What about compounds? Anyone running a set?

[Clubbs]

Considering a compound turbo setup for the cummins. Keep the factory VGT turbo then add a 480ish to it. First do head studs, valve springs, and push rods to handle the boost.

Don't see much down side to it. Lower EGT, more power, faster spool, big turbo for high rpm, all the things needed for more fuel adds later. I suppose the charge air cooler could heat soak the radiator and coolant temps could get higher, but this thing seems to be immune to heat build up even pulling hills towing.

I would think it would require a different ezlynk tune file but I don't see anyone advertising compound tunes - maybe it's smart enough to compensate on its own???

Anyone running two turbskis on a 4th Gen ram?

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I sold a 3rd gen last year about this time that I owned about 15 years. Was running a 57 and 72 mm. With a 15% over 6.7 cp3 it made 600/1250 to the tire and ran out of pump. You will not be disappointed in how it pulls. Also still have a 1st gen p-pump truck running a 62/75 setup and folks are surprised how it runs and pulls. My 3rd gen would still get 20mpg tuned for the above HP

 

[CLRracer]

Are you looking at a kit or going to put something together yourself?

Duane

 

[Clubbs]

Are you looking at a kit or going to put something together yourself?

Duane

Kits right now. Aurora is super pricey and I can't figure out why from website shopping. DPS seems to have the most figured out and actual engineering behind it and a decent price. Pusher is also pricey. BMP is by far the best price.

Looks like it would be relatively simple to put it together myself, but it would require a couple weeks of downtime and ordering/fabbing components without a kit. But I would need to get this put together over a weekend... Or daily the CJ 150 miles a day to work while I figured out bends, flanges, and fittings.

Either way keeping the stock turbo and then adding a 475 or 480ish to it.

Struggling with why I need the 625 ARP studs for $1600 vs the standard ARP's for $550. The standard 2000's have a 220k tensile strength and the 625 hi performance studs have a 260k tensile strength.

In my experience the tensile strength spec is a minimum spec so all the standards have at least 220k. So are the 625's just hype or is there actual value in spending the extra grand for 18% more tensile strength?

Either way Ive got to do this in stages for cash flow reasons. First stage is studs, valve springs and push rods, then compounds which will be a sizable performance improvement, but will be fuel limited, which injectors and pump upgrades would be phase 3. So I need the studs to be able to support 750ish HP. I think I can do that without issue with the 220k tensile strength studs, but everything I read by the flatbill experts suggest you have to have the 625's for everything... Where's the science?

 

[83oldyoda4x4]

Do you have a reputable tuner you can rely on?

 

[Clubbs]

Not yet. I don't know how much tuning is mandatory or if it's a dial it in sort of thing. Running a sotf CCS set of tunes now.

Open to any tuning suggestions

 

[LumberjackLloyd]

Nothing valuable to add here, but...

I had a buddy with an 05 cummins with compound turbos. He got a lot of life out of that truck and the only issue he had was snapping TC input shafts.

That and a f1x/lsx 454 Camaro are the two things that have scared the #$%& out of me.

 

[83oldyoda4x4]

I would think a reputable tuner would be pretty important trying to reach those power levels, I have seen some hold 500hp (stock turbo) hold up on stock head studs. and i have seen them blow a head gasket with a small tow tune. MiniMax was notorious back when the 4th gens came out.

 

[Croatan_Kid]

The regular ARPs will be fine. I've been shoving 57 lbs in my First Gen motor on stock head bolts and head gasket for 15 years. Different animal, but I digress.

S480, for sure. Even better with a forged compressor wheel. The flow is much better vs an S475. Since you're doing studs/springs/pushrods, I will always suggest a cam while you're at it. With a compound setup, you can actually drop boost (resistance) and gain power from the extra air flow and efficiency.

As for tuning, here ya go. I've got two trucks tuned by Dominic when he worked for Starlite. Good stuff and he knows how to keep stuff from breaking...if you want him to do that.

Absolutely, yes, it will require very specific tuning. There's a lot more air getting shoved in it and the fueling needs to be dialed in.

 

[Clubbs]

Wasn't planning on pulling the head for this phase. Isnt that required for the cam swap? As usuall I'm on a budget too ya know...

 

[Croatan_Kid]

Nope! Just have to hold the lifters/tappets up. On the newer trucks, I see most folks use magnets. Older ones like mine, a 1/2" wooden dowel with a bevel and a slot works perfect. I still have that fancy lifter tray tool too. I did a Hamilton 181/210. They're not terribly expensive. Even a small one is a lotttt better than stock!