Water Pressure woes

No fries

No fries

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Joined
Mar 31, 2005
Location
Fort Mill
OK, long story short, my water pressure reducing valve failed over the 21yrs I've lived in the house. Wasn't aware of it until recently after, Dishwasher leaking (had to replace floors), hot water heater pressure relief valve failing and master shower intermittently leaking. (mostly just at night)
The valve is replaced now and was set at 50PSI from factory. I adjusted it to 60 but have seen it as high as 80 since the new valve was installed.
Before replacement it was usually sitting around 90 but I've seen it at 120 and 140!:eek: (gauge from Home depot)

SO now I feel like I am in a Seinfeld episode when I take a shower. What is the highest I can set it without damaging appliances and causing leaking of fixtures?
Showerhead.jpg
 
I bet you used to take some good showers. Probably feels bad now.

Maybe take out the flow restrictor in the shower head/valve. We did ours we use some water. But the showers are nice
 
Yes they suck now.
We have a navy head on the shower, not sure if there is a restriction on it or not.
Just wondering how much pressure is safe for valves and appliances.

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You dont need anything more than 50 psi for a home. 60 MAX

If you're peaking at over 100 you'll have some serious problems exposed very soon

Was your house built in the 90s? If you've got polybutylene piping anywhere go check the meter NOW to be sure you dont have an underground leak.
 
Weve got pex thru out built in 96
It is the original darker red, but I've been told they used the better crimp connectors so we "should" be good.

Pressures are down not except where it comes in the house. I assume it is high cant check it past the valve

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Though I just checked pressure at my utility sink in garage it is at 80.
02556952fc11b35a82635080ab208aeb.jpg


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Right!
Wrong thread lol.
Had to share that! Still laughing

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My plumber won’t cover any pex line brakes if the pressure is over 60. If your on city water you’ll have spikes and lows. Set it at 50


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A buddy of mine kept having his faucet valves die. Then busted a dishwasher line that flooded the kitchen. He checked his pressure at the faucet and it was 120! City water. Bad regulator.
Boy when he got it fixed, his wife was pissed at the change in the shower, lol.

IMO 60 PSI is plenty. We're on a well and top out at 50. I'd love for it to be higher so we could get an awesome shower but would need a new pump etc.
 
Copper lines from 1980, & my reducer is set at 60 [according to gauge]. Plenty Strong! A few years back, city built a new larger & taller water tank. The Warned the users of possible High pressure & gave the date the change would take place. I had my reducer wide open, but only had 40 psi, on the Old water tank. A day before the New tank came on line, I cranked the reducer down, til I saw the 40 psi start to drop. It held, & I gradually upped it to 60 psi.
 
to the op. do you have an expansion tank on the inlet side of the water heater? if your house is older it might not.
the newer reducing valve may have a check valve that won't allow the thermally expanded water to back into the city system (caused when water is heated). the expansion tank gives this expanded water some where to go and smooths out the spikes. these spikes usually happen at night when no water is being used. the newer water meters have a check valve also.
60 lbs is plenty--take the flow restrictor out of your shower head.
 
also while you have the guage on at the wash sink go around the house and open the other faucets one at a time
and see what kind of pressure drop you have at each one. you will know right away which one is the most restricted.
 
also while you have the gauge connected at the washsink go around the house and open the other faucets one at a time and go back and see the pressure drop. this will tell you right away which one is the most restricted.
 
Thanks,
Yes also added the expansion tank immediate after the reduced valve.
I'll ck the pressure drops tonight.

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did you set the pressure on the expansion tank? whatever the static (standing with no open faucets) pressure is that's how much air pressure you need in the tank.
 
I did not install either, paid to have it done. I didn't see him do anything with the expansion tank but I didn't watch the entire time either. How is that adjusted?

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No fries said:
I did not install either, paid to have it done. I didn't see him do anything with the expansion tank but I didn't watch the entire time either. How is that adjusted?

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Click to expand...
It's got a Schader valve like on a tire. You check and adjust air pressure in the bladder prior to applying water pressure. Basically equivalent to a pressure tank on a well system, I believe (however, significantly smaller. Maybe a gallon or two?)
 
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