Valve springs didn't compress

RubiconBear

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Joined
May 31, 2012
So I put my push rods and rocker arms back on, however I noticed that the passenger side ones are all in the same position. The driver side ones are not, except for 1 & 7 (which is the way the passenger side ones should be). Do I need new valve springs or did I goof something up? I torqued the bolts down to 21 ft/lbs per the fsm.
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Sort of, yeah. Like on cylinder one, since its at tdc, both valves are closed. Other cylinders are at the various stages of one valve being open, following the cam lobes. Those springs would be compressed with the back of the rocker where the push rod is being higher up.
 
Something isn't right. Did you pull the lifters out?


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What motor is it? I'd check to see that the lifters are right. There isn't a spot on the cam that every valve is closed. Either you have a lifter issue or your pushrods are to short or some other weird crap is going on. Maybe lifters need to be primed or pumped up.


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I've found if you filled the lifters with oil before install it'll take a min for push rod to go down it will also cause a false valve lash in some cases! Dunno if that's what happened here tho!
 
What motor is it? I'd check to see that the lifters are right. There isn't a spot on the cam that every valve is closed. Either you have a lifter issue or your pushrods are to short or some other weird crap is going on. Maybe lifters need to be primed or pumped up.


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5.2 magnum in a 95 grand Cherokee. I ordered the lifters/cam from rock auto, so hopefully they're right. The push rods are original. I didn't roll them on the flat concrete in the garage to test the straightness, but they looked good.
I've found if you filled the lifters with oil before install it'll take a min for push rod to go down it will also cause a false valve lash in some cases! Dunno if that's what happened here tho!
I didn't soak them in oil, just coated the roller and the spot where the push rod sits with assembly lube.
Missing rocker pivot?
No, they're all there.
If it's been apart and or you pulled the lifters out the oil has probably drained out of them, assuming they are hydraulic. Fire it up and they will pump back up with oil.
What about cranking it over by hand to very some oil flow?
 
5.2 magnum in a 95 grand Cherokee. I ordered the lifters/cam from rock auto, so hopefully they're right. The push rods are original. I didn't roll them on the flat concrete in the garage to test the straightness, but they looked good.I didn't soak them in oil, just coated the roller and the spot where the push rod sits with assembly lube.No, they're all there.What about cranking it over by hand to very some oil flow?
You won't be able to turn it over fast enough by hand to do any good.

If it's got a distributor driven oil pump, you can spin it with a drill to pick up oil and send it around if you're concerned about dry start.

If you can find a long screwdriver to fit down the dist hole to the oil pump, hook that to a drill and run it for several minutes.


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Do what they have said. ^^
 
Priming it with a drill and screwdriver is gonna be a biotch considering the way the firewall comes up over the back of the motor. Maybe work if you had a 90* attachment for a drill??
 
I was always able to get oil pressure by spinning motor with starter with spark plugs removed
 
I use a junkyard dizzy on sbc stuff I just grind the end down that rotor connects to so it'll go into a drill chuck and bam oil pump primer for $5! And no worries about dropping screwdriver or screwing ya oil pump up...
 
Priming it with a drill and screwdriver is gonna be a biotch considering the way the firewall comes up over the back of the motor. Maybe work if you had a 90* attachment for a drill??
Yeah, there's definitely not enough space for a regular drill and I don't have 90° drill or attachment.
 
Whatever you do ..... don't fire it up.
If you do .... post the video.
With those lifters collapsed, you have parts that should be touching that are now 1/2" away from each other.


Matt
 
@Lizooki
If he's got the plugs out and the fuel deactivated, I don't see it hurting anything. Depending where those lifters sit in the bore, they may not pump up until the motor is spun, but I don't think lifters collapse that much but I've been wrong before.
 
If it's a roller cam it won't make a shit if ya crank it dry no break in on roller cam that iM aware of??? BUT you still have to prime the oil pump with rockers loose Enough to move pushrods up, but all new lifters collapsed like that is sign of no oil in em! This is why I soak em over night in oil so makes valve adj easier!
 
Some hydros have inner springs .... some don't. Cranking it over with the plugs out , disty off,coil unplugged, whatever is one thing.
But firing it up is an entirely different matter.
But then again, hydros my not collapse at all.

Matt
 
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