Well pumps

DAWGTOY said:
sorry man i didn't understand that you had a gauge on the system.
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No worries. A lot of data being thrown around in here.
 
Yep, code is 80psi, and most plumbing stuff is rated at 90-100psi. I've heard of Charlotte being as high as 130psi. When I lived in Charlotte, every hose nozzle leaked, but it was like a pressure washer when you pulled the trigger :D
 
Ours has been 50-70 for years. Moved into our new house which had a 20-40. I was at Castevens before we got unpacked and had that fixed the first night.
 
Ok, did a little more observation tonight. Switch is cutting on at 50psi and cutting off at 70psi. Tank still has 48 psi in it when the well is at 50. With a faucet running in the house, it took 67 seconds to drop from 70psi to 50psi, and then 75 seconds to get from 50psi back to 70 psi. With the water hose on, it quickly dropped from 70psi to 50psi, and then fell off a cliff down to about 30psi where it remained and never really got beyond about 33 psi. With everything closed off it was about 40 seconds from 50psi to 70psi.
 
Volume. Worn impeller? Possibly also under size pump considering your running much over the typical 30-50. Therefore Id say drop you pressure switch to 30/50 and it'll behave more nicely.. without changing the pump.. if you like pressure, upgrade the pump, your making it work hard to get up to 70, which will shorten it's life. (Volume drops as pressure rises, like with all pumps) ideally the pump constantly delivers while in use to lower cycle count @ WOT. Tank prevents short cycling and water hammer on part throttle. But hey I'm not a plumber. I was supposed to be a ece though.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Ok, did a little more observation tonight. Switch is cutting on at 50psi and cutting off at 70psi. Tank still has 48 psi in it when the well is at 50. With a faucet running in the house, it took 67 seconds to drop from 70psi to 50psi, and then 75 seconds to get from 50psi back to 70 psi. With the water hose on, it quickly dropped from 70psi to 50psi, and then fell off a cliff down to about 30psi where it remained and never really got beyond about 33 psi. With everything closed off it was about 40 seconds from 50psi to 70psi.
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50-70 is pretty high from all of the wells that I've seen. Could it be that you're running it at it's jagged edge? Maybe reset to 40-60 and see if it recovers better? I hate adjusting those switches and usually just have to replace them when there's trouble...
 
jeepinmatt said:
I think some are in excess of 100 psi.
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They are definitely not. You'll see higher than that at the main, but your PRV should knock it down to 50 or so.

Over 100 in the residence will void the warranty of every device on the system.
 
shawn said:
They are definitely not. You'll see higher than that at the main, but your PRV should knock it down to 50 or so.

Over 100 in the residence will void the warranty of every device on the system.
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Maybe in Architect dream world, but there are plenty of older houses on city water and no PRV.
 
shawn said:
They are definitely not. You'll see higher than that at the main, but your PRV should knock it down to 50 or so.

Over 100 in the residence will void the warranty of every device on the system.
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A friend of mine (on city water) was having devices fail left and right. We measured the pressure on his system and it was around 95-100 psi.
The PRV had failed. Was supposed to be 60. New PRV and no problems w/ anything since.
 
When I was on a well, I ran it about 60 psi, which I Liked! Moved to Mount Holly, City water, & had 40 psi. PRV was wide open, so I got used to it. City built a New Water Tower at the top of a hill I can see from my house. Notices were sent out Before they switched over about HIGH Pressure! My PRV went to 80!, I screwed it back down to 60. Happy Again!:D
 
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