welders need advise

Mig gloves for the win, but yes at 200 amps she gets hot very fast. Down around 90-130 she seems to stay cool for awhile though.
On that note what thickness material (aluminum) is welded at 200amps vs down around 130?
 
On that note what thickness material (aluminum) is welded at 200amps vs down around 130?
For 1/8” and under, I set it to 150 a and use the pedal.

For 1/8” - 1/4” I set it to 200a and use the pedal.

1/4” and thicker, I set it to 250 a use the pedal.

A lot of times I run more amps in order to put the weld in faster and use larger filler wire to reduce my total weld time, to keep heat soak and warpage to a minimum.

1/4” and above I always always preheat with mapp or acetylene oxy torch.

You can really screw yourself up bad if you don’t have enough amps, bc the puddle won’t form well, and the entire piece will heat soak while the filler tries to stick in the puddle.

Also I may be at full pedal and full panel amps at the start of the weld, and be at 50% pedal at the end of the weld as the pieces get heat soaked.

I don’t get too hung up in the numbers, I just make the weld and move on.
 
For 1/8” and under, I set it to 150 a and use the pedal.

For 1/8” - 1/4” I set it to 200a and use the pedal.

1/4” and thicker, I set it to 250 a use the pedal.

A lot of times I run more amps in order to put the weld in faster and use larger filler wire to reduce my total weld time, to keep heat soak and warpage to a minimum.

1/4” and above I always always preheat with mapp or acetylene oxy torch.

You can really screw yourself up bad if you don’t have enough amps, bc the puddle won’t form well, and the entire piece will heat soak while the filler tries to stick in the puddle.

Also I may be at full pedal and full panel amps at the start of the weld, and be at 50% pedal at the end of the weld as the pieces get heat soaked.

I don’t get too hung up in the numbers, I just make the weld and move on.
Ok now you lost me bro lol, but I get the idea
 
Ok now you lost me bro lol, but I get the idea
Moral of the story, doesn’t really matter what amperage the panel says as you use the foot pedal to deliver the amperage you need.

Turning the panel amps down just gives you higher definition and finer control thru the pedal when you don’t need all the amps.

for 1/8 lap joint or flat butt, I set panel to 150.

For 1/8 inside corner, I’ll set panel to 200, so I can make sure toes are adequately wetting.

For 1/8” outside corner 150, but I’m likely using 100-125a.

So it’s not just thickness that determines setting the amperage on the panel, it’s also joint type.

In other words, on an assembly, im not getting up and going back and forth to the machine to change amps, I pick something higher than what I need and use the foot pedal to control amperage on the fly.

The foot pedal amperage control works just like the gas pedal in a car.
 
Moral of the story, doesn’t really matter what amperage the panel says as you use the foot pedal to deliver the amperage you need.

Turning the panel amps down just gives you higher definition and finer control thru the pedal when you don’t need all the amps.

for 1/8 lap joint or flat butt, I set panel to 150.

For 1/8 inside corner, I’ll set panel to 200, so I can make sure toes are adequately wetting.

For 1/8” outside corner 150, but I’m likely using 100-125a.

So it’s not just thickness that determines setting the amperage on the panel, it’s also joint type.

In other words, on an assembly, im not getting up and going back and forth to the machine to change amps, I pick something higher than what I need and use the foot pedal to control amperage on the fly.

The foot pedal amperage control works just like the gas pedal in a car.
Yep. For me set it high. Romp on that puppy like V8 and no talent. Then when she hit smooth out and crawl that pup down the line with tic tac toe.


Edit.
Are we talking GTAw? I skipped to here after the first post.
 
mine is a Tig Machine too lol but the heck with Tig welding, you know me, I don't have the patience for Tig welding haha (it's hard to slow down Mig when I have to).

Would a Spool Gun for the Hobart 140amp I have totally suck?
Yes.
 

The 210ext is $1649
The 255ext is $2250
The 325ext is $2599
The 350ext is $2899
The water cooler setup is $500

The Lincoln Aspect 375 with water cooler is $11k.

I’ll personally never own another blue product ever again.
I have a Miller Dynasty and buddy of mine has an Everlast.
I'm sure a better welder could tell a difference between the 2 products.

But for a hack like me, I've never felt an ounce of difference when welding.

That said, the pedal and the menus are much more intuitive on the blue machine IMO. And the fan not running constantly is nice.

But if I didn't get the deal I got on my Miller, I'd have a green welder for sure.
 
I have a Miller Dynasty and buddy of mine has an Everlast.
I'm sure a better welder could tell a difference between the 2 products.

But for a hack like me, I've never felt an ounce of difference when welding.

That said, the pedal and the menus are much more intuitive on the blue machine IMO. And the fan not running constantly is nice.

But if I didn't get the deal I got on my Miller, I'd have a green welder for sure.
My biggest issue with the newer dynasty welders, is you have to access hidden menus to get to all the options.

Miller discloses this as to make the front panel more intuitive for low end users and not to clutter the front panel. But how would a low end user even know that the hidden menus and settings exist, or how to get to them, with the hopes of moving forward.

As well, we had 7 dynasty’s, and there was very little consistency between them in terms of how the output is delivered. 3 of the 7 were close to each other, but the other 4 were all over the place.

The longevity of our machines was a joke. They were worked on frequently, with the first ones needing main circuit board, and high frequency boards replaced within the first year.

If you were only purchasing one machine, how would you know if you are getting a good one or a garbage one?

Due to differences from machine to machine, and the amount of repair these needed, all were replaced with Lincoln’s aspect system within 5 years of original purchase.

With 3 out of 7 machines being just ok, it’s hard to recommend that product line given the up front cost compared to other options.

Given those statistics if someone were to purchase new blue equipment, be sure to do so from your local welding dealer rather than online, so that you can have a face to face rep to deal with if any problems arise.

I started tig welding with old Lincoln square wave 275, and mp350’s. Since then, I’ve welded with Lincoln, Miller, esab, harbor freight, longevity, alpha, everlast, and otc.

For me personally, my everlast 255ext has been wonderful and no complaints, other than the fan running non stop. I agree that’s my only complaint.

It fit my budget, and I could replace it several times over before I approach the comparable miller or Lincoln machine cost.

I completely agree that I cannot tell much differences any, in quality/output of it vs others.

I keep referring to that model, 255ext bc it has the option for the advanced wave options and settings including triangular wave form.

As far as generic multiprocess mig/stick/ dc tig, the HF Vulcan is a freaking beast for the price.

I’ve welding with one of those a ton, and co pared it directly against my Lincoln mp210, and there is literally no difference other than price.

I still think esab has the best programming for mig welders that monitor arc voltage to keep output correct and consistent regardless of stickout, gun angle, and position.
 
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My biggest issue with the newer dynasty welders, is you have to access hidden menus to get to all the options.
Miller discloses this as to make the front panel more intuitive for low end users and not to clutter the front panel.

Correct

But how would a low end user even know that the hidden menus and settings exist, or how to get to them, with the hopes of moving forward.

By reading the user manual ????????????????????????????????





As well, we had 7 dynasty’s, and there was very little consistency between them in terms of how the output is delivered. 3 of the 7 were close to each other, but the other 4 were all over the place.

I'm sure it matters in a high end production shop. My welder behaves the same every time I turn it on and it's the only one I can compare it against.
But I trust your experience and expertise a million times over mine so I'm sure it was a problem in your case.

The longevity of our machines was a joke. They were worked on frequently, with the first ones needing main circuit board, and high frequency boards replaced within the first year.

That's how I got mine for so cheap. Bought 2 blown welders off of Craigslist. One had a blown main board, the other one a blown HF board. Made one machine with both. Also bought a BNIB coolmate and a CK torch for a steal from another forum.
Took me 2 years to find what I needed. Took a gamble and it paid off though, I've got less than $1000 in my complete genuine Miller watercooled setup.

I know if the board goes again it would almost be cheaper to buy a green welder instead of replacing the parts in mine. I'm on the lookout for another good board or HF unit.

If you were only purchasing one machine, how would you know if you are getting a good one or a garbage one?

Due to differences from machine to machine, and the amount of repair these needed, all were replaced with Lincoln’s aspect system within 5 years of original purchase.

With 3 out of 7 machines being just ok, it’s hard to recommend that product line given the up front cost compared to other options.

I had a guy wayyyy better than me lay down a bead with it and it looked like titties and rainbows. When my machine makes shit welds it's def the torch handling device (me) and not the welder that's bad.
In your case (Production) it makes sense.

I started tig welding with old Lincoln square wave 275, and mp350’s. Since then, I’ve welded with Lincoln, Miller, esab, harbor freight, longevity, alpha, everlast, and otc.

I've been lucky to TIG weld on a bunch of different machines as well.
They all weld the same for me. 'cause I'm not that great.

The only ones I could tell a diff was an old 330st Aircrafter and a Dynasty 700. The shear power that's available under your foot is unreal. The old transformer machine had the nicest arc I've experienced in DC.

I still think esab has the best programming for mig welders that monitor arc voltage to keep output correct and consistent regardless of stickout, gun angle, and position.

Agreed 100%. I regret buying my Miller 211. It does the job but I'm NOT impressed by it. And it spatters like a MOFO.
The Esab units I used at BKOR are far superior.
The 210mp I used at BentFab was great too, but he's had a shit ton of issues with it.

If I had to get another MIG, for my hobby use I'd probably look at a Vulcan...
 
Wow tons of info being dished out here.
I wish I had one of you guys here to show me what this Lincoln 350mp can really do with all the different settings it has. Something tells me it could even Mig better than its currently doing if I knew what all the gizmos were/terms/parameters but my reading the manual becomes jibberish lol so I stuck it on weld mode 5 and never touched it.
I love it, it's a beast, actually way overkill for my needs haha
 
The only ones I could tell a diff was an old 330st Aircrafter and a Dynasty 700. The shear power that's available under your foot is unreal. The old transformer machine had the nicest arc I've experienced in DC.
This got me excited. Like school boy and hustler mags.

But yes enven a Syncrowave feels different. I always compare a transformer to big block v8 muscle and a Dynasty to a revved up obnoxious 4 banger on a turbo and juice. Just isn't the same arc and power.
 

2021 Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT Digital AC/DC TIG Stick Pulse Inverter Welder 110v/220v Dual Voltage​

This what you guys talking about? All in one machine?
 
61SuDFeDgQL._AC_SL1080_.jpg



the front of this thing already stresses me out and I don't even have one LOL
On a side note, Is there a comparable machine that will Mig Weld and Tig AC/DC in one instead of Stick and TIG? I'd rather buy a new machine that can Tig and Mig and then I can get rid of this big Lincoln
 
What you guys think of this Unit...this seems to do everything I would want

2021 LightningMTS 225 Welder AC/DC TIG with PULSE/MIG/Stick 200 Amp Dual Voltage 110v/220v​



Digital IGBT Inverter
  • MIG / AC/DC TIG / Stick / Spool Gun
  • 60% Duty Cycle @ 200 Amp AC/DC TIG | Dual Voltage 110v/220v
  • Adjustable MIG / Stick Arc Force | 8" spool (10 to 12 lbs)
  • Save up to 9 programs and 15 Series Euro fast connect MIG gun
 
I think you are better with 2 machines. It's like having a printer, scanner, copier, fax.... they will do the job, but there is a compromise. Also, if you have one go down, you will still have a welder.
good point, that would suck big time...back to drawing board...AHAHAHA (I'm literally going back to drawing board for a custom firepit)
 
I picked this baby up off the book of faces about a month ago. Never really tig welded but have always wanted to learn. All I have to say is I really enjoy running this machine. I have watched alot of the fabricator series and weld dot com video and have been playing with aluminum coupons running their practice sets.
20211030_182936.jpg
 
I’d get a good stick/tig rig and then a separate mig. A stick/tig works fantastic, but the mig part you will never be happy with. It’s easier and cheaper in the long run, in my opinion, to have 2 setups. Like said earlier, if one goes down, you still have another.

Edit: look into Kicking Horse. Cheap and pretty good.
 
Since we're kinda on the topic...why does no one make a MIG/plasma combo? Or do they? I would buy that.
 
Since we're kinda on the topic...why does no one make a MIG/plasma combo? Or do they? I would buy that.
Everlast does..I was just looking at them last week.
Gonna wait to make my decision on this, I got some serious issues going on
 
I’m not sure how that would work out…I understand its similar in a way but apples to orange. What say ye injuneir? Is it possible?
One is constant voltage, the other is constant current. It's possible, but complicated, and would certainly have some compromises, but seems a hell of a lot more useful than a TIG plasma combo. How many times have we all sat around and thought "hmm, I'll carefully and precisely cut that section of toob off and clean and fit and prep and backpurge and carefully and meticulously TIG it back in place just a little to the right so I can fit my new LED light bar"
Vs
"Damn, that's in the way of where I want to put my Do It for Dale sticker...cut that shit off, scoot it over, and burn it back on."
 
One is constant voltage, the other is constant current. It's possible, but complicated, and would certainly have some compromises, but seems a hell of a lot more useful than a TIG plasma combo. How many times have we all sat around and thought "hmm, I'll carefully and precisely cut that section of toob off and clean and fit and prep and backpurge and carefully and meticulously TIG it back in place just a little to the right so I can fit my new LED light bar"
Vs
"Damn, that's in the way of where I want to put my Do It for Dale sticker...cut that shit off, scoot it over, and burn it back on."
It’s going to be a process switch (stick to tig lead swap). Handy of course, but too much for one machine to do practically in my opinion at the moment. I’ll research it more later and maybe work on a schematic of sorts on how it will work, but I still stand at the stick/tig, mig, plasma 3 rig setup. 3 pieces of equipment work better individually than 1 machine doing it all.

I’m not saying it can’t be done, I’m just having a hard time seeing it. Going back to the copier/fax/scanner/3D printer thing.
 
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