Transfer case blow up # 2

tkob1060

tkob1060

Active Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Location
HIGH POINT,NC
Ok see if you guys have some ideas on what is causing my tcase to crack to pieces around the front output shaft and dump all tcase fluid. I have an 08 JK unlimited rubicon, running 5:13 gears, aftermarket front 1350 double cardan driveshaft which was replaced with brand new one after the last case blew up. The first time the case blew up the double cardan joint was busted and that was believed to be the main cause of the tcase cracking along with the transmission crossmember being bent from a couple rocks that got in the way.

I do have a steering wheel shimmy from 35-40 mph that I am sure is from my highly worn 75K mile KM2's and maybe toe being off slightly. I was planning on replacing the tierod and adjusting the toe this weekend. I was also going to order tires this week now thats on hold till I find out if dealer will warranty the tcase again and figure out whats causing the trouble for sure.

I believe it has to do with the steering shimmy this time but they insist that wouldnt do it, which makes sense because I read of plenty of people with the shimmy and no exploding tcases. The driveshaft is not broken this time.

Here is the REALLY crazy part, it blew up less then 1.5 miles from where it happened back in May on I95 in SC south instead of north this time.:shaking: Same tow truck towed me to dealer.
 
Does your driveshaft allow enough compression, so the DS does not put any pressure on the t-case as the suspension cycles?

Some pics would help out.
 
Does your driveshaft have enough angular motion so the CV joint at the TC output doesn't bind when your driver side wheel is at full droop?
 
Black Bear said:
Does your driveshaft allow enough compression, so the DS does not put any pressure on the t-case as the suspension cycles?

Some pics would help out.
Click to expand...
drkelly said:
Does your driveshaft have enough angular motion so the CV joint at the TC output doesn't bind when your driver side wheel is at full droop?
Click to expand...

sorry no pics, the jeep is in SC. I dont believe it is compressing to far and I do have adjustable control arms and the angle of driveshaft is very minimal.

here is more of the story, I was running this coastline driveshaft
http://coastdriveline.com/DriveShafts.htm CD90835

I ran that for over a year without problems till the double cardan joint busted, of course I didnt know it, and that is supposedly what caused tcase #1 to crack to pieces around output shaft. After tcase was replaced Olivers built me a new driveshaft to replace the with with broken cardan joint. I only wheeled with it once and didnt have and trouble.

Now talking to the dealer today they say that the driveshaft was not seated in the flange adapter all he way, there was about a 1/16th gap on one side. I installed the shaft and it was not like that. They are saying that gap would cause the shaft to spin unbalanced but they also want to change my transmission cross member because it is slightly bent.

I will be going to a cv driveshaft with u-joints and new yokes after this like I should have to begin with:shaking:
 
Back
Top