Transmission shop recommendations

Vulcan Classic

Active Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
Location
Winston-Salem
I have a 2004 LJ with 4.0 and 42RLE tranny113k miles. Throwing codes for TCC ( p0740) both Northpoint CDJ and L& R in Winston say needs rebuild, $2500+!!!

Any other recommended shops? I'm broke and this is my DD so gotta do something

.


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Call lee at tlc in raleigh he is transman on here great guy and awsome work he is worth the drive

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In Winston, check out A&A trans. 727-7533

Steer clear of L&R, my trans didn't last one ride after they rebuilt it and then they wouldn't warranty it.
 
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Been there, done that when I was a tranny tech at the dealer. It is difficult to distinguish between a failed solenoid pack and/or a slipping converter. I would base my repair on the amount of clutch material in the pan. If I found much clutch material at all, I would replace the converter and pump as well as the valve body (the solenoid pack came integral to the VB if I ordered one that way). There are passages in the pump and valve body that can become clogged somewhat easily when the converter "comes apart". Never had an issue when I repaired them that way.
 
novacayne75 said:
Sounds like a simple repair just not a cheap way out.
If the converter was replaced and his sols are new then the vb could be flushed and then 50/50 chance it will be good.

Buckeye Performance Inc.
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Yep. If it were mine, I would roll the dice and disassemble and clean the valve body and/or pump. But if someone is paying me and I don't wanna have to drop the VB for free in case a cleaning didn't fix it, it gets a pump, converter, valve body replacement. You and both know what happens when you try to "help somebody out".
 
I will throw Warren transmission in Winston. They have been earning my loyalty every year as there rebuilds take abuse.
 
What Jody said is good advice. Lee is solid take it to him and it will be done right. Now if you are in the Columbia SC area...:D ahem... I'm your Huckleberry. LOL! Aamco in Lexington.
 
I spoke with Lee and will likely bring it to him for valve kit work first, then rebuild if necessary, in hindsight I wish I checked sooner could've saved the 600 towards compete overhaul. This is actually my sons Jeep and his funds are limited so trying to steer him in the right direction. Appreciate all the advice guys!



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So far so good, drove home from Raleigh on Saturday and drove up to BRP on Sun.
I was surprised when Lee told me he put in DEXRONIII instead of ATF+4, but he swears its all the same stuff. He also put in some additive, LG black I think.


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So does the additive increase or decrease the friction? Assume this makes it similar to the ATF4 qualities.. I took a peak at the Lubegard website and the mix is 1 oz of black HFM per QT of ATF, correct? in the future can I just add ATF4 or stay with the DEX / LG mix?



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you could do it either way, my recommendation is dex 3 with lubegaurd. it is listed as friction modifier, it decreases friction, the major benefit of lubegaurd is the decrease in temp that it creates. for every 20 deg temp you decrease, you double the life of an automatic.
 
ever used "blue" hydraulic fluid?
 
Ron said:
ever used "blue" hydraulic fluid?
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that would be fine in older transmissions, but in computer controlled trannies, esp chryslers, you wouldn't be able to. any unit that uses a "cvi" (clutch volume index) will set codes if the wrong viscosity fluid is used. it can also create issues with the lock up plates in the converters, today's clutches are designed for specific fluid so that clutch degradation doesn't occur. back in the day when the lock up clutch was made out of actual clutch material, it wasn't an issue. today's clutches are woven carbon fiber (most) and with pulse width modulation the clutch isn't just on/off.
i would have to type 2 pages to explain the difference in the 2 systems, so i will just leave my explanation at that.
 
transman731 said:
that would be fine in older transmissions, but in computer controlled trannies, esp chryslers, you wouldn't be able to. any unit that uses a "cvi" (clutch volume index) will set codes if the wrong viscosity fluid is used. it can also create issues with the lock up plates in the converters, today's clutches are designed for specific fluid so that clutch degradation doesn't occur. back in the day when the lock up clutch was made out of actual clutch material, it wasn't an issue. today's clutches are woven carbon fiber (most) and with pulse width modulation the clutch isn't just on/off.
i would have to type 2 pages to explain the difference in the 2 systems, so i will just leave my explanation at that.
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Makes sense. I've never studied AT that much...just know I had issues keeping a th350 together with limited cooler room and my builder told me to run this semi expensive Castrol blue fluid and if I did he would warrant it...5 rides, 4 of which were hard since and so far...knock on wood
 
Can the Trans be too cold? I always heard put the coolers on an AT, but is there a too much of a good thing with temps?

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some fords have temp controlled cooler flow (no flow when cold), some transmissions won't shift into od until operating temp. other than that there is no such thing as too cool.

Fluid Temp VS. Transmission Life Expectancy

175o= 100,000+ miles, 190o= 90,000 miles,
210o (Pressure Drops) = 55,000 miles, 230o (Valves Stick) = 25,000 miles
250o (Varnish Forms) = 17,000 miles, 270o (Seals & Clutches Burn) = 4000 miles
300o + = TRANSMISSION FAILURE
 
transman731 said:
some fords have temp controlled cooler flow (no flow when cold), some transmissions won't shift into od until operating temp. other than that there is no such thing as too cool.

Fluid Temp VS. Transmission Life Expectancy

175o= 100,000+ miles, 190o= 90,000 miles,
210o (Pressure Drops) = 55,000 miles, 230o (Valves Stick) = 25,000 miles
250o (Varnish Forms) = 17,000 miles, 270o (Seals & Clutches Burn) = 4000 miles
300o + = TRANSMISSION FAILURE
Click to expand...
Sweet, always wondered. I drive all manuals, so hasn't been a problem for me. Great info.

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