TTB questions

Exploderpilot

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2005
Location
Winston Salem, NC
I dont own a TTB nor do i have any intention of owning a TTB suspension but I do want to know what makes the TTB so un-desirable.

I have head and seen the cut and turned Beams flex very well with extended radius arms but people still swap out these nice TTB setups for solid axles.

So my question is why dont more people cut and turn thier beams and run extended radius arms instead of dropping more money on a Solid axle swap and having to regear and lock teh front axle?

here is a nice TTB setup i found.

awww.explorer4x4.com_zimfrtrmpsml.jpg


awww.explorer4x4.com_zimramp.jpg


awww.explorer4x4.com_zimmods97.jpg


zimexp.jpg
 
The Zimmerman Explorer didn't last a year before the TTB went all to shit. They put a solid axle under it instead.
 
1. Its still a 44 which in a foolsize and ME isnt a great combo
2. Its not locked/geared so that isnt an advantage
3. The "forced articulation" of a solid axle on the newly cut and turned beams would be subject to long term quality issues
4. I like using the sawzall
 
The axle components of the TTB are pretty comparable to any other straight axle of the same size. The biggest problem is where the axle eye pivot bolts mount to the engine crossmember. My last truck was a 94 F-150 with a six inch lift and 35's. The last time I wheeled it I got stuck not all that bad, but when my buddies truck (79 f150 with 40 inch Ground Hawgs) pulled me out it ripped the engine crossmember where the drop down bracket attached. I can see where having turned the axle halves would give you more strength...But I'll never wheel a TTB truck ever again. Ive got some pictures of the busted crossmember..Ill see if I can find em and get em up.
 
Alignment

DK
 
I have heard of weak axle pivot brackets but also heard that there are stronger ones out there that brace teh x-member and strengthen the overall suspension. Seems to me some cut beams would eliminate the problem though.

Does the alignment problem come from the factory steering system being so odd or are you refferring to the ever changing camber of this setup?
 
Hit a pebble in the road and it's outta alignment


I'll go solid ONE day.....when I do it'll be dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear, but I figure I'll break quite a few parts before I justify the $2k MINIMUM it'll take to so a SAS
 
Exploderpilot said:
I have heard of weak axle pivot brackets but also heard that there are stronger ones out there that brace teh x-member and strengthen the overall suspension. Seems to me some cut beams would eliminate the problem though.

Does the alignment problem come from the factory steering system being so odd or are you refferring to the ever changing camber of this setup?
Click to expand...

Not all TTB lifts are created equal. Some of the axle pivot drop down brackets are flimsy and not attached real well to the crossmember, and can cause the crossmember to crack. I bought the Skyjacker class II kit, because it had the strongest looking brackets. I believe most of my alignment problems were due to the weak stock tie rod and drag link. If I were to have kept wheeling with the TTB, I would have flipped the tie rod ends to the top side of the knuckles, and built heavy duty tie rods and drag link out of 1/4" wall DOM like most people with solid axles do. It wasn't that I was hitting rocks with the rods, but they would bend upon a hard hit with one of the tires. It was common for me to have to adjust my alignment before I could drive home after wheeling. The truck has gone under the knife though and the TTB is no longer.

DK
 
Yeah I agree that not all the drop brackets are the same..mine were rough country...go figure they sucked...I had all the standard alignment problems along with possibly the worst bump steer imaginable. Ive heard the superlift super runner steering kit gets rid of any steering problems, but the 400 dollar price tag wasnt quite in my budget. Ive seen some well built TTB Broncos do really well, but for the cost I'd just as soon get a straight axle truck.
 
I had a lot of bump steer as well. I think flipping the tie rods on top of the knuckles would have helped this. The problem it seemed to me was that the suspension moved down 6" with the lift, but the drop pitman arm only dropped 3.5-3.75". I think it had a similar effect as having a drag link and trac bar at different angles on a vehicle with a solid axle.

DK
 
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