV style" (i believe), but it seems the pigtails can be "utility". I verified the colors and positions from the pigtail, and just matched up the colors going downstream. Ones the wires were terminated, you cant see the labels in the junction box anyway.I also bought one of those Amazon 7-pin plug / junction boxes. Worked great except the wire colors were wrong on mine. I had to work through that, but it was a trial-error thing.
I need to add backup lights to my big trailer. When I wired it, I put running lights every 5ft or so down the side, so atleast I can easily see it at night,I'm doing the same thing to my trailer as well.
This is what I ordered:
backup lights
Wiring
Trailer Box
I did similar, but since I used 1" PVC... used deep 1 gang PVC boxes. No glue, but did RTV the connections & screwed them to the frame. Notched the boxes & RTV'd the wires...Yup. Its on my gooseneck, so the boxes tuck inside the C channel frame easily.
I'll likely go this route too. Previous B/U LEDs were near the rear and have been run over so many times, I'm out of replacement brackets and no good place to remount... just happen to have a couple Nilight-grade 18" LED barsRegarding backup lights…. I hung a 18” LED light bar about 3’ from the back of the trailer. Mounted it using carriage bolts through the wood deck.
When I back the trailer up, I can see everything from the rear tires backwards for about 20’. The beauty is that the light bar doesn’t blind anyone spotting me into a parking spot.
I think I spent maybe $40 on the bar through Amazon…. Nilite maybe??
Works really well!
If using pods, they could be mounted on top of the rear trailer axle. Wiring is already nearby, and they should be in harms way. I might have some concern around vibration, but since trailers dont run shocks, I cant imagine it's much less.I did similar, but since I used 1" PVC... used deep 1 gang PVC boxes. No glue, but did RTV the connections & screwed them to the frame. Notched the boxes & RTV'd the wires...
I'll likely go this route too. Previous B/U LEDs were near the rear and have been run over so many times, I'm out of replacement brackets and no good place to remount... just happen to have a couple Nilight-grade 18" LED bars