U-Joints

shelby27604

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2013
Location
Efland NC
Two questions.

1. My Ram 2500 needs new U-Joints in the front axle. Moog lists Super Strength and Non-Super strength....the SS version has zerk fittings, I was always told non-greasable are a stronger setup, what am I missing? (Side note, if you have a better suggestion than Moog, lmk....I have been 50/50 with their part quality lately).

2. Has anyone ever dropped axle shafts and U-joints at a shop for replacement? I am still not setup in my garage to do even the most basic of operations (press, vice, a decent table). If I could carry shafts and Joints to the man it would make my day! Fleetpride would be where I would have gone, but I am now out near Mebane and driving to Greensboro for this isn't worth it.
 
Go with greaseable so you won't in the same boat again. If this were a dedicated wheeling rig, err on the side of strength. But for a DD/tow rig, serviceability is more important.
If you're not setup for the aggravation these will be, sub it out. Getting the shafts out can be a major chore if the hub is rusted to the knuckle. If the joints take excessive work to remove, you'll probably need to dress the inside of the shafts to get the clips back on.
I budget 4 hours labor and new hardware when I do them for what it's worth.
 
It is a 3rd gen. I have used the power steering to pop unit bearings out in the past with great success.

I have done 2nd gens and more.than.a handful of jeeps.....I just hate doing it in a place where I don't have the right setup.
 
FWIW, I always go for a Spicer u joints if I can get one.
 
They may be, but the quality is still there. Unlike Moog.
 

Has anyone used a u-joint press like this before? I am wondering if this is some insider secret OR if it is just a great way to bend the yokes on your axle?

Like many, I have used a ball joint press for the super stuck joints, only to bend a yoke......which can be problematic.
 

Has anyone used a u-joint press like this before? I am wondering if this is some insider secret OR if it is just a great way to bend the yokes on your axle?

Like many, I have used a ball joint press for the super stuck joints, only to bend a yoke......which can be problematic.
@Kickdeez may have used one of those.
 

Has anyone used a u-joint press like this before? I am wondering if this is some insider secret OR if it is just a great way to bend the yokes on your axle?

Like many, I have used a ball joint press for the super stuck joints, only to bend a yoke......which can be problematic.
The secret info is a big ass hammer and a good vice. I've changed more than I care to count and I've never had some I couldn't get apart. Actually embarrassed a guy one time who had spent a couple hours and a few different methods trying to get a set of dodge shafts apart, I had the first joint out in less than a minute.

As far as the op question goes; Spicer, Neapco, or AAM are the only joints I would use. I'm a big fan of solid at every location just because 98% of people forget to grease them, the solid joints are better designed (seals are much better), and service life is generally pretty high. If say 150k lifespan is average but I've seen some still have life being changed at 300k miles. Usage and environment plays into the life expectancy as well.

On a side not I'd never recommend a greaseable joint for a wheel joint. Only exception would be if a Spicer life joint was available but even then I'd still go solid.
 

Has anyone used a u-joint press like this before? I am wondering if this is some insider secret OR if it is just a great way to bend the yokes on your axle?

Like many, I have used a ball joint press for the super stuck joints, only to bend a yoke......which can be problematic.
I used a cheap pitman arm puller from HF to remove some joints a couple weeks ago. Same concept as the tool you posted, but a fraction of the price. I had to grind a little off the ears of the puller to fit around my 1480 caps. But it was a breeze.
 
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