Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
Mig gloves for the win, but yes at 200 amps she gets hot very fast. Down around 90-130 she seems to stay cool for awhile though.Yeah, that bastard gets hot fast!
Mig gloves for the win, but yes at 200 amps she gets hot very fast. Down around 90-130 she seems to stay cool for awhile though.Yeah, that bastard gets hot fast!
On that note what thickness material (aluminum) is welded at 200amps vs down around 130?Mig gloves for the win, but yes at 200 amps she gets hot very fast. Down around 90-130 she seems to stay cool for awhile though.
Rule of thumb is 1 amp per .001" of material, so 1/8" is 125 amps.On that note what thickness material (aluminum) is welded at 200amps vs down around 130?
For 1/8” and under, I set it to 150 a and use the pedal.On that note what thickness material (aluminum) is welded at 200amps vs down around 130?
Ok now you lost me bro lol, but I get the ideaFor 1/8” and under, I set it to 150 a and use the pedal.
For 1/8” - 1/4” I set it to 200a and use the pedal.
1/4” and thicker, I set it to 250 a use the pedal.
A lot of times I run more amps in order to put the weld in faster and use larger filler wire to reduce my total weld time, to keep heat soak and warpage to a minimum.
1/4” and above I always always preheat with mapp or acetylene oxy torch.
You can really screw yourself up bad if you don’t have enough amps, bc the puddle won’t form well, and the entire piece will heat soak while the filler tries to stick in the puddle.
Also I may be at full pedal and full panel amps at the start of the weld, and be at 50% pedal at the end of the weld as the pieces get heat soaked.
I don’t get too hung up in the numbers, I just make the weld and move on.
Moral of the story, doesn’t really matter what amperage the panel says as you use the foot pedal to deliver the amperage you need.Ok now you lost me bro lol, but I get the idea
Yep. For me set it high. Romp on that puppy like V8 and no talent. Then when she hit smooth out and crawl that pup down the line with tic tac toe.Moral of the story, doesn’t really matter what amperage the panel says as you use the foot pedal to deliver the amperage you need.
Turning the panel amps down just gives you higher definition and finer control thru the pedal when you don’t need all the amps.
for 1/8 lap joint or flat butt, I set panel to 150.
For 1/8 inside corner, I’ll set panel to 200, so I can make sure toes are adequately wetting.
For 1/8” outside corner 150, but I’m likely using 100-125a.
So it’s not just thickness that determines setting the amperage on the panel, it’s also joint type.
In other words, on an assembly, im not getting up and going back and forth to the machine to change amps, I pick something higher than what I need and use the foot pedal to control amperage on the fly.
The foot pedal amperage control works just like the gas pedal in a car.
Yes.mine is a Tig Machine too lol but the heck with Tig welding, you know me, I don't have the patience for Tig welding haha (it's hard to slow down Mig when I have to).
Would a Spool Gun for the Hobart 140amp I have totally suck?
I have a Miller Dynasty and buddy of mine has an Everlast.
The 210ext is $1649
The 255ext is $2250
The 325ext is $2599
The 350ext is $2899
The water cooler setup is $500
The Lincoln Aspect 375 with water cooler is $11k.
I’ll personally never own another blue product ever again.
My biggest issue with the newer dynasty welders, is you have to access hidden menus to get to all the options.I have a Miller Dynasty and buddy of mine has an Everlast.
I'm sure a better welder could tell a difference between the 2 products.
But for a hack like me, I've never felt an ounce of difference when welding.
That said, the pedal and the menus are much more intuitive on the blue machine IMO. And the fan not running constantly is nice.
But if I didn't get the deal I got on my Miller, I'd have a green welder for sure.
My biggest issue with the newer dynasty welders, is you have to access hidden menus to get to all the options.
Miller discloses this as to make the front panel more intuitive for low end users and not to clutter the front panel.
But how would a low end user even know that the hidden menus and settings exist, or how to get to them, with the hopes of moving forward.
As well, we had 7 dynasty’s, and there was very little consistency between them in terms of how the output is delivered. 3 of the 7 were close to each other, but the other 4 were all over the place.
The longevity of our machines was a joke. They were worked on frequently, with the first ones needing main circuit board, and high frequency boards replaced within the first year.
If you were only purchasing one machine, how would you know if you are getting a good one or a garbage one?
Due to differences from machine to machine, and the amount of repair these needed, all were replaced with Lincoln’s aspect system within 5 years of original purchase.
With 3 out of 7 machines being just ok, it’s hard to recommend that product line given the up front cost compared to other options.
I started tig welding with old Lincoln square wave 275, and mp350’s. Since then, I’ve welded with Lincoln, Miller, esab, harbor freight, longevity, alpha, everlast, and otc.
I still think esab has the best programming for mig welders that monitor arc voltage to keep output correct and consistent regardless of stickout, gun angle, and position.
This got me excited. Like school boy and hustler mags.The only ones I could tell a diff was an old 330st Aircrafter and a Dynasty 700. The shear power that's available under your foot is unreal. The old transformer machine had the nicest arc I've experienced in DC.
good point, that would suck big time...back to drawing board...AHAHAHA (I'm literally going back to drawing board for a custom firepit)I think you are better with 2 machines. It's like having a printer, scanner, copier, fax.... they will do the job, but there is a compromise. Also, if you have one go down, you will still have a welder.
I’m not sure how that would work out…I understand its similar in a way but apples to orange. What say ye injuneir? Is it possible?Since we're kinda on the topic...why does no one make a MIG/plasma combo? Or do they? I would buy that.
Everlast does..I was just looking at them last week.Since we're kinda on the topic...why does no one make a MIG/plasma combo? Or do they? I would buy that.
One is constant voltage, the other is constant current. It's possible, but complicated, and would certainly have some compromises, but seems a hell of a lot more useful than a TIG plasma combo. How many times have we all sat around and thought "hmm, I'll carefully and precisely cut that section of toob off and clean and fit and prep and backpurge and carefully and meticulously TIG it back in place just a little to the right so I can fit my new LED light bar"I’m not sure how that would work out…I understand its similar in a way but apples to orange. What say ye injuneir? Is it possible?
It’s going to be a process switch (stick to tig lead swap). Handy of course, but too much for one machine to do practically in my opinion at the moment. I’ll research it more later and maybe work on a schematic of sorts on how it will work, but I still stand at the stick/tig, mig, plasma 3 rig setup. 3 pieces of equipment work better individually than 1 machine doing it all.One is constant voltage, the other is constant current. It's possible, but complicated, and would certainly have some compromises, but seems a hell of a lot more useful than a TIG plasma combo. How many times have we all sat around and thought "hmm, I'll carefully and precisely cut that section of toob off and clean and fit and prep and backpurge and carefully and meticulously TIG it back in place just a little to the right so I can fit my new LED light bar"
Vs
"Damn, that's in the way of where I want to put my Do It for Dale sticker...cut that shit off, scoot it over, and burn it back on."