rockcity
everyday is a chance to get better
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2005
- Location
- Greenville, NC
Curious what specifically this means...cheap materials/labor and ‘miserable with’. I know diddly about home building...ignorance is bliss. But id imagine cheaping out for the sake of margins isn’t a new concept...just that the cheap shit has been fixed/replaced some time in the last 30-40 years. We looked at everything from the $200-500k range, brand new to 100 years old. Yeah the 100 year old house ‘felt’ more solid, but it also had crooked door frames...haha. Only other things I noticed in any of them was the intricacy in the mouldings, hollow core doors or not and whatever ‘pretty stuff’ the wife told me to look at. Beyond that, I couldn’t have told the difference outside of how outdated a house was. Just trying to gauge financial requirements for actually building...if it’s going to cost me 30-50% more to build exactly what I bought, plus an even higher premium for ‘quality’...that’s insane.
Edit...I guess what I’m getting at is, does it matter. Like the insulation thread...is an extra $2500 for ‘good’ insulation worth it...does it pay off in the end, maybe not. I wouldn’t have even thought about raising the question about what kinda insulation I should use. If you’re talking about falling through the floor...I get it.
You can make anything look pretty. To the untrained eye, cabinets can look nearly identical but can be made from 1/2”, 5/8”, 3/4” plywood, or even MDF. They can or can’t have dovetail construction. They can be heat transferred wraps on them or painted or stained. There are several levels of granite counter tops; all granite is not the same...
It’s easy for an electrician to use #16 wire when he really should be using #14 or even #12.
Did they use 1/2” or 5/8” or 3/4” gypsum? Did they use green board in bathrooms or not? Did they use prime, #2, or #3 studs? Is the moulding mdf or real wood? Are the studs at 12” OC or 16”? Is thebinsulation really R19 or R12? Was it installed correctly? Is the shower door framed, semi frameless, or frameless? Was the floor reinforced or joists spaced correctly to provide enough support for the added weight of tile in the bathroom? Was insulation installed on interior walls for some sound dampening? We’re hollow core doors used? Are the “brass” fixtures or hinges cheap or are they solid brass fixtures? Is the “hardwood” floor pre-finished 1/2” thick, 2.5” width boards or are they heart pine wide planks and finished on site? What type of shingles? 15-yr, 20-yr, 30-yr?
Point is, tract homes are where builders cut as many corners as possible. A “custom” or semi-custom home will usually be built with materials that are of better quality and with some better thought and labor put into it.
Comparing square ft to square foot between tract homes and a semi/custom home, you will get more house for the $ with a tract home. But you give up quality and usually are trendy for 15 years. Then you have to deal with a house that is a POS and extremely dated.
It’s no secret that tract homes are the most cheaply built form of single family house you can buy.
When I say “miserable”, I mean you’ll hear floor squeak, inefficient heating/cooling, crappy carpet and padding, continuous maintenance repairing cheap materials, screw/nail pock marks in drywall, wavy walls and ceilings, and probably moisture issues due to poor general construction practices and shortcuts.
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